440 getting hot

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rm69dart

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Hey guys,

Need some advice just rebuilt a 440 getting hot after 5 to 10 minutes of start up idling good purple cam AA heads dual carbs. what i v done re-core rad. new thermostat, taken heads to get checked out manga flex ext. took heads off 2 times just to make sure i installed them right. ok looks like top end heads maybe i think exhaust getting through the water some ware. please any info would really help.
 
Air pocket in block? Did you pretest the thermostat? Drill an 1/8" hole in thermostat? Describe the overheating process for us.
 
Just rebuilt... My first questions. How many miles? Timing good? Water flow good? Air flow good? Shroud/fan good?
 
What are you using to determine its over heating? A real gauge or the dash gauge?
Tell us all about your cooling system. Radiator, shroud fan type, water pump, etc.
Does it cool down while driving? What is your tune? Do you have AC?
 
Fisher said:
Make sure you have a new 16 lb rad cap too i have been bitten once by that.
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dano said:
What are you using to determine its over heating? A real gauge or the dash gauge?
Tell us all about your cooling system. Radiator, shroud fan type, water pump, etc.
Does it cool down while driving? What is your tune? Do you have AC?
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No driven miles, engine just drop in. no AC, thermostat 1/8 hole drilled, water flow good, timing set at 12 degrees advance, new water pump, using a real gauge no in dash, also Lazard water temp, rad. re-core, also did a block test in water its test fail exhaust is in the water, top gets really hot over 210 and keeps climbing and have to shut it down. any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks for the info. Is it a new to you motor? Pulleys correct? Fan? I'd almost guess trapped air if you haven't ran it much at all.
 
check your pulleys... the upper one on the waterpump should be smaler than the one on the crankshaft
I had the same issue...with my 440 HP ..in my Old Coronet
checked all and everything... at the end THE PULLEYS
they where wrong...

Greetings Juergen
 
195-200 is normal operating temperature. A good fan shroud and rad are needed. the T stat is designed to open and close to keep the water in the rad long enough to cool, and then release back to the motor.
 
If your getting exhaust in the water nothing will fix the cooling issue until this is fixed. If I read correctly the block failed the pressure check. If I mis understood sorry for adding confusion.
 
rm69dart said:
Hey guys,

Need some advice just rebuilt a 440 getting hot after 5 to 10 minutes of start up idling good purple cam AA heads dual carbs. what i v done re-core rad. new thermostat, taken heads to get checked out manga flex ext. took heads off 2 times just to make sure i installed them right. ok looks like top end heads maybe i think exhaust getting through the water some ware. please any info would really help.
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Hello rm69Dart. I have just been through the ringer on getting my 440 68 Dart to run cooler in our scorching Arizona weather. Have you checked the flow pressure of your cooling system? Coolant flow is a major component often overlooked. This can be checked using a simple store bought line pressure gauge found at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.. This is typically used to check pressure at a spicket. Coolant flow pressure should measure in around 18-20 psi 2000-3000 RPM. I contacted and spoke to Ron Davis last summer and this was his advice to me. I found out I was only running 8-10 psi 2000-3000 RPM. I ended up installing a new Flowkooler water pump and aluminum Mopar water pump housing and I now flow 20 psi at 2200 RPM. You can check this with the motor cool. It does not have to be at operating temperature according to Ron Davis. Ron informed me that most aftermarket water pumps simply do not flow enough volume. This update lowered my cooling temperature significantly and was a major component for successful temperature mitigation.
 
I have the same problem of overheating in my 62 440. I have a new alum rad, water pump, and serp belt with a pusher fan. Motor has about 3K on it now. I put the front end on my lift and lifted it up and removed the rad cap. Started it up and let it run. I saw air bubbles and let it run. They did nit seem to stop. What's up with that.
 
62 dodge said:
I have the same problem of overheating in my 62 440. I have a new alum rad, water pump, and serp belt with a pusher fan. Motor has about 3K on it now. I put the front end on my lift and lifted it up and removed the rad cap. Started it up and let it run. I saw air bubbles and let it run. They did nit seem to stop. What's up with that.
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Trying to find out why or what or where this could be coming from and the over heating issue.
 
So you have a leak from combustion to coolant. First place I would start is a compression and leak down check to determine the cylinder or cylinders that are leaking. Once you know this you can determine the areas that need inspected. I don't know the history of the engine so unless there is something cracked the point of concern is the head to block area. When you pulled the heads were there indications of where the coolant was leaking? There are limits in the manual on deviations of the mating surfaces. Did you straight edge the block and heads to make sure they are true, or were they checked at the machine shop? Did you follow the torque procedure during reassembly? Were the bolt holes in the block cleaned out, dirt fluids etc can cause incorrect torque values. Were the surfaces clean and dry? What type of head gaskets were used, composite or steel shim? Aluminum or iron heads? Just trying to get some more information out to help you. I would not run it anymore until you correct this issue or you will create other problems. The combustion to coolant leak will cause temp issues, and needs fixed before worrying about water temp at this point.
 
Took engine out and starting over taking block and heads back to machine shop. having it checked over by an other machine shop i will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all your help not only you help me but others in need to solving heating issues.
 
...And I'd consider bumping your initial timing up with your cam. 'Retarded' timing is not going help temperatures.
 
A proper shroud can make a big difference. And if using an aftermarket radiator, make sure it is sealed to the support in such a way that air is forced through the core - not allowed to flow around it.
 
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