What rings would you recommend in this?Respectfully, you cannot use long-term and stock block 1100HP in the same context. I like a longer rod because it stresses the bore walls less. If you gusset-up and make the main area better, may as well reinforce the cylinder walls AT THE SAME TIME. Sonic check and either filling or sleeving anything questionable. Set the bore to where you can get GOOD THIN rings.
OK I spent time on the phon today calling KB, BME, Indy, Ritter, Callies...
Only Indy makes a low deck block and the price is 7300 before machnining and 8300 after machining. This is more than I planned to spend on everything so no aftermarket block for me.
I will give it a shot with 230 casting block.
After thinking it thru I will use 500 stroker with longer rod to avoid side loading, 4.15” crank and 6.760 rods.
Will get line2line coating on the pistons, half fill with hardblock + install BCR griddle. Rotating assembly will be dynamically balanced. This is a long therm deal but I will send updates while I’m shopping for parts and machining.
If it blows up soon after I will post that also.
Not giving up that easy. I see many builds with more power than I want living for years somehow. Hoping to be that lucky also.
I will use nitrous controller to make things as gentle as I can.
Are 440 source complete strokers a good option or should I just get Molnar crank and rods with custom coated pistons from UEM directly?
Wanted to ask about aluminum rods but it seems many people here already think I’m crazy….Before I spent money and machine work on a girdle I’d call Bill Miller and talk to him about aluminum rods on the street.
An aluminum rod will go way further to saving your block and crank than a girdle ever will.
And a crank damper that doesn’t use an elastomer.
What rings would you recommend in this?
Wanted to ask about aluminum rods but it seems many people here already think I’m crazy….
You SHOULD be able to get a .9mm in SS for first. Second .9 napier in 4.375"ish bore then a 3mm oil MahleWhat rings would you recommend in this?
You SHOULD be able to get a .9mm in SS for first. Second .9 napier in 4.375"ish bore then a 3mm oil Mahle
Wow for some reason I never got any notification about your response.Dzien dobry Mizny,
Aluminum 2 bolt caps is the easiest solution I believe?
All 4 bolt caps need a huge amount of machining work to fit...
We have done several stroker motors here in the UK with the 400 and 440 blocks.
Due to excessive 'cap-walk' we converted them with program engineering 4 bolt caps!
The 230 casting is without a doubt the BEST of the stock blocks.
Shorter stroke is always better with longer skirts.
The short skirt engines that we have run on the street with 'pump' gas have all had skirt failures!
Lower compression with shorter stroke is a must for a street engine for me!
I run a 512ci 440-block now with Edelbrock heads on pump gas and she is SWEET!
The best I engine I ever had was a 230 block with a 547 stroker that made 900hp on pump gas!
My 'avatar car' was fastest Euro street car with 8.3o @ 178mph back in the 90's...
Blocks don't last long with over 1000hp lol...
Best wishes from England
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I know.Not all 230 blocks are cold weather