$50 Craigslist 360 EXTREME budget rebuild??

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fishmens67 said:
I love it. reminds me of the old days, backyard rebuilds with my brother. anyone ever try rebuild pellets, I did. lol
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Old days for sure, reminds me of cleaning engine parts in my mother's bathtub, and cleaning up afterwards so she never knew, building a 2x4 and visqueen (plastic wrap, vapor barrier) spray booth around the frontend of a 64 Sport Fury out in mother's apartment complex parking lot so we could paint the engine bay, turning my first apartments dining room in to a machine shop for porting etc, more visqueen hung like a curtain.....Man the **** we did to work on cars!! And working on engines "in house" also spilled over to domestic chores like using a big pressure cooker pot as a hot tank, boiling water and soap to hot tank dishes that had too much crud that normal cleaning wouldn't remove, Mac and cheese especially.......Worked great! Lol
 
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You'd be hard-pressed to find a more onboard wife, but I tried that in the oven with a harmonic balancer next to the Thanksgiving turkey anyways it's a long story have told it before not going to do that!
Krooser said:
Borrow the wife's dishwasher to clean the parts... I have some Jeep piston/rod assemblies on final rinse right now!
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just got the rods/pistons out of the dishwasher.. did a good job on the rods but I still had to hand wash the pistons to get the gunk off of the piston tops and ring lands.
 
gregsdart said:
What intake and carb do you have for it? I could see a nickel rebuild with a mild cam upgrade, factory TQ carb/manifold and a set of headers making a great little package! A recurved distributor, and it ought to run 13s with a decent gear and tires.
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This, I already did....A Crower Baja Beast,3:55 gears,and a Road Runner converter...Chassis tuning,is the big part... First pass was at Famoso,13.99 @101.... and was driven there.
The devil.....is attention ,to the details..
 
Like I said extreme cheap- beg,borrow, trade or worst of all have to pay for! Here's all the things that kind of comes to mind :
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Of course like it says I want everything to be plug-and-play. Take my motor/trans out on Saturday and put hers in on Sunday and vice versa. I want it to have its own transmission cooler and I have a little fan or two that came off of a motorcycle. Motor and transmission distributor carb everything all come out at once with its own self-containment. Make universal plug for electrical for both Motors and make both Motors run off the current electric fuel pump current electric fans for cooling and I was thinking about using electric water pump circuit from my motor to run electric fans for remote automatic transmission cooling system to keep all of that self-contained so I don't have to pull tranny lines every time?
 
Maybe I should have a barrage of questions here? I've never used a cam bearing tool do I need a special one how do you do that? Never Honed a cylinder but I can already tell by the price I'll be getting the stone one. thing is I'll only do it a few times at the most. how big does the transmission cooler have to be to keep the transmission cool without running through the radiator? I was thinking of a auxiliary cooler with a small fan on it? I'll have more and thank you for any help.
 
j par said:
It seems like you can feel a little something but not like enough to catch a fingernail on...
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In terms of "Low" buck, you're in "High Cotton".......remove all the soft/screw in plugs, blue berry hone, soap and hot water wash, clean the oil passages, you're ready for assembly.
 
j par said:
Maybe I should have a barrage of questions here? I've never used a cam bearing tool do I need a special one how do you do that? Never Honed a cylinder but I can already tell by the price I'll be getting the stone one. thing is I'll only do it a few times at the most. how big does the transmission cooler have to be to keep the transmission cool without running through the radiator? I was thinking of a auxiliary cooler with a small fan on it? I'll have more and thank you for any help.
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Why do you think you need to change cam bearings??? Unless they are damaged/missing/gone thru block baking cycle/ big caustic cleaning vat, low buck route says don't touch them. Using a cam bearing tool is not "real hard"; line up oil holes and hammer it in; it's also "real easy" to wreck a bearing due to inexperience and you generally can't get "just one" shell replacement, so you buy another set, install the one you buggered up and then have a broken set of cam bearing sitting on a shelf in your shop/garage for 30 years................

Blue berry hone is 30 seconds per cylinder, 1/2 inch drill, gauge your stroke so you don't push it out the bottom, or pull it all the way out the top.

Trans cooler, I used one from Summit rated for 27,000 lb towing capacity
 
First, toss the three stone contraption as far as you can out the window on your next trip to Mt Hood with the sleds. Get a proper ball hone and be done with that situation. Second, get as big a cooler as you can stuff in front of the radiator. You'll want maximum cooling potential. Heat kills auto trannies...period. Especially when you're transferring high power as it creates a lot of heat in the converter.

Regarding the plug and play with the trans lines. You'll be dealing with the lines no matter what. You can make custom lines with rubber hoses so you can just stick a bolt or plug in the rubber side where it plugs into the cooler when removing this trans for the proper gearbox to go back in and roll up the rubber lines like a garden hose and secure them with a zip tie while in storage. Then, you can get little nipple covers for the inlet/outlet of the cooler so you don't have to remove it. They'll hold on just fine, I do this on power steering systems and auto tranny swaps at the dealership on a daily basis.

Regarding your question about the cooling fan for the trans cooler, I think running it off that switch for the electric water pump would be great. Especially if you place the cooler in front or behind the radiator. Then you can use a push fan in front of the pair and a pull fan behind the pair. Awesome flow . Although, you'll most likely only need one fan if you do it right the first time. So, you may just find another use for that circuit or just not use it when you have this engine in it.

And finally, with the question about the cam tool, I have nothing to add regarding this. We only have overhead cams at my dealership so I won't be able to help you there. But try this link, it has some really good info for your use in the future when you have common questions and can't find the search button on the forums
LMGTFY
 
Thank you for the advice young grasshopper! Expensive dingo ball homes are for professional mechanics like yourself who will do this job many times per year over their lifetime, but for the one-time hobbyists like me the cheap honing device suits the need. I was thinking of something you like a small transmission cooler with one of the Little Motors zip tied to it with the whole thing kind of zip ties between the K frame and the bottom of the radiator facing down that way I can be clicked out really easy and zip-tied kind of underneath the harmonic balancer when pulling it out and putting it back in. And actually the fact that you work in that "rice shop"questions my intelligence for listening! :poke:

="Hgocasca, post: 1971604089, member: 42380"]First, toss the three stone contraption as far as you can out the window on your next trip to Mt Hood with the sleds. Get a proper ball hone and be done with that situation. Second, get as big a cooler as you can stuff in front of the radiator. You'll want maximum cooling potential. Heat kills auto trannies...period. Especially when you're transferring high power as it creates a lot of heat in the converter.

Regarding the plug and play with the trans lines. You'll be dealing with the lines no matter what. You can make custom lines with rubber hoses so you can just stick a bolt or plug in the rubber side where it plugs into the cooler when removing this trans for the proper gearbox to go back in and roll up the rubber lines like a garden hose and secure them with a zip tie while in storage. Then, you can get little nipple covers for the inlet/outlet of the cooler so you don't have to remove it. They'll hold on just fine, I do this on power steering systems and auto tranny swaps at the dealership on a daily basis.

Regarding your question about the cooling fan for the trans cooler, I think running it off that switch for the electric water pump would be great. Especially if you place the cooler in front or behind the radiator. Then you can use a push fan in front of the pair and a pull fan behind the pair. Awesome flow . Although, you'll most likely only need one fan if you do it right the first time. So, you may just find another use for that circuit or just not use it when you have this engine in it.

And finally, with the question about the cam tool, I have nothing to add regarding this. We only have overhead cams at my dealership so I won't be able to help you there. But try this link, it has some really good info for your use in the future when you have common questions and can't find the search button on the forums
LMGTFY
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j par said:
Thank you for the advice young grasshopper! Expensive dingo ball homes are for professional mechanics like yourself who will do this job many times per year over their lifetime, but for the one-time hobbyists like me the cheap honing device suits the need. I was thinking of something you like a small transmission cooler with one of the Little Motors zip tied to it with the whole thing kind of zip ties between the K frame and the bottom of the radiator facing down that way I can be clicked out really easy and zip-tied kind of underneath the harmonic balancer when pulling it out and putting it back in. And actually the fact that you work in that "rice shop"questions my intelligence for listening! :poke:
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Check with your local rental store. I bet you can rent a ball hone for a few bucks.
 
That's I was thinking, and then I thought well probably be about $10 for rent and then the $10 in gas to go get it and take it back (after 4 minutes of use-30 seconds per. Cylinder) and the time and then I thought maybe if I just order one for $20 and have it for a couple uses? Oh the decisions. Being the budget build I should probably use the cheap one. Good thinking though.. thank you...
toolmanmike said:
Check with your local rental store. I bet you can rent a ball hone for a few bucks.
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I'm seeing some scoring on all the bearings and the cam bearings have some scorching also.
JBurch said:
Why do you think you need to change cam bearings??? Unless they are damaged/missing/gone thru block baking cycle/ big caustic cleaning vat, low buck route says don't touch them. Using a cam bearing tool is not "real hard"; line up oil holes and hammer it in; it's also "real easy" to wreck a bearing due to inexperience and you generally can't get "just one" shell replacement, so you buy another set, install the one you buggered up and then have a broken set of cam bearing sitting on a shelf in your shop/garage for 30 years................

Blue berry hone is 30 seconds per cylinder, 1/2 inch drill, gauge your stroke so you don't push it out the bottom, or pull it all the way out the top.

Trans cooler, I used one from Summit rated for 27,000 lb towing capacity
Click to expand...
 
Ball hones are about 60 bucks on ebay. I wouldn't count tools as part of the cost, because they can be used over and over.
 
j par said:
Thank you for the advice young grasshopper! Expensive dingo ball homes are for professional mechanics like yourself who will do this job many times per year over their lifetime, but for the one-time hobbyists like me the cheap honing device suits the need, facing down that way I can be clicked out really easy and zip-tied kind of underneath the harmonic balancer when pulling it out and putting it back in.
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Regardless of how many times a year you do it, do it right that one time. Those have no place in a cylinder in my opinion. The ball units go for $50. Cheaper than sending off the block to get fixed and the same price as another block to replace the messed up unit.

Facing the cooler downwards is not a wise option. Again, we are looking for maximum cooling effect. Upright with the most flow is ideal. Like I said, plug the nipples when not in use and you won't have to remove it.

I'm going to move past the rice comment as it's not worth the effort to humiliate you publicly for your ignorance as it relates to this conversation.
 
It's about time you posted on this thread, I know you know about this stuff! I'm really trying to get that first order to summit down to the $100 mark. Bearings rings and hone...
318willrun said:
Ball hones are about 60 bucks on ebay. I wouldn't count tools as part of the cost, because they can be used over and over.
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j par said:
It's about time you posted on this thread, I know you know about this stuff! I'm really trying to get that first order to summit down to the $100 mark. Bearings rings and hone...
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It's cool what your doing :D Like I posted earlier, it started to push me to dig out my rusted 360 block/innards to do the same. Not wise for me as I have a gunny sack full of projects already ..... LOL. Glad you didn't push me on the challenge a few pages back, or I'd have rust all over my jeans, hands, ...... LOL
 
Here's an idea young grasshopper? How about you stop smoking cigarettes for a few weeks and take that money and buy a dingleberry hone and send it my way? I was thinking when I mounted facing down I could make a little sheet metal scoop underneath that direct air up through it? What do you think of that idea? As far as the Rice Shop you work at (because of me!!) I'm not getting any horsepower Or anything like that but could you please talk about that stuff on a rice Forum where people appreciate it.. thank you very kindly :elmer:
Hgocasca said:
Regardless of how many times a year you do it, do it right that one time. Those have no place in a cylinder in my opinion. The ball units go for $50. Cheaper than sending off the block to get fixed and the same price as another block to replace the messed up unit.

Facing the cooler downwards is not a wise option. Again, we are looking for maximum cooling effect. Upright with the most flow is ideal. Like I said, plug the nipples when not in use and you won't have to remove it.

I'm going to move past the rice comment as it's not worth the effort to humiliate you publicly for your ignorance as it relates to this conversation.
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j par said:
Here's an idea young grasshopper? How about you stop smoking cigarettes for a few weeks and take that money and buy a dingleberry hone and send it my way? I was thinking when I mounted facing down I could make a little sheet metal scoop underneath that direct air up through it? What do you think of that idea? As far as the Rice Shop you work at (because of me!!) I'm not getting any horsepower Or anything like that but could you please talk about that stuff on a rice Forum where people appreciate it.. thank you very kindly :elmer:
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Just ordered one on eBay, it'll be at your door in the next week or so
 
I'd challenge a cracked Machinist before I challenge someone with good old-fashioned Shadetree knowledge LOL besides that I don't want you working on one when I need all your knowledge on mine! :thumbsup:
318willrun said:
It's cool what your doing :D Like I posted earlier, it started to push me to dig out my rusted 360 block/innards to do the same. Not wise for me as I have a gunny sack full of projects already ..... LOL. Glad you didn't push me on the challenge a few pages back, or I'd have rust all over my jeans, hands, ...... LOL
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Didn't your father ever tell you NOT to run down and f*** one of those sheep butt to walk down and f*** them all? Stop jumping the gun!
Hgocasca said:
Just ordered one on eBay, it'll be at your door in the next week or so
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