I’m going to disagree a lot. My .030 (440) ran 9.82 in a 1974 duster back in the early 1990’s with junk modified stock parts. I would hate to see what the good parts of today could produce.
Amen brother !
Tommy
I’m going to disagree a lot. My .030 (440) ran 9.82 in a 1974 duster back in the early 1990’s with junk modified stock parts. I would hate to see what the good parts of today could produce.
got around to messing with the dart some more. been busy working on my firebird. got the pans welded in and seam sealed! i've ran into a problem tho on my dart. did they use a different length pushrod for mechanical lifters vs hydraulic on 440s? put the solid lifter in and it's way off the pushrod won't even seat in the lifter with the rocker rail all the way down. the lifter says it's for mopar and i believe it's stock lifter seat height. 1.630" seat height. do you think i could use an adjustable pushrod? max it out when it's on the lowest spot on the lobe and just make sure it doesn't adjust when i'm rotating engine?Remember IF you find rhe timing is off, you can play the game of using offset bushings or keys or whatever or even in combo with a tooth off to get the cam where it belongs. I've done that before as it really doesn't matter "how you got there" so long as the cam ends up where it's supposed to be.
i have ball end pushrods. how do i measure lift from pushrod without rockers on it? i'm wondering if i could just put the dial indicator on the top of the lifter and rotate the engine... hm. i took an old hydraulic lifter i had and tac welded the seat to the lifter and installed it but something has to be off because the rocker on that lobe has no play even at the very bottom of the cam lobe. can't move it side to side at all. like it's holding the valve open a little all the way around the lobe. there is no weld or splatter at all in the top of the lifter where the pushrod sits so i'm not sure how it could be like that. i might just try to tac weld another a try it to see if it works normal. all this fuss i might also just break down and buy a valve spring compressor for head on engine and change it out to the lightweight spring that came in my degree kit.Just degree the cam off the pushrod.
Put it on lifter down in the valley multiply by 1-1/2 there your lift. Or use a cupped pushrod, dowel, brake line, copper tubing, laying against the rocker shaft (keep it straight up and down) all measurement can be taken off the lifter. On what you made you’re getting into preload of lifteri have ball end pushrods. how do i measure lift from pushrod without rockers on it? i'm wondering if i could just put the dial indicator on the top of the lifter and rotate the engine... hm. i took an old hydraulic lifter i had and tac welded the seat to the lifter and installed it but something has to be off because the rocker on that lobe has no play even at the very bottom of the cam lobe. can't move it side to side at all. like it's holding the valve open a little all the way around the lobe. there is no weld or splatter at all in the top of the lifter where the pushrod sits so i'm not sure how it could be like that. i might just try to tac weld another a try it to see if it works normal. all this fuss i might also just break down and buy a valve spring compressor for head on engine and change it out to the lightweight spring that came in my degree kit.
If I want to know the lift for that engine and rocker I’ll measure off retainer, but like you said all the rest measure off the lifter (use solid lifter)Assuming a rocker will produce the lift from the stated ratio will lead to errors. Numerous factors such as prod length will affect the final ratio: ie lobe lift multiplied by the rocker ratio equals the valve lift. The ratio changes during the sweep of the rocker. Below are some rockers D. Vizard tested & as you can see the ratios are all over the place.
If you want accurate results, measure off the lifter....
View attachment 1716265323
lol basically. been pretty hot out and i've been trying to figure out how i'll degree it with my setup. i finally understood and got a consistent reading while degreeing. my intake lobe centerline is 110 degrees. recommend intake centerline for my cam is 105. is there a huge loss of power here being 5 degrees off? i'm not sure how much is too much but from what i've read .5 degrees tolerance is ideal.Marathon cam degreeing session?
finally got consistent reading from intake centerline. i'm at 110 degrees and isky recommends 105. how much of a power loss am i having being 5 degrees off?If I want to know the lift for that engine and rocker I’ll measure off retainer, but like you said all the rest measure off the lifter (use solid lifter)
5 degrees retarded can be a big deal. What is the static compression ratio? If it's under 9.5, it probably wouldn't hurt a thing to get it down around 102 intake center line. I wouldn't even be afraid of 100.finally got consistent reading from intake centerline. i'm at 110 degrees and isky recommends 105. how much of a power loss am i having being 5 degrees off?
I'm not speaking specifically to any of your questions but it'll speak to them all. Very unusual but wonderful to see someone young whom is pretty deeply engaged in building a hotrod. Pull and sell the dinosaur driveline and put a junkyard Eagle gen3 in it and watch your efforts pay off in larger dividends. You'll go a lot faster for less money and it'll be more reliable. People who know me wouldn't believe I'm recommending this but, in the context of everything I've read here, it's sound advice.finally got consistent reading from intake centerline. i'm at 110 degrees and isky recommends 105. how much of a power loss am i having being 5 degrees off?
While you're still young. Eventually there will be millions of the new Hemi's sitting in scrap yards. Vehicles are just throw a ways now.I'm not speaking specifically to any of your questions but it'll speak to them all. Very unusual but wonderful to see someone young whom is pretty deeply engaged in building a hotrod. Pull and sell the dinosaur driveline and put a junkyard Eagle gen3 in it and watch your efforts pay off in larger dividends. You'll go a lot faster for less money and it'll be more reliable. People who know me wouldn't believe I'm recommending this but, in the context of everything I've read here, it's sound advice.
That's very true and a good point. Almost makes me wanna look into a new Hemi swap. Almost. But not quite.While you're still young. Eventually there will be millions of the new Hemi's sitting in scrap yards. Vehicles are just throw a ways now.