440 4speed hydraulic clutch

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74duster

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I am starting to test fit my 440 4speed stuff prior to putting them in the Duster. I have tri y headers and they dump right in front of the clutch fork. This leaves no room for clutch linkage. I would like to use this set of headers, so that seems to put me in the market for a hydraulic clutch setup.
If anyone is using a hydraulic clutch for this application, can you pass on some info? Who is the supplier, how much does it cost, how difficult is the install, etc.:dontknow:
 
I don't knowwhat you want your car to be... a show car, or a driver or what. I have my 1970 440 duster 4 spd with clutch linkage. The only part that you can use from the A body clutch linkage is the ball stud on the inner fender. You will have to get a clutch kit from brewers performance to make ANY clutch linkage work...or you will have to make up your own. also this opnly works with three bellhousings. and only 10.5 inch ones. if you have a bigger bell, the kit won't work for you.

I don't know what headers I have in my car, because they came with the car when I bought it. ( they weren't in the car though...bought it as a shell) I think that they are either these headers http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/Mazzolini.shtml
or these ones
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/BBody.shtml
there is NO part number anywhere. I did have to dent them a bit to make them fit...but they work well in the car with the Clutch linkage from brewers performance.its on this page third one down
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?id=105


Either way you go, your going to fork out some $$$. you can either keep you headers, and get a hydraulic clutch set up, or you can return your expensive headers, buy some cheaper ones, and get them to fit, and buy/make clutch linkage. whatever you choose, make sure you are 100% sure thatis what you want. Personally I don't like the Idea of hydraulic. I think it looks silly under the hood of a car that it never came with, your wrecking the fire wall, and it doesn't respond like an old car. Thats just me though.

You can see the set up and everything on my forum
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33454

if you want picks, just ask

Phil
 
'64 Cuda said:
Just found this. Might help a lot of people out. The seller has a restoration shop. There's some nice stuff on his website.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170216079042&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007
Click to expand...

i figured that out about 3 years ago. did it for less than 1/2 of what that guy is charging. all the parts are available at summit. mcleod sells a clutch kit that uses a hydraulic to bearing but its big $$$


http://www.mcleodind.com/downloads/prod_guide_PDFs/Page_6.pdf

http://www.mcleodind.com/downloads/prod_guide_PDFs/Page_10.pdf

shifter linkage & slave cylinder 2.jpg
 
Sweatybetty- I like what you have done with this, but still have a couple of questions. For one, it looks like your clutch fork has been shortened. If so, how much? Also, how did you make the connection from clutch pedal to master cylinder? Do you have any pics of that part of the install?
Any info would really be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
 
74duster said:
Sweatybetty- I like what you have done with this, but still have a couple of questions. For one, it looks like your clutch fork has been shortened. If so, how much? Also, how did you make the connection from clutch pedal to master cylinder? Do you have any pics of that part of the install?
Any info would really be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
Click to expand...

Rob, the fork is one i had in a pile of parts that was used for mock-up. im not sure how much it has been shortened.
heres a pic of the under dash linkage. i made the part but there is probably a better way..

clutch pedal linkage 2.jpg
 
Very nice! I think I'm going to give this a try!:-D
Thank you for the info and pics!
 
That's good, too. Although I like having the pull cylinder mounted behind the fork. Where my header dumps doesn't give me much room in front of the fork to play with. And even if it would fit in there, it would be subjected to a lot of heat because of the header position.
 
I did a slave mount like sweaty betty on my Dart . It has 2" fenderwell headers
so I didnt want the master on the firewall because of the heat and I did not
want to mount the master at a down ward angle. what I did was mount the
master to the inner frame rail directly across from the transmission.I shortened
my old z bar to the width of the frame rail, filled the tube with a full length
nylon bushing and used a long bolt supported by brackets welded to the
inside and outside of the frame rail. I welded a lever to the z bar tube on the
inside which operates a push rod to the master. Kind of Rube Goldberg but it
works good.
 
baumtruck said:
I did a slave mount like sweaty betty on my Dart . It has 2" fenderwell headers
so I didnt want the master on the firewall because of the heat and I did not
want to mount the master at a down ward angle. what I did was mount the
master to the inner frame rail directly across from the transmission.I shortened
my old z bar to the width of the frame rail, filled the tube with a full length
nylon bushing and used a long bolt supported by brackets welded to the
inside and outside of the frame rail. I welded a lever to the z bar tube on the
inside which operates a push rod to the master. Kind of Rube Goldberg but it
works good.
Click to expand...

Got any pictures of that?
 
baumtruck said:
I did a slave mount like sweaty betty on my Dart . It has 2" fenderwell headers
so I didnt want the master on the firewall because of the heat and I did not
want to mount the master at a down ward angle. what I did was mount the
master to the inner frame rail directly across from the transmission.I shortened
my old z bar to the width of the frame rail, filled the tube with a full length
nylon bushing and used a long bolt supported by brackets welded to the
inside and outside of the frame rail. I welded a lever to the z bar tube on the
inside which operates a push rod to the master. Kind of Rube Goldberg but it
works good.
Click to expand...

Just curious why you went with a hydraulic clutch. Was it for an easier pedal? I thought most of the people here using a hydraulic clutch are doing it because of clearance issues with the standard clutch linkage & under chassis headers (I may be wrong:-D). I know that with my fenderwell headers I have no clearance problems with a mechanical clutch linkage & 10 1/2" clutch, but I would love to patch the holes in my fenderwells & run an under chassis headers. It's just that the headers for the early A are really expensive & don't like to fit with a 10 1/2" clutch.
 
'64 Cuda said:
Just curious why you went with a hydraulic clutch. Was it for an easier pedal? I thought most of the people here using a hydraulic clutch are doing it because of clearance issues with the standard clutch linkage & under chassis headers (I may be wrong:-D). I know that with my fenderwell headers I have no clearance problems with a mechanical clutch linkage & 10 1/2" clutch, but I would love to patch the holes in my fenderwells & run an under chassis headers. It's just that the headers for the early A are really expensive & don't like to fit with a 10 1/2" clutch.
Click to expand...

They are not expensive,

I have under chassi, and Mechanical clutch

Take a look at my 1970 440 4spd build

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33454
 
I`m running TTI 2" chassis headers on my 440 and had to go with the hydraulic clutch. I tried the headers with the factory big block clutch hardware and had issues with interference. My throw out bearing, MC, and slave cylinder were all supplied by Keisler Engineering. Although the clutch pedal lost it`s "real feel", it`s effortless and you get use to it rather quickly.
 
I don't think any factory clutch will work with a big block, you have to buy a big block 4 spd kit. I also don't know if they work with tti Y headers.

I don't know what headers I do have. all I know is that they are not shorties, and they are not fender wells.
 
mrtires24 said:
They are not expensive,

I have under chassi, and Mechanical clutch

Take a look at my 1970 440 4spd build

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=33454
Click to expand...

I'm talking about the early A's, 1966 & earlier.

TTI's from Mancini Racing......$750.00

Doug's from Summit..............$819.95

To me, that's expensive :-D Especially if they won't fit when converting to a 10.5" clutch, & I don't think anybody has found a good way to beef up the factory 9.5" (?) clutch. Those parts are long gone from my car anyway. That's why I'm thinking about a hydraulic setup. It's also why I'm seriously considering just having my 30+ year old set of fenderwell headers coated & running them. I just liked the idea of having a set of under chassis headers. I didn't have that option when I bought what I have. :angry7:
 
i didnt think anyone was making headers for an early a with a big block.
 
I'm talking about a smallblock. The thread was about hydraulic clutch setups & I was just commenting on them in general. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Sorry, I don't know if they are for early A's

But you can get anything if you have the money.

Phil
 
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