63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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re sealing the freeze plugs..... i always mix a little epoxy and smear it round the hole and the rim of the plug, then install as normal. if i happen to be using steel plugs i smear it over the whole 'inside' face too. epoxy won't rust through, lol.
neil.
 
Once you assemble "all that" I would let it sit at least 24 hours to cure good.
 
re sealing the freeze plugs..... i always mix a little epoxy and smear it round the hole and the rim of the plug, then install as normal. if i happen to be using steel plugs i smear it over the whole 'inside' face too. epoxy won't rust through, lol.
neil.
She's using brass, which won't rust, but a lot of early Hemi guys use JB Weld to seal the plugs on those blocks. They actually have convex welch plugs that install and must be flattened a little with a hammer to wedge them in.
 
hm, ok, are they then a permanent installation? just JB and nothing else?

re sealing the freeze plugs..... i always mix a little epoxy and smear it round the hole and the rim of the plug, then install as normal. if i happen to be using steel plugs i smear it over the whole 'inside' face too. epoxy won't rust through, lol.
neil.
 
i wouldn't use jb weld, i prefer epoxy. and no it's not permanent, they'll still push out if the coolant freezes. mind you nobody here runs just water for coolant....... do they? :rofl:
Not to argue, but they were never designed to push out when the water freezes. All they are there for is to seal the holes up that were used in the casting process. In all my years I have yet to see one push out and save a block.
 
She's using brass, which won't rust, but a lot of early Hemi guys use JB Weld to seal the plugs on those blocks. They actually have convex welch plugs that install and must be flattened a little with a hammer to wedge them in.
yes i had to do some of those on a '58 cadillac last year. there was a step in the machined hole so the plug goes in as far as the step then you give it a clout in the middle to flatten/expand it as you say.
neil.
 
Not to argue, but they were never designed to push out when the water freezes. All they are there for is to seal the holes up that were used in the casting process. In all my years I have yet to see one push out and save a block.
yeah i know that, but they are 'always' referred to as freeze plugs, lol. they do push out though, like a metal hat on a thick icicle :rofl:
neil.
 
yeah i know that, but they are 'always' referred to as freeze plugs, lol. they do push out though, like a metal hat on a thick icicle :rofl:
neil.
Never seen it happen. But yeah that's what they're called.
 
Doah~ why did I say JB weld! I don't think I've ever bought epoxy, like epoxy just for metal? isn't JB weld kind an epoxy?
 
so it's ok to use JB, cause I have it here, but be a couple days before the "freeze" plugs arrive
 
here in the uk the common brand is araldite but there's many others too. just look for epoxy resin glue.
neil.

Had to look up Faversham;) Whoa, that's a long way! How neat to communicate with you so far away;) But then everyone is a long way away :lol:

faversham.jpg
 
I hope you guys don't think I'm incapable of doing things, just need the confidence boost sometimes especially on something I don't want to have to repeat AGAIN!
I saw somewhere were the rear main was "offset"? like 3/16" up on one side and recessed on the other side, then the rear main seal bracket seal is offset the same way? This make sense?

Anyway, the sad part is don't actually know where the driplet was coming from other than it was on the passenger side. Tightening the pan bolts didn't do anything unless not sealed well enough where rubber gasket meets the cork(why does that sound funny!")

I should have the seals tomorrow and will clean these parts spic n span.

Gotta get making hamburgers;) brb

View attachment 1716350946
I would also check the rear seal as it looks like the lip is pointed to the rear. I do believe it should face into the engine. I cannot tell real well as I enlarge the picture my glasses cannot see as clearly as I would like.
 
JB Weld will create an awesome seal, so incredible that if you are ever in a position to remove and replace it... good luck! The Permatex I suggested seals quite well, but allows you to remove the plug later. I'm sure other compounds will accomplish the same goal.
 
As far as the 2-piece rubber rear main seal alignment, the argument for the slight offset is so the seam between the 2 rubber pieces do not align with the 2 pieces of the block/cap. This allegedly reduces the propensity for leaks. I always offset them slightly, but apparently there are successful ways to get them to seal aligning them with the block/cap.
 
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