Well you could appease Gary’s desire for red and add a red pinstripe with tape or have it pinstriped in paint .
63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)
- Thread starter Dne007
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Dang it your dash brings back memories of my ‘63 & ‘64 Darts and lends its self to the vent locations. My ‘66 Dart with a/c doesn’t neither does the ‘66 Barracuda dash I have .
Now I wonder am I going to have to find a complete ‘63-4 manual transmission dash ?
It’s the dang a/c vacuum control buttons that are the conundrum .
Of course I could just ditch the factory a/c system and go aftermarket…..
Now I wonder am I going to have to find a complete ‘63-4 manual transmission dash ?
It’s the dang a/c vacuum control buttons that are the conundrum .
Of course I could just ditch the factory a/c system and go aftermarket…..
Would you believe that was Jimmy Buffett's (RIP) first and only #1 hit? True story.oh oh, reminds me of that song, "its 5 o'clock somewhere", love that song!! I just put it on~ how relaxing
I have that on DVD, may just watch that this weekend, what a different time..... a bit corny, but fun & interesting..
I feel like I accomplished something today, the fan shroud, I think it will work just fine, a pain to install, but not that bad. I covered my not so pretty welds with some super body epoxy, then drill the necessary holes a little larger for "adjustment". hm, what's next? ;)
As said, a nice bead of epoxy to cover my not so pretty welds
This was just a test fit, install, remove, install, remove, etc.
using cardboard as templates, oh, had some scrap metal left over from the right rear quarter panel repair~ never throw anything away!!
As said, a nice bead of epoxy to cover my not so pretty welds
This was just a test fit, install, remove, install, remove, etc.
using cardboard as templates, oh, had some scrap metal left over from the right rear quarter panel repair~ never throw anything away!!
I want you guys to know this is still in the rough phases of developement, I really enjoy this stuff~
The wood piece represents the future strengthening plate, this one I have to redo, but gives the idea. The wood will go between the firewall, then the plate, then the steering column keeper. I'm hoping the
I was going to put the plate on the other side of the firewall, but changed my mind.
This is where it gets a little irritating~ I'll have to make some sort of "washer" for both of these.
This is the stock Bronco II mc end. I just opened it up a tiny bit and it popped onto the nub~ it's a pain to get off. I do have mopar clutch rod retainer coming, hope it will fit onto it.
I was focusing on the depth of the clutch rod, yes I drilled extra holes too (doah), forgot to push the mc to the top of the hole, it needed that. The bolts will go through the strengtheng plate, it won't look like
this otherwise the firewall may flex without it.
The rod does travel the entire depth 1 5/8, so it should be good I hope.
The wood piece represents the future strengthening plate, this one I have to redo, but gives the idea. The wood will go between the firewall, then the plate, then the steering column keeper. I'm hoping the
I was going to put the plate on the other side of the firewall, but changed my mind.
This is where it gets a little irritating~ I'll have to make some sort of "washer" for both of these.
This is the stock Bronco II mc end. I just opened it up a tiny bit and it popped onto the nub~ it's a pain to get off. I do have mopar clutch rod retainer coming, hope it will fit onto it.
I was focusing on the depth of the clutch rod, yes I drilled extra holes too (doah), forgot to push the mc to the top of the hole, it needed that. The bolts will go through the strengtheng plate, it won't look like
this otherwise the firewall may flex without it.
The rod does travel the entire depth 1 5/8, so it should be good I hope.
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plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
What's the bore size of that bronco mc? Will it be enough to move the hydraulic tob?
I see one is .875 and another is 7/8. , I’ll look more into later;)
mygasser
Well-Known Member
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
lol yes same size;). Need to talk to Jeff today about this
Hi, yeah I know~ I'll be on this for a while
Template time~ it's easy to do this with no dash, brake assembly out of the way, the pattern is a little higher where the CMC (clutch master cylinder) comes out due to the angle of the dangle
The white material is 3/16 aluminum sandwiched by the steering column retainer, still had mod the CMC hole in an oval fashion. Once I'm happy with the aluminum
piece, I'll buy some 1/4" plate, get Gary to buy me a new plasma cutter, then I'll make it myself. May not be a pretty as the one that do it professionally.
this is pretty much how it will look~ getting the angle of the CMC is a little challenging. just noticed I have the steering column plate upside down! grr
A couple things here, I need a shim with an angle to it, like 1/16 to 1/4", however cut up bondo spreaders work pretty good.
A far fetch thought was to take my porta power and push the firewall from the ledge where the back seat is and push it forwardly. But shims would be
safer I suppose. Fabricating this to be with reproducible results is quite challenging.
Once i'm happy, I can order the hydraulic T.O. bearing, but will be a couple weeks as we're leaving for Philly in a few days
Took a couple more pics~ pics make the world go around ;)
Template time~ it's easy to do this with no dash, brake assembly out of the way, the pattern is a little higher where the CMC (clutch master cylinder) comes out due to the angle of the dangle
The white material is 3/16 aluminum sandwiched by the steering column retainer, still had mod the CMC hole in an oval fashion. Once I'm happy with the aluminum
piece, I'll buy some 1/4" plate, get Gary to buy me a new plasma cutter, then I'll make it myself. May not be a pretty as the one that do it professionally.
this is pretty much how it will look~ getting the angle of the CMC is a little challenging. just noticed I have the steering column plate upside down! grr
A couple things here, I need a shim with an angle to it, like 1/16 to 1/4", however cut up bondo spreaders work pretty good.
A far fetch thought was to take my porta power and push the firewall from the ledge where the back seat is and push it forwardly. But shims would be
safer I suppose. Fabricating this to be with reproducible results is quite challenging.
Once i'm happy, I can order the hydraulic T.O. bearing, but will be a couple weeks as we're leaving for Philly in a few days
Took a couple more pics~ pics make the world go around ;)
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
A few questions. Have you considered making your stiffening plate from steel that is the same thickness as the factory plate for the steering column support? If so, you should be able to get some thick tubular spacers from the hardware isle at Ace Hardware, cut them to the correct length to fit into the recessed area and put it between the top bolt on the outside of the firewall, between the CMC and the firewall. You have to nip the bottom corner off the tubular spacer to make it fit right, but it may work. Last question....does the CMC rod make a straight push from the clutch pedal, or does it even need to? It looks straight in one pic, but at a slight angle in the other is why I asked. Eat a Philly Cheese Steak sammich for me while you're there. I just had a killer one at my favorite place close by.
Have you considered making your stiffening plate from steel that is the same thickness as the factory plate for the steering column support? If so, you should be able to get some thick tubular spacers from the hardware isle at Ace Hardware, cut them to the correct length to fit into the recessed area and put it between the top bolt on the outside of the firewall, between the CMC and the firewall. You have to nip the bottom corner off the tubular spacer to make it fit right, but it may work. Last question....does the CMC rod make a straight push from the clutch pedal, or does it even need to? It looks straight in one pic, but at a slight angle in the other is why I asked. Eat a Philly Cheese Steak sammich for me while you're there. I just had a killer one at my favorite place close by.
Hey JD, The aluminum plate in the pic was just for mocking up the "plate", it will be steel, but thickness? I really don't know how thick it should be. The firewall does contribute some considerable strength? So, maybe just 3/16? The tubular spacers~ Thank you for that idea 
! That's been bugging me.
The clutch rod angle? I don't know what it is, is the firewall untrue? you see that it takes at least 1/4 in the right spot to bring the cmc into alignment. So depending on which picture you see, it could be off a tad, or just an illusion, or play on vision, and seems like most pictures I take, the pics come out a tad distorted. In the picture you can just make out what it takes to bring the cmc into good alignment. I have found sheet metal shims, kind of like the shims you get at Lowes for woodwork. I mentioned a far out idea of pushing strategically(guessing) with my porta power and push it out, but may wind up worse off. or maybe just a good whack with a block of work to lessen that gap. Whether it be shims, beating it, it will be "fixed";)
I had been thinking the idea of an external slave cylinder(not everyone would want to pull their transmission), just looks like nothing would work. I'll elaborate more on this a little later.
My setup is kind of working at this point, the most important thing now, install a throw out bearing, it will disengage the clutch like it's supposed to, may drag a bit, or not work at all. Even though Jeff is giving me 10% off, it's still almost 400 bucks and I don't get to return it like on Amazon.
Other: My 67 Mustang has the hydraulic setup, Mcleod slave, and releases about 1" from the floor~ never could get it any higher.
thank you for the questions
! That's been bugging me. The clutch rod angle? I don't know what it is, is the firewall untrue? you see that it takes at least 1/4 in the right spot to bring the cmc into alignment. So depending on which picture you see, it could be off a tad, or just an illusion, or play on vision, and seems like most pictures I take, the pics come out a tad distorted. In the picture you can just make out what it takes to bring the cmc into good alignment. I have found sheet metal shims, kind of like the shims you get at Lowes for woodwork. I mentioned a far out idea of pushing strategically(guessing) with my porta power and push it out, but may wind up worse off. or maybe just a good whack with a block of work to lessen that gap. Whether it be shims, beating it, it will be "fixed";)
I had been thinking the idea of an external slave cylinder(not everyone would want to pull their transmission), just looks like nothing would work. I'll elaborate more on this a little later.
My setup is kind of working at this point, the most important thing now, install a throw out bearing, it will disengage the clutch like it's supposed to, may drag a bit, or not work at all. Even though Jeff is giving me 10% off, it's still almost 400 bucks and I don't get to return it like on Amazon.
Other: My 67 Mustang has the hydraulic setup, Mcleod slave, and releases about 1" from the floor~ never could get it any higher.
thank you for the questions
MCLEOD REPLACEMENT HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING 23 SPLINE - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists
MCLEOD REPLACEMENT HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING 23 SPLINE
www.brewersperformance.com
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I think I would use the same thickness steel as the steering column support, or only slightly thicker. I would shy away from welding the two plates together, so if you ever have to service one system or the other, you don't have to disassemble both to get either one out. You could make another one the same size as the mounting surface of the plastic CMC and mount it between the CMC and firewall to keep stress off the plastic on that side. That way it is supported on both sides. In the pic right above, the top bolt to the right that goes over the dip in the firewall is where I was talking about putting the tubular spacer. The other bolt shouldn't need one since it's on a flat surface. I'll shut up and quit creating work for you...lol. I was a power lineman my whole adult life and tried my best to over build every pole so I never had to go back and do rework. It kinda bled over into my car hobby! 
I think it’s a wonderful trait Jd, hm. Guess I need to go by the steel supply store, they have neat things;)
Here's what I wanna know. Why on EARTH are you even askin US for advice when you can do work like this? This thing is gonna be one of the coolest builds on here. It's gonna be really nice.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
re an external slave..... we've done a few cable to hydraulic conversions and often find there's not room to mount the slave so it can push on the release arm. we found wilwood do a 'pull' type slave cylinder, it's really slim and has the pull rod one end and a stud for mounting the other. it allowed us to fit a slave the other side of the arm which got us out of trouble. plus i think a hydraulic release bearing is a ridiculous idea from a servicing point of view.
neil.
neil.
Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: Slave Cylinder
Wilwood makes a wide assortment of small, lightweight master cylinders that are suitable for high performance street and racing applications and they are available in a variety of bore sizes. This page displays Master Cylinders: Slave Cylinder
www.wilwood.com
It's just nice to have re-assurance during a build, I'm in uncharted territory and really appreciate the advice during the journey~ I wouldn't be here if I knew everything but I do the appreciate awesome compliment
but I do the appreciate awesome compliment
This is good information~ I was thinking that perhaps if/when a regular throw out bearing starts howling, one still has to remove the transmission, but it's much less money vs a Mcleod hydraulic T.O. bearing. I'm thinking to put the transmission back in temporarily just to visualize the situation.
Other, but related:
I'm having great difficulty locating a diaphram pressure plate. I found one on ebay, but the price and shipping seem a little high for a used product. I thought I had found one on ebay, got it and though it was advertised as a diaphram pressure plate, it was the finger type The diaphram pressure plate is highly recommended when using the hydraulics.
a 63-65 dart clutch on ebay. wrong disc, but correct pressure plate:
This is what I have from Rock Auto, it was a close out, total was 62 including shipping. LUK 05004. At that point I thought I was going to use the manual type. The friction plate is 9 1/4, so the disc is usable.
Other, but related:
I'm having great difficulty locating a diaphram pressure plate. I found one on ebay, but the price and shipping seem a little high for a used product. I thought I had found one on ebay, got it and though it was advertised as a diaphram pressure plate, it was the finger type
The diaphram pressure plate is highly recommended when using the hydraulics.re an external slave..... we've done a few cable to hydraulic conversions and often find there's not room to mount the slave so it can push on the release arm. we found wilwood do a 'pull' type slave cylinder, it's really slim and has the pull rod one end and a stud for mounting the other. it allowed us to fit a slave the other side of the arm which got us out of trouble. plus i think a hydraulic release bearing is a ridiculous idea from a servicing point of view.
neil.
Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: Slave Cylinder
Wilwood makes a wide assortment of small, lightweight master cylinders that are suitable for high performance street and racing applications and they are available in a variety of bore sizes. This page displays Master Cylinders: Slave Cylinderwww.wilwood.com
a 63-65 dart clutch on ebay. wrong disc, but correct pressure plate:
This is what I have from Rock Auto, it was a close out, total was 62 including shipping. LUK 05004. At that point I thought I was going to use the manual type. The friction plate is 9 1/4, so the disc is usable.
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
i would be more concerned about a hydraulic leak than a new throwout bearing failing. at least an external slave gets some airflow to keep it cooler.
neil.
neil.
The slave cylinder that Gasser put up a couple posts ago. I just wonder if 1.375 is enough pull? If I could incorporate it
I wish I knew how far the clutch arm has to travel to disengage.
Looking at the pic of the lever while in the car, room looks limited
Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: Slave Cylinder
Wilwood makes a wide assortment of small, lightweight master cylinders that are suitable for high performance street and racing applications and they are available in a variety of bore sizes. This page displays Master Cylinders: Slave Cylinder
www.wilwood.com
I wish I knew how far the clutch arm has to travel to disengage.
Looking at the pic of the lever while in the car, room looks limited
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