440 Build Help...Piston Delima

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Problem with the quench dome is you need to spend more money having the dome milled off usually. Now you're at the cost of the forged flat top I mentioned above. This isn't tough. It's just getting out of the TRW lead slug mindset of the 80's.
 
80fbody said:
Problem with the quench dome is you need to spend more money having the dome milled off usually. Now you're at the cost of the forged flat top I mentioned above. This isn't tough. It's just getting out of the TRW lead slug mindset of the 80's.
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x2. KB-237s, read the ring gap and cylinder wall clearance paperwork and you're good to go.
 
Everything has to be dead on if your building quench into your engine and the added cost especially with open chambers is not worth the gains and same with the CR why push it unless your planing on a fairly radical cam.
9:1 can make some serious power and a half a point more CR is at best 10 hp.
 
Dont fret about your pistons too long or overthink it,aint a damn thing wrong with the 2355's,they can be lightened and are bulletproof and for a street/strip engine build are hard to beat,have the engine balanced and you will never ever know the difference of a few grams,you aint building a piano here...these 2355's would and still is my choice of pistons for many reasons,in fact I'm looking for a set now in std bore for my 440 with 906[77cc] heads and a comp solid 290 cam and plan on running it on pump gas[89-91] final comp should be around 9.6 on mine..only if your planning on a 600hp plus monster then I would prob look at a lighter piston or spend the x-tra money...call it oldschool or whatever it works,and it works good and has been proven time after time as a outstanding performer and they still make them for a reason...so for the street/strip version a flat-top piston[with valve reliefs,like the 2355's] will serve you best and be easier for your build and can be improved upon in future upgrades..as far as cams go I would go a step or 2 above the 268 but thats just my opinion the 268 also performs well also...good luck with your build and keep it fun...
 
Part of what used to make the 2355's so heavy is the 250 gram pin ? Not sure if they are still using that Pin ? ....but we used to order the 1915 SP Pin and shave 40 grams off right away(not sure if that's available anymore either ?)

Nothing wrong with the 2355, virtually indestructible, was/still is the default Slug for many.

Nowadays, given we like a lighter Piston for cheaper Balancing...
for the stock Rods sub-550 HP, we just default to the 9953 ICON for an inexpensive lightweight Forged Slug, that uses equally inexpensive 5/64" Rings.
Pin-Fit the Pins @ .001" in the Piston... run the Rods at Thermally installed "interference".... NEVER had a problem, and we have lots out there approaching 50K miles.
Christ, we have 15 year Old "Super Gas" Drag Engines out there running LY Rods with pressed Pins... still going strong.
NOT recommending it nowadays obviously, with aftermarket Bushed stuff available... just sayin....
 
JICaptain, Call Hughes Engines. They will take the time to inform you, then sell the correct cobination of parts. The correct combo of parts will make way more power AND drivability. Even an experianced sbc builder can't build-match parts on a BB mopar if he hasn't done it than someone who does it for a living. they can sell you the correct parts too, all for the about the same $ as Summit. I bought a stroker Kit from them, Great Deal, and free advice, Priceless... Good Hunting, C300
 
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