64-65 Hemi swap? Anyone do it with the stock K-Member?

[MonkeyMadness]

I'm looking for any info on this swap with the stock K-member on a Narrow/early A-body.
Kind late to the hemi swap game. Built my car for a magnum swap w/ 46re. But have a line on an 06 5.7 w/ 545RFE trans. and swap kit.
I've heard some chatter about being able to use the /6 K-member but can't find any early A builds to back it up. I don't mind going out on a limb and winging it but I would at least like to know it can be done. Not worried about the a/c or the p/s pumps they will not be used.

Thanks ahead of time for any and all comment or info.

Oh and I have not purchased this setup "yet." It will depend on a lot of the feed back I get from this thread and if I can sweet talk my wife enough not to notice the funding used. Wish me luck

thanks

 

[Professor Fate]

It's been done with a stock K, but I can't find the particular thread I'm thinking of. Most used aftermarket Ks. Here's a few:
Tincup's 63 Dart w/5.7 Hemi
Supercharged 6.4L in a 64 Valiant
I also think member @TheGreatGazoo is in the middle of a similar swap right now?

 

[MonkeyMadness]

It's been done with a stock K, but I can't find the particular thread I'm thinking of. Most used aftermarket Ks. Here's a few:
Tincup's 63 Dart w/5.7 Hemi
Supercharged 6.4L in a 64 Valiant
I also think member @TheGreatGazoo is in the middle of a similar swap right now?

Thanks this will help. I'm going tomorrow after work to look at the motor and trans. Pretty sure I'll be coming home with it. I've already found a buyer for my 5.9/46RE
Surprisingly the Wife didn't put up any kind of fight... lol My "Honey Do list" did get much bigger

 

[chryslerfat]

Not sure if you knew the early A has the same K for /6 and 273.

 

[MonkeyMadness]

Not sure if you knew the early A has the same K for /6 and 273.

Yea, I guess I just looking for a build that used the stock K just to get a few pointers. Like I noticed all the gen3 swap mounts only go back as far as 67 fitment and I'm trying to figure out if that's due to the K-member motor mounting location or the narrow fender wells?
-Unless I'm wrong the mounting "holes" for the motor mounts on the early K's are in the same location as the later K's that use the biscuit style mounts. From what I understand the /6 mount didn't change between the two K's (narrow 64-66 vs. wide 67 n up) until the spool mount upgrade.... So in theory "if" this is true the 67 gen3 mounts should bolt directly to the early (narrow) k's no problem. Meaning the only fitment issue would be the fender wells? upper shock mounts? ?????

 

[chryslerfat]

Yea, I'm guess I just looking for a build that used the stock K just to get a few pointers. Like I noticed all the gen3 swap mounts only go back as far as 67 fitment and I'm trying to figure out if that's due to the K-member motor mounting location or the narrow fender wells?
-Unless I'm wrong the mounting "holes" for the motor mounts on the early K's are in the same location as the later K's that use the biscuit style mounts. From what I understand the /6 mount didn't change between the two K's (narrow 64-66 vs. wide 67 n up) until the spool mount upgrade.... So in theory "if" this is true the 67 gen3 mounts should bolt directly to the early (narrow) k's no problem. Meaning the only fitment issue would be the fender wells? upper shock mounts? ?????

Correst on the mount location and I agree the fenderwells etc. would be the difference.

 

[KosmicKuda]

Meaning the only fitment issue would be the fender wells? upper shock mounts? ?????

You are concentrating on physically fitting the engine but don't forget the exhaust!
And steering shaft!
And removing most of the trans tunnel!

On 67 and newer swaps the steering shaft just barely clears the rear-most valve cover lower corner. That's after shortening the approx 2-1/4" tube that contains the lower bearing. A little grinding of the valve cover corner helps as does reducing the 1" diameter shaft. The column mounting holes can be elongated a little to shift everything outboard a little.
It could be a lot worse on the narrower A-body. It may require after market column and 2-3 u-joints street rod style.

I'm not trying to discourage you, just the opposite. I hope you move ahead with this.

 

[DionR]

I would look at Tincup's build pretty closely to see what he had to do to fit the motor. Pretty sure he notched the inner fender to be able to get the valve cover off and the frame rail to fit the exhaust.

Don't think there are any manufacturers for headers to put a 5.7 in an early A-Body.

If you use a car timing cover, almost certain you will have to notch the frame rail for the alternator. I know the later cars sometimes get away without it, while other's need a small one. Being that your frame rails are like 2.5" closer together, I bet you need a good sized one. But a truck cover with the alternator up top would solve this (I think). Might be info in Tincup's thread about this, too.

I'm unsure if the steering box moved out when they widened the rails, but if it didn't then the box should be in the same spot. But I know the column is angled on the later cars, so it will probably be even closer to the cylinder head than in the later cars. My gut says the box is closer to the motor and will be an issue with a 5.7, but I'm just guessing.

Selling your blower manifold with the 5.9?

 

[MonkeyMadness]

You are concentrating on physically fitting the engine but don't forget the exhaust!
And steering shaft!
And removing most of the trans tunnel!

On 67 and newer swaps the steering shaft just barely clears the rear-most valve cover lower corner. That's after shortening the approx 2-1/4" tube that contains the lower bearing. A little grinding of the valve cover corner helps as does reducing the 1" diameter shaft. The column mounting holes can be elongated a little to shift everything outboard a little.
It could be a lot worse on the narrower A-body. It may require after market column and 2-3 u-joints street rod style.

I'm not trying to discourage you, just the opposite. I hope you move ahead with this.

Yes I have taken into account of the steering setup. My current build I have a EPAS setup with the power unit mounted under the dash and a 3/4 shaft from a rav4. Shifting this a bit would not be much of a issue as well as adding a few joints.
As for the trans tunnel the 545RFE isn't "that much" bigger than the 46RE that's fitted to my build now and I've moved the tunnel quite a bit, Hope I may only need a small amount of mod to make it fit. if its more of an issue I'll retain the 46re and just use a standalone controller for it.
yea... Exhaust manifold that's my hang up at the moment. As much as I hate the idea, the stock log manifolds my be my best bet. Cutting the ball flange mount and rewelding it on to get more of a downward angel might be the ticket or we say screw it a flip the manifolds and turbo the piss out of it could be fun.... lol

 

[MonkeyMadness]

Selling your blower manifold with the 5.9?

Its available, And would entertain offers... It has everything it needs from modified harness and fuel lines to oil pan.

 

[KosmicKuda]

I didn't realize your car was so far along. I assumed you were starting from scratch.

Check out Blake's videos here.
There is one showing the smaller Jeep alternator mounted in a different location. This avoids frame rail notching which is not the big deal everyone makes it in my opinion.

Also, he has a video comparing manifolds.

https://www.diyhemi.com/just-the-tip

 

[MonkeyMadness]

I didn't realize your car was so far along. I assumed you were starting from scratch.

Check out Blake's videos here.
There is one showing the smaller Jeep alternator mounted in a different location. This avoids frame rail notching which is not the big deal everyone makes it in my opinion.

Also, he has a video comparing manifolds.

https://www.diyhemi.com/just-the-tip

Nice, I also found last night a few relocation options for the alt. Holley makes 2 different options for moving it north of its current location. I also found a power steering pump delete pulley that should make all this much easier on the fitment. My biggest worry is the fender wells and the exhaust manifolds at the moment.

Here is a picture of the Motor I'm getting tonight.

This is the two transmissions first it the 46RE I have, and on the other is the 545RFE I'm getting as well.

These are the alt relocation mount Holley offers. I like the 1st one but depending on the fender wells clearance the 2nd one maybe what I use.

 

[MonkeyMadness]

I didn't realize your car was so far along. I assumed you were starting from scratch.

Check out Blake's videos here.
There is one showing the smaller Jeep alternator mounted in a different location. This avoids frame rail notching which is not the big deal everyone makes it in my opinion.

Also, he has a video comparing manifolds.

https://www.diyhemi.com/just-the-tip

Ha, the motor I'm getting is out of a jeep Commander and has installed already (see the motor picture above) the smaller Alternator assembly. I may not have to worry about it at all....
If i do it would be this setup

 

[DionR]

Its available, And would entertain offers... It has everything it needs from modified harness and fuel lines to oil pan.

I was looking forward to seeing you run that blower. I'd love to jump on it but really need to finish some other projects on the car. But maybe I will go back and re-read what all you did/have.

 

[DionR]

Here is a picture of the Motor I'm getting tonight.
View attachment 1715749101

Looks like a sweet package.

Only thing I would add to it is a cam. The 5.7 is kind of a truck motor and I always wished mine pulled a little farther up rather than run out of steam at 5200 rpm. Not that it wouldn't be fun either way, but I would want something more 6.4 like if it was mine (maybe a 6.1 cam?).

 

[DionR]

Check out Blake's videos here.
There is one showing the smaller Jeep alternator mounted in a different location. This avoids frame rail notching which is not the big deal everyone makes it in my opinion.

Good point, but don't forget his frame rail is over an inch closer than for most people doing this swap. I really doubt he will get away without mods to his engine bay.

 

[MonkeyMadness]

Good point, but don't forget his frame rail is over an inch closer than for most people doing this swap. I really doubt he will get away without mods to his engine bay.

No I'm expecting some mods for sure... Just trying to limit them as much as I can!
I'm pretty sure the moment I get out of my truck to look at this motor I'll be in over my head

 

[MonkeyMadness]

Lol So I ended up buying everything the guy had for the swap and the hemi. It comes with a swap oil pan, BPE swap harness and programmed ECU, this harness is a motor swap dream it's soo badass! www.BPEusa.com

I guess now I just have to figure out which mounts I want to run and how to get my car back from paint and body so I can stuff this damn thing in

Any suggestions motor mounts? I've seen a few different options

Edit Notes: Oh and I forgot to mention the 545RFE trans is exactly the same length and same location for the mount point as the 46RE It looks like I may only have to massage the tunnel just behind the bell housing just a bit but it should be and easy fit other wise... lol knock on wood...

 

[DionR]

Lol So I ended up buying everything the guy had for the swap and the hemi. It comes with a swap oil pan, BPE swap harness and programmed ECU, this harness is a motor swap dream it's soo badass! www.BPEusa.com

I guess now I just have to figure out which mounts I want to run and how to get my car back from paint and body so I can stuff this damn thing in

View attachment 1715749597 View attachment 1715749598 View attachment 1715749599 View attachment 1715749600 View attachment 1715749601

Been re-reading your build thread and waiting to see what you would do. I was guessing you would come home with it.

 

[TheGreatGazoo]

Thanks this will help. I'm going tomorrow after work to look at the motor and trans. Pretty sure I'll be coming home with it. I've already found a buyer for my 5.9/46RE
Surprisingly the Wife didn't put up any kind of fight... lol My "Honey Do list" did get much bigger

Yes I did a 66 valiant ( early abody ) with stock 6 cyl K member super tight lots of mods to tunnel and cross member. Also I'm using manual box with jeep manifolds. Had to file down the side of the manifold to allow the steering shaft to pass and cut back the outer tube up to the firewall. Added power brakes had to move the booster to the left side about 3 inches.

 

[chryslerfat]

Yes I did a 66 valiant ( early abody ) with stock 6 cyl K member super tight lots of mods to tunnel and cross member. Also I'm using manual box with jeep manifolds. Had to file down the side of the manifold to allow the steering shaft to pass and cut back the outer tube up to the firewall. Added power brakes had to move the booster to the left side about 3 inches.

View attachment 1715749877

Pure sexy thanks for sharing.

 

[MonkeyMadness]

Yes I did a 66 valiant ( early abody ) with stock 6 cyl K member super tight lots of mods to tunnel and cross member. Also I'm using manual box with jeep manifolds. Had to file down the side of the manifold to allow the steering shaft to pass and cut back the outer tube up to the firewall. Added power brakes had to move the booster to the left side about 3 inches.

View attachment 1715749877

What motor mounts did you run on this.
I've got two I'm looking at

the TTI57MMA

Or the Schumachr kit SCHA67H6

 

[jw97neon]

It is a tight. Very tight. I have seen it once. thegreatgazoo is the second. Here are some of my mock up pictures. I ended up buying a Gerst suspension.

://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/members/thegreatgazoo.56933/

 

[TheGreatGazoo]

What motor mounts did you run on this.
I've got two I'm looking at

the TTI57MMA
View attachment 1715749967
Or the Schumachr kit SCHA67H6
View attachment 1715749968

No one made mounts for the early A body with G3 hemi motors. So I made my own. I found a set of flat plates that bolted to the block and started from there and I had a set of schumacher poly loc B body that I had laying in my garage. Then dropped the motor in place with a jack stand and shims right where I want it then started building my mounts. Tacked them all together pulled the motor and welded all togeather. Remember the center of the crankshaft should be offset to to the passenger side about 5/8 inch I used the attached chart from tti.