6. Cylinder duster is now a 340 ignition issues wants to start when you let up on the key

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flathead31coupe said:
Thank you so much! It's great information
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with 65 amp alternator by green dot ce41

green dot.jpg
 
Thanks again.... I have to double check that I don't think I hooked up the wire that goes back to the ant meter in the dash. I believe that's a brown wire coming from the big wide black plug that has the wires for the alternator and choke etc
 
Might be good to check fuse links,see if there in place. 65 amp alternator wire threw grommet link will be at starter relay, normal alternator will come from bulk head connector cavity z ignition switch feed. Hope that makes sense.

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Mistake eye,s bad fuse link might go to cavity j instead of Z, both cavity take fuse links, not sure yet

bulk head fse bottom.jpg
 
So I know coming off the amp gauge in the dash. There's a red and black wire that go through the firewall in a small grommet. The red goes looks like to a fusible link to the starter relay and the black I believe goes around to that big white connector on the engine but I don't think I hooked it up to anything. It look like it might have went to. There's a spot where three or four wires are spliced together or welded together from the alternator wire, but I'm not sure yet till I get into it
 
flathead31coupe said:
coming off the amp gauge in the dash. There's a red and black wire that go through the firewall in a small grommet. The red goes looks like to a fusible link to the starter relay and the black I believe goes around to that big white connector on the engine
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That is a heavy duty arrangement. Probably the '65 amp' alternator option, either with or without the heated back glass.
If you post photos it will make it easier to narrow down what is on the car.
The 60 and 65 amp alternators will be indicated on the tag if its still there.

Not many of these optioned cars documented. Mostly the ones with the heated back glass but even then not '75s.
Forum member Mark has one in Switzerland but IIRC its a '74. I reminded him to follow up so fairly recent thread.

As a wiring strategy it is pretty straightforward.

The complicated wiring is the seatbelt interlock. One answer would be to wire it so it is always ridden. Same way the switch on the fender temperarily overides it.
 
See how many ring terminals are on each side of the ammeter.
On the battery side, A1D is the standard wiring connection from the bulkhead to the R terminal on the ammeter. It should have been removed (or cut and taped) when the optional wiring was installed. On the other ammeter terminal, the standard connection could have been left in place. In fact without it, I don't know how the power gets to the key switch.
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Bugman said:
J1 12r ignition switch feed fuse link j1 18 gy/r cavity Z cavity j fuse link A1C 18DBL To starter relay
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Mattax is right, fuse link in place start relay good, One fuse link left cavity Z ignition switch feed. Is it there or plain wire
 
Mattax said:
See how many ring terminals are on each side of the ammeter.
On the battery side, A1D is the standard wiring connection from the bulkhead to the R terminal on the ammeter. It should have been removed (or cut and taped) when the optional wiring was installed. On the other ammeter terminal, the standard connection could have been left in place. In fact without it, I don't know how the power gets to the key switch.
View attachment 1716113937
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It has two ring terminals on the amp gauge, one red and one black. They look to be original
 
Mattax said:
That is a heavy duty arrangement. Probably the '65 amp' alternator option, either with or without the heated back glass.
If you post photos it will make it easier to narrow down what is on the car.
The 60 and 65 amp alternators will be indicated on the tag if its still there.

Not many of these optioned cars documented. Mostly the ones with the heated back glass but even then not '75s.
Forum member Mark has one in Switzerland but IIRC its a '74. I reminded him to follow up so fairly recent thread.

As a wiring strategy it is pretty straightforward.

The complicated wiring is the seatbelt interlock. One answer would be to wire it so it is always ridden. Same way the switch on the fender temperarily overides it.
Click to expand...
It has no heated back glass but it does have the seat belt wiring stuff. It must have been bypassed or something because I can get the car started like it should. I'm just trying to get amp gauge in the dash to work
 
This shows both the heavy duty alternator wiring and the standard wiring.
Should be just one 16 gage fusible link connected between the battery and the ammeter.

1689215565033.png

For the J1 to get power, the only connection on the diagram we've identified is the fusible link at Z on the bulkhead.
If that's correct, R6A must remain connected to either R6, or R6C and R6D, or all of them.
 
flathead31coupe said:
It must have been bypassed or something because I can get the car started like it should.
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I thought that starting was an intermittent problem.

flathead31coupe said:
I'm just trying to get amp gauge in the dash to work
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Did not know that.

Someone probably connected the battery positive to the alternator output. Follow any wires from the starter relay junction as well as from the battery positive terminal. Could even run from the starter connection.
They may not have used any fusible link. :(
 
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This would be the simplest way to reconnect using the optional 10 and 8 gage wires.
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Wire A1B and the fusible link could be removed or left in place. Seems the factory would leave them, but it would be less confusing to remove the dead end.

Make sure the ammeter studs aren't loose. Also Redfish has reported that some early 70s cars often had leaks above that area corroding ammeter and other connections. I don't know if that was fixed by 75, but worth looking out for.
 
Thanks everyone for all the help. It started out as a starting problem but with the wiring diagrams you guys provided. I hooked everything up as it was originally with the four wire ballast and it starts right up. I'm just butting up the little things now
 
flathead31coupe said:
It has two ring terminals on the amp gauge, one red and one black. They look to be original
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They might have cut and taped the R6D.
1689216572643.png

Not sure what the advantage of cutting it was thought to be.
Leaving it connected provides a second path to the J1, the headlights an dthe fusebox.

Here's some pics of Mark's '74 with the optional wiring and heated back glass. We see they left standard wires in place on the engine compartment side.
www.forabodiesonly.com

65amp wiring/trouble shooting

Since my amp gauge wires melted a bit I'm thinking about an amp gauge bypass. I still have two wires in good shape from another dash to replace the burnt ones but imo this doesnt solve the problem. The thing is that I have no idea about electrical stuff at all and I don't wanna burn down my car...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
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