So I'm working on reversing the shroud and my retired engineer neighbour comes out and says "I think the shroud may have been assembled backwards", then he looks and says "oh you've already thought of that"
451 overheating, even when moving
- Thread starter canajien
- Start date
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mopowers
Well-Known Member
Heck, I'd try taking that mess of a shroud and fans off all together and toss a solid mechanical fan on that water pump with no shroud and give it a shot. At least air would be able to pass through the complete surface of the radiator when the car's in motion.
Was going to mention this earlier, but thought I would give the OP a go at his post #26 to see if things improve.
Here is a short mechanical fan that can go on next with no shroud. 18" fan fits the application well and moves good air.
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If I had a mechanical blade to put in there, I would
At least to see if there's even enough clearance once the e fans are gone
Gonna take it out again tomorrow morning, see if the burping and correct fan shroud placement solves anything
"If I had a mechanical blade to put in there, I would."
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Here is the 18" blade we used on the 440 to keep it cool.
#19118
Ebay, $52.00 free ship
Ebay item number:
Long paddles, move a lot of air, run quiet.
☆☆☆☆☆
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Here is the 18" blade we used on the 440 to keep it cool.
#19118
Ebay, $52.00 free ship
Ebay item number:
Long paddles, move a lot of air, run quiet.
☆☆☆☆☆
That fan shroud blocks more of the radiator than it allows flow for. Also, two electric fans aren't working and you want to add a third? Why not do some actual diagnosis first? Throwing parts at something is not the way to do it. Get an IR temp gun and shoot the upper hose going into the radiator and the lower hose coming out of the radiator and see how much of a difference there. This will tell you how good the radiator is. The wider the split between those two temps, the better job the radiator is doing. Also shoot the thermostat housing and around the temp sender to assure the engine and the gauge correspond.
I'm beginning to suspect there was air in the system that was let out by running it the other day. I'll know better this morning, but I found the temp gun so I'll be checking those numbers as well.
Thanks
Here's the test results after 20 mins of idling and fans on
Lower hose next to the rad 195
Upper hose next to the thermostat 205
Thermostat housing 212
Coolant in the top of the rad 198
Any air has to be purged by now, time to try a different fan, unless the previous owner was running race coolant, we test drove for nearly an hour before I bought it and there was no indication that overheating would be an issue.
Amazon has the mechanical fan in stock, and it can be here tomorrow...
The headers were all pretty much around 950 to 1000
Lower hose next to the rad 195
Upper hose next to the thermostat 205
Thermostat housing 212
Coolant in the top of the rad 198
Any air has to be purged by now, time to try a different fan, unless the previous owner was running race coolant, we test drove for nearly an hour before I bought it and there was no indication that overheating would be an issue.
Amazon has the mechanical fan in stock, and it can be here tomorrow...
The headers were all pretty much around 950 to 1000
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor, and go out to your reg vehicle when hot, or a neighbor/friend, and shoot the temps on the upper and lower hoses on it, for a reference .
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
It is not uncommon for there to be a surge of water out the top as the thermostat opens, it'll puke some then, the coolant will then settle to about an inch or so below top, and circulation should be visible from the opening .
The other overheat thread currently running has just had his plugged rad cleaned, and we're waiting for results .
You'll be fine .
If you want some comic relief, scan some of the older threads, some truly fantastic shrouds, imagination, skill, craftsmanship demonstrated, only to end up a frisbee across the backyard .
Heartbreaking art .
Cheers
The other overheat thread currently running has just had his plugged rad cleaned, and we're waiting for results .
You'll be fine .
If you want some comic relief, scan some of the older threads, some truly fantastic shrouds, imagination, skill, craftsmanship demonstrated, only to end up a frisbee across the backyard .
Heartbreaking art .
Cheers
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I apologize, I missed the upper/lower rad temps .
You appear to be getting only 15* of temp drop thru your rad, that might be enuff for a garden tractor . lol
If you take the temp gun, and shoot all across the rad, about halfway down, you will likely find cool/cold areas, those are plugged tubes not passing hot coolant.
The bigger/more cold areas, the bigger the problem .
Before temp guns, I'd run my knuckles across the front of the rad, searching for cold.
Cheers
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The radiator isn't working. It's only cooling down 10 degrees from top to bottom. That's pathetic.
charger426
Well-Known Member
So generally when racing you're running straight water so if you do have any issues you're not covering the track in antifreeze. I know I missed the part about the car being driven for nearly an hour before with no over heating issues.... Makes me wonder what changed in that time. If things where working before and not they are not, something has changed.
So I'm gonna measure the rad temp in different spots tomorrow, and I'll be bypassing the heater core while I'm at it. It doesn't do anything but make my feet sweat as it was moved to above the transmission hump inside the cabin and there is no blower anyway.
Unless anyone has good reason to keep it. This car ain't gonna see the road after our thanksgiving and before may 24 anyway.
Unless anyone has good reason to keep it. This car ain't gonna see the road after our thanksgiving and before may 24 anyway.
Looking at post #26, not surprised the engine runs hot. The plate that the fans are mounted on look like it has little or no gap to the rad core. There needs to be a 'free flow' of air through the rad core...& it looks like that is not happening.
Here's the result of the test, got it to 180 on the gauge then ran for about 10 mins and measured on the outside of the rad, about 5 to 6 inches away from left to right, 4 rows 4 spots in each row, moved the trans cooler out of the way first
Topp row first, from left to right
185 to 190
160 on the left then 175 to 180
168 to 171
160 to 170
And no puking today
Inside the engine bay was similar to ydays numbers
Topp row first, from left to right
185 to 190
160 on the left then 175 to 180
168 to 171
160 to 170
And no puking today
Inside the engine bay was similar to ydays numbers
I'm gonna remove the shroud later today, now that I have ties for attaching the fans to the rad
But still no puking
Sure glad you have the new 18" solid mechanical fan coming to put on there next, without the shroud.
Relief at last, Relief at last, Relief at last......
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As I was lifting the carpet to clean and add some por, I found a nice puddle of coolant
So the heater core delete was done today, Ferrari would charge 10k for that and call it super super legerra, I'll have to run another open cap cycle to get any air out, again...
We'll see if the old school metal fan helps later this week, for now, back to the floor
So the heater core delete was done today, Ferrari would charge 10k for that and call it super super legerra, I'll have to run another open cap cycle to get any air out, again...
We'll see if the old school metal fan helps later this week, for now, back to the floor
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