440 heat issues...help!

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So if it's too fat on alcohol it will actually cause it to get hot? What do you mean by washing out the cylinders?
 
He means that there is so much fuel in the combustion chamber that it is washing the oil off of the cylinder walls.
 
Ahh I see. Anyone run a 1050 dominator on alcohol? What did you set your jets at or what's a good starting point?
 
Start with what came in the carb. I cant stress enough about low fuel pressure at idle 3-4 lbs at most .
most run a bybass system that gives 3 lbs at idle and 7 at wot.The steel needles and seats cant hold much more at idle.We have been sucessful on a manual fp at 5 with .130 ns.You cant tell by looking at plugs if your 10 sizes too big or small they will look new.If you have just an elec pump w/ reg turn it down to break in cam.Also be careful of your oil, it can milk up real quick and lose its lubricating quality.Talk to your carb guy and ask about n/s assys. that can hold more pressure.
 
1969Fish said:
Enjoying all the input.

.0065 x bore size for ring gap??

We are gonna check spring pressures again and take the inner spring out and put it back together with just the outer ring to see if it still binds, of course it will not be ran like that just a test.

Gonna pressure test the heads, and also try a set of 1.5 and a different set of 1.6 rockers we got laying around. Still don't explain heat problems. Maybe timing was waaay out causing heat issues???
Click to expand...

.0065 per inch of bore size
at 4.37 bore, that would be .0284gap. KB spec is for drag
 
joec said:
Start with what came in the carb. I cant stress enough about low fuel pressure at idle 3-4 lbs at most .
most run a bybass system that gives 3 lbs at idle and 7 at wot.The steel needles and seats cant hold much more at idle.We have been sucessful on a manual fp at 5 with .130 ns.You cant tell by looking at plugs if your 10 sizes too big or small they will look new.If you have just an elec pump w/ reg turn it down to break in cam.Also be careful of your oil, it can milk up real quick and lose its lubricating quality.Talk to your carb guy and ask about n/s assys. that can hold more pressure.
Click to expand...

My pressure at idle is 6.5. It's a magnafuel 500 with return. Also have a lean out valve installed in carb spacer.

Now, I have the front end off my motor chasing why it's hard to turn over with the valves adjusted. I get to looking at TDC the cam gear dot is at 12 o'clock. The crank gear A (cam advanced 4 degrees) is at 12 o'clock.. Shouldn't it be dot on cam gear at 6 o'clock and A on crank gear at 12 o'clock?? Will this effect anything other than the distributor must be turned 180 out?? Why would it be this way? I could see it working if the cam is not advanced but with it being advanced....my brain is fried, I've looked at it too long. Input?
 
It never ran very good and kept backfiring out the carb and fighting the starter. When I am dot to A #6 is actually firing. That is backwards..right?
 
4 speed and aj is correct on cam timing .Set f/p at 3 lbs, lean out valve has nothing to do with f/p.Sounds like you had your ign timing off.
 
Yes it's a 3104 comp timing gear set. The crank gear is in slot marked A. When 6 is firing the A on crank gear is at 12 o'clock and the dot on cam gear is at 6 o'clock.
 
the 2nd A is at 12 right, not the 1st A above the slot? maybe coil bind, but edelbrock says springs are good for .600 " lift.
 
I've looked for coil bind and the double springs I have on now are good for more than the factory edelbrock. Could the inner spring cool bind and not the outer?
 
Fighting the starter is too much timing.
Popping through the carb, is usually lean; but could go back to too-early a spark, or even too-tight a valve lash. And even rotor phasing, and induction cross=firing. So it's a process of elimination.

I would start with a LeakDown test, to prove the valves are closing.
If you have the intake off, it's real easy to check the cam timing.
The idle-timing can be set pretty close without having the engine running.
After the idle-timing is set, I would have a look at the rotor phasing.
As to a vacuum leak, the engine will need to be running.
Keep in mind that if your T-port sync is out to lunch, she could be running lean on the low-speed circuit ,on account of that.
 
Im lost, if it turns free with no rockers(no compression) but hard with rockers (compression + spring pressure) thats normal??? I think you should get it running address the fuel issue(too much pressure blowing by the needle and seats ) adjust timing where it should be.The temp will come down(or should) break in the cam if not already broke in and adjust from there.After all this has been done then look for jetting.The lift after lash would probably be around .510 or so I dont think its the springs.After that change oil with one that is alky friendly.With 12+ comp its gonna turn hard by hand.
 
also the leanout valve is there to get heat in engine make sure its not open(which is kind of a controlled vacuum leak)
 
It turned over hard with or without plugs. I have found 2 pish rods with wear on them where they go thru the head. One you can actually feel the groove in the push rod....drill the.hole in the heads out???..
 
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