5.2/5.9 H.P build guesstimate

-
Oh yes everything will be measured as always no guessing game, I’m just stuck between two cam choices right now,

222/228 @ 50 277/283 .494/.515

And the 230/236@50 282/290 .515/515

I was thinking if I port the heads a bit, add a windage tray, and up my compression to true 9:5
The smaller camshaft might work for me especially if I plan to drive this thing to work sometimes lol.

The crate engine peaks at 5400 because of the stock cylinder heads. If you put them out the larger volume will increase the RPM ceiling.

I do believe the small cam will be much more enjoyable for the street. Depending on how well the head supported, I don’t really see an issue with peeking at 6000 good set of ported heads

Cams are giving a general RPM range. Guys that are experiencing this tend to laugh out loud and call this bullshit at a lie. Partly because it is because one camshaft is labeled for all small blocks covering the same RPM range. Impossible 273 in a 360 and have the same RPM range.

Charge the top from the air cleaner through the carburetor through the intake manifold and the cylinder will allow the cams to be extended a few RPM.

Likewise, just the reverse. If you installed a restricted air cleaner, too small of carburetor a restrictive dual plane and small port I wouldn’t be surprised to power happens at 5000.
The smaller cam may not pull that vacuum either, depending on where the LSA is ground.
Bingo
 
Oh! For what it’s worth, if my wife’s 360, I have a Comp Hyd roller cam that is 224° of duration at .050 lift. While some could it waste to install trick flows on top, I also added 1.6 rockers for a higher than .570 lift.

The Barracuda has 3,55’s on 26” tires, a 904 with a custom stall converter. The gears are not ideal for the track but work nice for the street. I’ll be trying a set of 4.10’s later on at the track. As it is now, I barely get out of second gear on the track.
 
So after some thinking, I found a grind that is milder and might work for for me,

218/224 @50 270/276 .0482 lift
110LSA Intake 106 Exhaust 114.

I’ll degree this camshaft probably advance it to get some more cylinder pressure.

With a 3000 stall converter 3.55 on the street and 3.91 at the 1/8 mile I should be good. I hope lol
 
So after some thinking, I found a grind that is milder and might work for for me,

218/224 @50 270/276 .0482 lift
110LSA Intake 106 Exhaust 114.

I’ll degree this camshaft probably advance it to get some more cylinder pressure.

With a 3000 stall converter 3.55 on the street and 3.91 at the 1/8 mile I should be good. I hope lol
Should be a fine cam, I wouldn't go any smaller, 3000-5500 rpm is basically the main play area on the street, overall smaller cams aren't really gonna get you anymore average power there.

I got the 380hp crate was gonna put a similar cam as Richard Holdener did in the video, when I bought the cam choices were limited, he had 212/218 .480 114, I got the 210/220 .5xx 112 I went for the slightly tighter Lsa, but I haven't put it in. When I bought the car I kind of wanted a cruiser so I bought a bunch of parts for that, but then I've realize that's not me, I'm generally not going on super long trips or ever will and when I do It's a few hours in the Canadian back roads of Southern Ontario so basically 55 mph at best.

So the smaller cam gives up a fair bit of top end hp which I don't overly care about, but it does gives up some 3000-5000 rpm power too which I do care about so I've never bothered to swap cams.
 
Last edited:
I e run a similar camshaft and that cam is usable with a OEM converter. 3.55’s are good. It made power to 5K on my LA 318 w/stock heads
 
It's a hotrod. To me, unless it's REALLY gonna be a daily driver, id go with the rumpety rumpety rumpety and gear it accordingly. But that's me lol....
 
Here's a 5.9l magnum going from stock 200° ish to 212° cam.

If we guesstimate torque to 2500 rpm, if you minus the little tick up as the dyno kicks in, looks like stock curve probably will start around 380 tq and the 212° around 370 tq.

We can guesstimate a 218° and 222° and 230° cam curve.

Above 3500 rpm each should be basically all gain each step you go up.

From 2500-3500 rpm is the question how it's gonna be, If you look at the 5.9l crate it makes 381-415 tq and 181-277 hp 2500-3500 rpm so bigger cam doesn't automatically mean bottom end will be destroyed. So stock is basically making the same as the crate at 2500 rpm plus the crate is a single plane intake.

Say the 230° makes the lowest at 2500 a 218 probably be similar down low as the 212° and 222° maybe some where in between.

You have a 3000 rpm stall so 2500-3000 rpm ain't overly gonna matter much above 3500 rpm these cams should be all/mostly gain each step up. So 3000-3500 rpm might be questionable but bet there at worst making somewhat similar power there.

So really smaller is more for idle, maybe some gas mileage, maybe better under 2500 rpm cruising etc.

1724195426997.png
 
-
Back
Top