**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

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1bad360duster said:
What kind of timing are you running base on motor and n20 for the duster. I would have to think it’s harder on parts with high compression and n20 then the turbo
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I run 34 total and pull 10 degrees on the sauce.
mshred said:
Thats awesome, thank you for sharing. Are you turning the timing down on the street with both to run pump gas, or driving them on race fuel? I think truly anyone pushing stock block setups has to be very wary of detonation,regardless of engine platform...sometimes less is more, and this is one of those times for sure. Is the duster also a stock stroke 70 block?
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The turbo car since it has Holley EFI and its 9:1 I run 45-48 degrees at part throttle so it will run cooler on 91 octane. If you go look at my build thread you can see how I set up a dual fuel system. I run on wastegate spring pressure on the street (2psi) and use a C02 powered boost controller on the track. BTW when I forget to turn on the C02 the car runs 10.30/135 on 2psi lol (436” motor now). The Duster runs on C14+ at all times because of the compression. The Duster has an old forged crank from Mopar 3.58 stroke 4.070 bore which makes it 372.
 
turbodart68 said:
I run 34 total and pull 10 degrees on the sauce.

The turbo car since it has Holley EFI and its 9:1 I run 45-48 degrees at part throttle so it will run cooler on 91 octane. If you go look at my build thread you can see how I set up a dual fuel system. I run on wastegate spring pressure on the street (2psi) and use a C02 powered boost controller on the track. BTW when I forget to turn on the C02 the car runs 10.30/135 on 2psi lol (436” motor now). The Duster runs on C14+ at all times because of the compression. The Duster has an old forged crank from Mopar 3.58 stroke 4.070 bore which makes it 372.
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Very cool combos man! Im wiring in Holley efi right now in mine. The blocks doont sound exotic, what about the cylinder heads on these monsters?
 
mshred said:
Very cool combos man! Im wiring in Holley efi right now in mine. The blocks doont sound exotic, what about the cylinder heads on these monsters?
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Thanks. The Duster has a 372” W2 and the Dart has a Ritter block 436” with W5. The 436 is still new with about 20 passes on it but at 20psi it has been 8.0 at 176 at Vegas which is 2000 foot altitude. The Gen 3 Hemi is really good. I have a few buddies doing well with their combos. As far as the Holley install goes, here is some unsolicited advice. Run big battery cable from the battery to your heads and block. I spent a year trying to figure what my problem was. Turned out the Holley is very sensitive to EMI noise.
 
turbodart68 said:
Thanks. The Duster has a 372” W2 and the Dart has a Ritter block 436” with W5. The 436 is still new with about 20 passes on it but at 20psi it has been 8.0 at 176 at Vegas which is 2000 foot altitude. The Gen 3 Hemi is really good. I have a few buddies doing well with their combos. As far as the Holley install goes, here is some unsolicited advice. Run big battery cable from the battery to your heads and block. I spent a year trying to figure what my problem was. Turned out the Holley is very sensitive to EMI noise.
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Nice! And thank you, I've read about EMI noise issues with them on a facebook Holley tech group, so better to be safe than chase my tail. I'll add it to the list of to do for this winter.
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, all have heard all this "talk" that a SBM Block has a limit of 600HP before it Grenades, as far as I know it is all BS. I am not saying the it is not true but would like some actual proof from an end user.

Post your Broken Block Pictures along with a Story as to How it actually did Fail or Break and at What Power Level.
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We getting this back on track I guess this has been proven false over and over again about 600 horsepower being the max for “STOCK BLOCK” builds. We all know R3’s can handle it. The post kinda wondered away for stock blocks.
 
turbodart68 said:
No. Plus the ones out there are mostly low deck ones. The Ritter is pretty much the only game in town. And it is an amazing block at that.
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How much work is required to get a Ritter block ready to build. I know for awhile guys were sending them to certain shops to have issues resolved.
 
pittsburghracer said:
How much work is required to get a Ritter block ready to build. I know for awhile guys were sending them to certain shops to have issues resolved.
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It needed some work. It wasnt very expensive. He also shipped it to my machine shop that had bought two others and saved is a ton of money in shipping. It needed bore/hone, decked, lifter bore final hone and bellhousing indexing. All in I had just over 4k in it.
 
turbodart68 said:
It needed some work. It wasnt very expensive. He also shipped it to my machine shop that had bought two others and saved is a ton of money in shipping. It needed bore/hone, decked, lifter bore final hone and bellhousing indexing. All in I had just over 4k in it.
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Is that 4k in addition to the purchase price or including?
 
Personally after Shiloh’s and Jeff’s experience I’d NEVER purchase a “used” Ritter….. I almost went down that rabbit hole early on, but was “persuaded“ to just go R3 since i worked at a dealer and all. Ahhhh…. The days of getting a race block shipped to my door step for 2k. Those were the days :)
…..that said the newer Ritter blocks have seem to have been “corrected” and there are some serious rides out there running them.

“If” I were going Ritter out here in the west it’d be going to QMP without a doubt!!
 
Speaking of “flow” how good is the mopar “420”? …..yeah, that GOOD!

E3D07FE3-6FD1-4311-8649-41CF82D8CB9E.jpeg
 
A body said:
Personally after Shiloh’s and Jeff’s experience I’d NEVER purchase a “used” Ritter….. I almost went down that rabbit hole early on, but was “persuaded“ to just go R3 since i worked at a dealer and all. Ahhhh…. The days of getting a race block shipped to my door step for 2k. Those were the days :)
…..that said the newer Ritter blocks have seem to have been “corrected” and there are some serious rides out there running them.

“If” I were going Ritter out here in the west it’d be going to QMP without a doubt!!
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Im not sure what you are talking about but mine was a new casting from Ritter. Shiloh is local to me and I have talked to him a few times about his combo. He is a really nice guy to talk to. As far as dealing with Ritter, He was a real pleasure to deal with. Very very helpful. He sold me things like a timing cover and camshafts when no one had them and at great prices. I would definitely buy from him again. I have made well over 1500 horsepower at the wheels with this motor and it shows zero distress. IMM Engines in Indio California did my machine work and its flawless. In a world where the path isn't clear information is hard to find these two companies helped me make huge power with a platform where everyone said it wasn't possible.
 
I just see people selling Ritter blocks from time to time. I’d personally pass on any “second hand” deal and order new. I’ve seen Shilohs old block and Jeff Allison’s never made it off the dyno due to it not keeping its fluids separated…. so basically I “agree” with you. Buy a new one. Robert Whited’s Ritter was running B/gas like a boss at CHHR this past weekend.
btw are you going to the MRM event at Irwindale in nov? Pretty sure we’ll be there
 
A body said:
I guess I mixed this post up with the “best flowing” debacle…
sorry if you misinterpreted my sarcasm.
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No worries, you’ve always been good people on the board here and been first class with me from jump street. It was weird to read and I wondered, blew it off and laughed after I replied. I was thinking half of that wasn’t for me.
 
A body said:
I just see people selling Ritter blocks from time to time. I’d personally pass on any “second hand” deal and order new. I’ve seen Shilohs old block and Jeff Allison’s never made it off the dyno due to it not keeping its fluids separated…. so basically I “agree” with you. Buy a new one. Robert Whited’s Ritter was running B/gas like a boss at CHHR this past weekend.
btw are you going to the MRM event at Irwindale in nov? Pretty sure we’ll be there
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I won't be there. I have to get my new turbo kit built. Then I have to start testing for Sickweek in February.
 
Supershafts said:
Well i got no pics, but if your looking for more than 600hp i know that using mounts on the block will show the walls are effected by using a mount...same holds true for the bb's
So you want to use ears when you get beyond 450hp...
Are you using a la or mag.... i wouldn't trust a mag block
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Ok, I'll bite, why wouldn't you use a mag block ?
 
Marty (Supershafts) has not posted since 2015. I don’t think you’ll get an answer, who knows though?!?!
 
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