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just dont hook up the lockup wire, seems simpler.
A friend on Moparts said he had to change out the input shaft and pump so he could run a 727 converter.
Hey want to make another trans crossmember mount?? Lol I will be installing a 360 magnum and A-518 in my 73 dart sport.
Sorry Bro, I can't. I relocated from Connecticut to North Carolina about a year and a half ago and currently don't have a garage or shop to work in. Back up north I had a fully equipped four car garage and was fabricating all kinds of things for people and their cars. Hopefully I'll be putting up a new steel building in a couple of years. Thanks for asking.
Damn I am always a day to late. Lol but thanks for responding back. Best wishes on the new move
for the time being I wish to just hook mine to a toggle. the connector from the trans has 3 wires coming out. how do I determine which wire goes where? do I hook both the overdrive and the lock up to the same toggle to work at the same time? trying to get this car finished in time for mopars at the strip lol. time is slipping by way to fast
If you put switched 12v on the center pin and use the other two terminals for switches inside the car you can use the switches to ground or unground the solenoids in the trans for OD and lockup. You don't want both coming on at the same time though. Run your 2 separate wires now, so you have it later. OD will ONLY come on after the trans is in 3rd gear, but lockup will come on any time at any speed if it's switch is on, and will even kill the engine if it's on when you come to a stop. Lets say you have the OD switch on as you are upshifting through the gears normally. When 3rd engages OD will come on about 1 second later. If you run two wires into the cabin from the connector on the trans you can manually choose when each comes on gets turned off. I have mine set up to run trans pressure off of the governor port, and that pressure switches two adjustable fuel pressure safety switches. (One for OD and one for lockup) There are also two switches inside the car that bypass the ground for the relays that control the solenoids for each so I can disable OD or lockup either one or both. This allows me to leave both switches on all the time if I want and let the trans tell the solenoids when to activate each via gov pressure (wheel speed) If I leave both switches in the "Auto" position the trans automatically shifts at the set speeds via the pressure switches. This makes it shift 1-2-3-OD-Lockup completely automatically with OD coming on at 55mph and lockup at 75mph. When I let off the gas and let it start slowing down, lockup automatically comes off at 75 and OD at 55 without having to do or touch anything. If I turn both switches "Off" then it shifts just like a normal 904 or 727 three speed. Right now all you need is two wires running into the cabin to two switches so you can ground or unground the two solenoids separately. I can help with the full auto stuff later when you are ready. For now you can ignore all the stuff about the LED indicators in the connector pic.
thank you thank you thank you!!! I definitely want to do the rest to make it automatic but right now time is not my friend.
Trailbeast, would it be advisable to convert an A500 to non-LU(lockup)? I have an A999 that I rebuilt with a cheetah stage 2 valvebody and converted to non-LU that I can pull parts from. I'm asking is because I have a 360 that I'm trying to push into 400hp range. Will a lockup handle this?
I hear ya. I have all the part numbers for the switches and can describe how I ran and routed things, then you can decide how you want to do yours. The governor pressure is plumbed of the governor pressure test port on the rear of the trans and steel cooler line runs up the back of the motor to a bracket on the back of my intake. This makes it so I can set shift speeds from under the hood instead of under the car like most kits.
I would have to say it depends on your gearing. With my car by the time it's going into lockup I'm doing already doing 75-80 and I'm lifting off the throttle to get my cruise speed. My motor is about 350-400 and I don't have any problems with it, and we have to remember these were truck transmissions rated for towing 6,000 pounds on top of the trucks being 1,000 lbs heavier. I turn OD and lockup both off if I'm getting into it that hard and then switch them back to "auto" mode when I'm done. I take it the hollow lockup shaft is your concern?
That would be correct sir. So your saying it would be fine then? If I'm going to rebuild one, I'm definitely going to use the "performance" kit with kolene steels and red eagle clutches.
All I can tell you for sure is that I have been running mine for almost 10 months with some high gears in the rear and a stage 2 shift kit and have done some real hard second gear full throttle shifts and burnouts as long as half a block. Seems fine.
it'll handle it. I'm hitting one with almost 600hp. I had my input and hub cryoed, just to give it a bit more strength. Currently running 4.56s and have hit it hard through all the gears. Lockup is not necessary, but even in lockup, it holds just fine. Just don't hit lockup under extreme throttle/acceleration, it is only a single disk.
Yep, I see no reason to hit OD or lockup either one with a bunch of power. Those are engine and fuel saving gears.
Hi guys. Im currently into a long build of my Aussie Valiant version of the 69 Dart and I am thinking of going with a 42RH. As this trans is not very common here is Oz at all, could someone give me an idea of where I could locate one in the US to then sea freight it over to Oz? Thanks for any help Paul
When I did mine I opted to swap my non lock-up input shaft onto the hub, I didn't want to put a bunch of power through it with big hole down the middle of the shaft for a 200-300rpm drop, didn't seem worth picking chunks out of my oil pan and valve body over. Plus the converter is about $400 cheaper when you get a 'good one' like I did. YMMV. I've been really happy with my swap over the last few years!
Thanks for the info so far, great thread. Is there a build thread, I didn't seem to find one. I would like to go to overdrive trans. My choices are an A500 (40RH/42RH) or a GM TH200–4R. Preferring to keep it MoPar, and avoid the costs w/ the 200 (adapters, shifter, etc.) Since the 42RH is essentially a 904, will the Turbo Action Cheetah full manual reverse pattern valve body from my 904 work with the 42RH? US Car Tool now makes a crossmember adapter for the A518. Are the mounting points for the 518 and the 500/42 in the same locations so I can avoid the fabrication part? Since the O/D and L/U are electric, I assume my old Hurst Pro-Matic 2 will still work, yes/no?
The RH/RE transmissions must have a designed for valve body. (Solenoids for LU/ OD are part of the VB) I believe your shifter is fine
Bummer and cool. Thank you, glad to see you back posting.
Can you run the 42RH with a stock 3 speed console mounted shifter? What mods to the shifter would you need to do to install it.
I had the same question...
I was thinking it would be cool to hide the O/D switch in the console. Dont smoke, so was going to pop off the round metal cap, and add a power port, and sheetmetal over the ashtray hole. That would be the perfect spot for a stock light up mopar O/D switch.
I never used a stock shifter on mine, but all you would need to do is fab a mount for the bottom of the vertical shaft that goes through the floor. The factory bracket coming off the trans housing would not be usable with the a-500. The rod from the shifter to the trans lever may be different too but that should be easy to fab. Cley