5.9 magnum with M122 blower/intercooler

-
frosty_the_punk

frosty_the_punk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
785
Reaction score
202
Hey guys.
Been working on this for a while now, still a long way to go but it's starting to take shape.
Thought I'd share some pics I took recently.

(Edited for more info below)

The Blower and intercooler are both from an 07-12 Ford GT500 5.4L, these blowers are capable of supporting about 600hp on E85.

The intake manifold is a factory kegger which I modified myself to allow room for the intercooler. I cut the top off the manifold manually with a hand saw I made for performing a horizontal cut.

I will try to get pics of the inside of the manifold.. a LOT of material was gutted using air tools. The runners are almost non-existent now unfortunately.

The Crank pulley is a Vortech "universal" (does not fit mopar) 10-rib unit, it measures 7.8" diameter.
This is the largest possible pulley I could use while still clearing the magnum water pump pulley.
I had to fill the existing holes and redrill to suit the mopar dampener bolt pattern.

The supercharger snout is from a pontiac Grand prix GTP M90 as the GT500 snout was too short. It has 8 bolts instead of 7 and will need to be welded and redrilled.

The blower pulley is an Edelbrock piece that is made for their 10-rib E-force superchargers and measures 2.625" diameter. These are by far the most affordable 10-rib blower pulleys I could find. (I also have them in 2.75", 3.0" and 3.25" so I can turn the boost up/down)

The blower pulley is mounted on a 4-bolt hub that I made by machining down a factory steel press fit pulley in a lathe then drilled/tapped.

The spring loaded tensioner and idler are both from a Cummins ISX 12L diesel. Perhaps excessive. (you can't do too much to eliminate belt slip with a serpentine)

The tensioner is mounted on a 6 bolt bracket that can be rotated to adjust the position of the arm in small increments. (Just like adjusting a cam gear for more advance/retard)
This should be useful for adjusting preload, blower pulley diameter changes or to compensate for any belt stretch.

All the aluminium blower and accessory plates were machined using a makita wood router and single flute carbide bits, either freehand or using timber jigs.

I will be running a tank of water in the boot to feed the intercooler. to save on cost I will be using a mechanical belt-driven water pump from a jag AJ6 engine mounted as an accessory instead of an electric pump.
This should hopefully outperform most electric pumps at a fraction of the price anyway.

The engine itself is currently stock as a rock.
I'm tempted to gap the rings, upgrade the valve springs, install some MLS head gaskets and see how it responds.

20220506_231234.jpg


20220506_202919.jpg


20220506_202635.jpg


20220506_210329.jpg
 
Last edited:
That's the biggest one Eaton made, right? I have an M90 on the 3800 V6 in my Park Avenue Ultra. I gutted the baffles out the of the stock air box just so I could hear the whine when I get on it lol. I was thinking of dropping down a pulley size but with how gas is now I don't find myself getting into the boost very much.
 
Looks like you modded the factory beer keg intake? Nice!
 
An intercooler built into the intake? That's badass man.
 
That looks like its gonna be a lot of fun. Great job on the progress so far. Looking forward to seeing it all come together more.
 
What if any was the M122 used OEM?

And yeh, we need "more on this"
 
Lightning came with an M112. They are less efficient than the 122 you have. They just make heat after roughly 450whp. Still decent blowers though
 
On the cheap, using what's out there. Love it! Keep us updated!!!!
 
Sorry guys, not a whole lot of noteworthy progress for show and tell.

It's still all happening, but other projects plus work commitments have taken priority. I tend to pick away at this in between other things so progress is pretty slow.

I've collected most of the EFI parts. Which adds up in cost quickly.

Fuel supply is an aeromotive dual phantom in-tank pump set up running -8 AN lines. (Which are enormous imo, but it's what aeromotive recommends)

Had to machine my own fuel rails with the top of the rail offset outwards away from the manifold for clearance. (They look like something made in the 1930's, but they should work)

Acquired the ECU, it's a Haltech Elite 2500, plus flex fuel sensor, plus NTK dual wideband O2 controller/sensors which are compatible with E85.

Got all of the sensors plugs, pins etc,
Partial progess made on the mock-up harness, Will definitely want to run the engine on a test rig and test all functions before I heat-shrink anything.

Will run wasted-spark setup.
Have acquired IGN-4 "tower" type coils from DIYautotune, plus their Bosch "quadspark" igniter to drive them.

36-1 trigger wheel still needs mounting to pulley spacer. Things are very, very tight at the front of this engine.

I've had some mission creep with this project so the drive for the accessories became a bit of a conundrum.

The early valiants don't have much room at the front of the engine once you start stacking pulleys.

I decided I wanted AC to run a water chiller for the intercooler (like a demon) so I've mock-up mounted a tiny little 100cc AC compressor down low on the right hand side of the engine.

I bought an "interchiller" from a company out here FI Interchillers – Interchillers for water to air intercooler systems who make a nice piece. should be perfect for a Heaton blower.
Not entieely sure where i'll mount it yet Though.

One if the good things about the interchiller is it can be mounted almist anywhere and replaces the front mount heat exchanger. It just works with any AC system.

I adapted a V-belt pulley from an early pushrod Toyota corolla engine onto to a jag mechanical water pump for the intercooler. Need to get stuck in and mount the pump to the engine, front clearance is gonna be tight even with thermo fans.

I also dicsovered that trying to mount the factory magnum alternator anywhere other than above the timing cover also became futile due to it's length. I ended up getting a powermaster unit for a 4.6 ford V8 which us about an inch shorter and adapting a V-belt pulley on it, too.

Basically I've got 95% of the bits and pieces but still have a whoooooole heap of work to do.

I know it's been almost a year, life happens I guess. Will try to get some progress and updates/photos happening :thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
@frosty_the_punk This is one bad *** build! You gave me a lot of ideas! What year/generation Gran Prix is the snout from? And do you know if it is interchangeable with other years? Also, what did you do to be able to fit the 4-bolt Edelbrock pulleys? I normally see 6-bolt pulleys on Eatons.
 
UZswapBarge said:
@frosty_the_punk This is one bad *** build! You gave me a lot of ideas! What year/generation Gran Prix is the snout from? And do you know if it is interchangeable with other years? Also, what did you do to be able to fit the 4-bolt Edelbrock pulleys? I normally see 6-bolt pulleys on Eatons.
Click to expand...
Cheers man, I need to update this with some progress. There's been a lot of trial and error with getting the accessory drive to fit in an early valiant.

The M90 grand prix snout is one I purchased off ebay, so I don't have the exact details. I think they said it's from an early-mid 2000's car but not certain.

The M90 snouts are not all interchangeable, mine is an 8-bolt. some have a different 9-bolt pattern like this one.
OEM 1997-03 Buick Regal Grand Prix Chevrolet M90 Supercharger Snout | eBay
There are also different length options.
I remember researching that the snout with the provision for the long vertical bolt adjacent the driveshaft was most suitable for my application, but I don't remember whether the others were longer or shorter and it doesnt appear to be in my notepad.
The info is out there in forums though.

The answer to your question about the 4 bolt hub for the edelbrock pulleys is in the original post =P
I made the hub from the factory pulley on a lathe and then drilled/tapped holes to suit the edelbrock pulley pattern.

Lathe work is always an interesting experience for me since I have almost zero machining knowledge and mostly just rely on my intuition and tell myself i'll learn how to do things properly one day.
 
Thank you for your response. Looks like the correct M90 generation is 5, 04-07 Grand Prix. I accidentally ordered Gen 3, but luckily was able to cancel it at the last moment :D
Did you tig weld the 2 wrong holes? I am thinking of just filling them with JB Weld temporarily so I don't invest 1500+ into TIG for now.

I wonder if it is ok add an inch or two of spacer to fit with the pulley I'm getting... Will show a picture once it arrives!

Let's see if I somehow manage to pull a similar build off with no access to machines, going to be an interesting challenge!
 
UZswapBarge said:
Thank you for your response. Looks like the correct M90 generation is 5, 04-07 Grand Prix. I accidentally ordered Gen 3, but luckily was able to cancel it at the last moment :D
Did you tig weld the 2 wrong holes? I am thinking of just filling them with JB Weld temporarily so I don't invest 1500+ into TIG for now.

I wonder if it is ok add an inch or two of spacer to fit with the pulley I'm getting... Will show a picture once it arrives!

Let's see if I somehow manage to pull a similar build off with no access to machines, going to be an interesting challenge!
Click to expand...
04-07 sounds about right.

Haven't tig welded the snout yet, I have thought about JB weld too but haven't looked at it closely. If it has to be tig welded I'll get someone who can tig a lot better than me so it can look pretty and not leak oil everywhere..

As for adding a spacer, I know Cobra Engineering make a press fit extension about that length. I've read from people who have had success with them on their 03-04 cobras.
But for me, knowing how much load goes through a blower pulley I don't consider it great engineering" to move the pulley further away from where the shaft is supported on the front snout bearing.

I don't want to be negative, but make sure you weight up the risk/reward.
It's my opinion that *If* one of those spacers experiences a rapid unscheduled disassembly at 15-18,000rpm with 50-80hp going through it, the consequences are going to be highly destructive to your hood/radiator/fan etc and may end up costing you a lot more than just getting a longer snout would have.
On the other hand, it may never cause a problem at all.

Would love to see a thread on your build, I could always use some inspiration.
Anything with a supercharger is always cool in my book :thumbsup:
 
earlymopar said:
Just curious why your tensioner is so far offset?
Click to expand...
In that photo the tensioner is both misaligned and also I'm using a belt that is a few inches too long, making the arm rest at almost full extension.
It was just a mock-up, though.

I have since raised the tensioner higher to allow more room in that area for the accessories.
a lot of it's currently mounted on plywood until i finalize things a bit more.

The tensioner's mounting hub has several locating holes to choose from with varying offset, with the goal being that I should be able to swap smaller/larger supercharger pulleys for more/less boost and then "clock" the tensioner to compensate. This way I won't need a different length belt for each pulley.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top