charger426
Well-Known Member
Thats also a 383 aka a lot easier because its a low deck.
I wish everyone would stop trying to scare away people from this swap.
True, but the pictures posted by zac F71 also depicted a 383 swap and I'm curious if the severe headerThats also a 383 aka a lot easier because its a low deck.
True, but the pictures posted by zac F71 also depicted a 383 swap and I'm curious if the severe header
denting was necessary because of trying to make the headers fit while installing them from the top instead
of assembling everything on the K-frame outside of the car before inserting it from the bottom as a complete
engine/trans/headers unit?
My point being that any "necessary adjustments" will be easier and less severe if the out of car assembly
method is used intitially to identify any clearance issues. Tighter tollarences can be used if trying to make
everything fit prior to installation instead of during installation because nothing has to move once bolted
together.
If the assembly is on the floor and there is an area that requires a major header pipe repositioning you can
mark and change a small section of the header instead of beating it severly.
If your not handy with a welder (I'm not) you can take the header to a local race car builder/fabricator with
simple instructions of how you need the pipe moved.
We have done 440's also and here is one with, I believe, Pro-Parts headers that do have some strategically
placed albeit smaller dents around the steering shaft like the ones zac F71 posted. I suppose the fact that he
is using RB headers on a B swap accounts for the more dramatic issue at the steering arm.
A big block swap is not for the faint of heart.. if you give up easy on stuff, this may not be for you.. not trying to talk you out of it but it just not easy. This was my first time doing the swap as well
That aside - here is the short list depending on your car's options - plan on it doubling any costs/time you may have planned when the time comes to get stuff done -
Reuse the slant 6 engine harness - have to shorten/legthen a couple wires = plug and play
with a big block motor
If 3/4sp-
short tail 833 like said
driveshaft - I'm sure custom length
car trans mount/ Xmember if different from an automatic trans piece
speedo gear/cable if different from an auto or what's in the car
car bell housing, flywheel/clutch
modified Z bar or hydraulic clutch setup
If auto-
A727
same slant 6 X member/mount
custom length driveshaft
3,000rpm stall converter minimum
factory floor shift or aftermarket cable shifter
Lokar kick down cable if no manual valve body
$70 throttle cable bracket from eBay
- much easier route in my book
Schumacher/ trans-Dapt swap mounts
Schumacher torque strap, and motor mount shims
V8 radiator and WP housing to match outlet sides
B body pass side, C body driverside manifolds OR-
TTi, or Schumacher headers - TTi headers do not fit PS, they can be made to fit with pounding a few of the tubes though
2.5" minimum exhaust system
8 3/4, ford 8.8, ford 9", or 3/4 ton JY Dana 60 axle (<- If I did it over again this is what I'd do)
3/8" fuel sending unit, and front to rear line
disc brakes in front minimum
US Car Tool subframe connectors and drive shaft loop
Mini starter from newer 5.9 magnum truck
These are the minimum parts needed to make it easier to install and get it running, it will still be difficult beyond this as these car's were not designed for this.. couple pics of my car to give you an idea.. had my engine in and out over 6 times fitting and refitting everything - (383/727 71 Demon with CPPA/TTi based 2" headers)
So if I'm using the ford diffs or the JY dana 60 will the bolt pattern be the same as my 5 on 4.5
or do I put my axle shafts in the dana or ford diffs?
Understood.I had my whole front suspension already built, and in the car- brakes bled and all.. didn't want to
drop it all again haha so I did it the harder way as it seems......Trans had to go in first, then hook
headers around the T bar's/ trans.
I recently trade for a 1974 dodge truck. 440 and a 4 speed. Looking to put the 440 in my car. I know I need to connect the frame together. But what else may be concerned about using a truck motor and trans and anything I should know before diving into this project. Thanks.
As Old Man Mopar said - most of the ford's use 5x4.5" (explorer/94+ Mustang), A dana 60 out of a junk yard will be out of a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, so you'll have to buy the car housing ends, and new axlesSo if I'm using the ford diffs or the JY dana 60 will the bolt pattern be the same as my 5 on 4.5 or do I put my axle shafts in the dana or ford diffs?
70 Duster (was a /6) with 383 4-speed. Schumacher mounts, TTi headers and NO hammering.
You can see in the pic where the #7 tube has three new (as yet unwelded) seams to very slightly
reposition the tube for clutch cross shaft clearance.
Had this been an automatic car, even this would have been unneccesary. I don't know why TTi
doesn't just build them like this and then they could be listed to fit either transmission.
You should assemble the engine/trans/headers on the K-frame outside of the car, test fit everything
before final paint and detail then install from the bottom for a clean, sanitary, no dent job.
I will make this simple, get your self a Schumacher 440 swap kit, plus ask them about shims for the motor to help get the motor level once its in. Follow there directions on what needs little modifications. You may have trouble with water pump to radiator clearance or use an electric water pump and fans. Torsion bars are up to you, if you want to drive just on the street and some drag racing. I would upgrade. Now I would upgrade to disc up front. That's up to you. Drums may be a little hard to stop with. Schumacher headers fit great and do work with a 500HP motor.
What do I upgrade from torsion bars to. And I do have discs up front with the 5 X 4.5 bolt pattern
A 400 has the same low-deck external dimensions as a 383 and is a way better deal. I'm building aSo upon further digging I realized this is a 400 block not a 440. I know that they are similar in
hardware and such just the 400 is a bit narrower. So will most of this information based on the
440 swap be similar to a 400 swap.
Thank you (mostly from Denny). This is FABO member Hooshpuppy's car and was found in Nebraska (1st pic) byold man,let me say that is a fansastic engine bay clean up job.one of the nicest ive seen.great job
Bad ***!Piece of cake. Schumacher's your friend. My upgrade from a slant... (and I kept the heater)