65 Barracuda daily driver

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The F body Mopar, ie Volare, Aspen many came with slants and AC looks like that would have been an easy solution?? Maybe the aftermarket radiator is the issue dunno. Glad you will have AC!
Even if the F-body bracket fits, you would still have to go to a junkyard and find one. I just looked on ebay if I could find one just to see their design and found none. I'm not sure if the F-body engine bay is different from the early A-body. Yes, I have an aftermarket radiator, but I tested it with the original radiator and it also didn't fit.
 
lots of guys that gave parted out F bodies FB has these groups, F body eng bay wil be wider than A. Not rsure what works for your car
 
lots of guys that gave parted out F bodies FB has these groups, F body eng bay wil be wider than A. Not rsure what works for your car

I remembered correctly and even the original bracket needs to be modified to fit a Sanden compressor. So there's really no benefit modifying something I don't already have.

See here:
Early Slant Six A/C Success
 
Bolted the adapter in and the compressor doesn't hit the fan. Yay! Still need to relocate the belt tensioner and get a longer belt.

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Just a reminder that this is a daily driven vehicle!

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Last weekend I finally painted the area at the driver/ front side where the car was hit a while ago. Still need to color sand it and polish the whole thing. Not perfect, but pretty good. You can barely see it in the photo.

That inspired me to finally fix the cracked paint/ filler on the deck lid around the holes of the Plymouth letters. Turns out there was a lot of Bondo and some of it wasn't even cured, which explain how moisture got in there and caused the cracks. Back when I got the car painted I think that was the the only part that I didn't strip to bare metal and now I know why that's important, haha. I cleaned it even better than the photo and started laying down bondo again - the deck lid is pretty mangled. I have a better spare deck lid, but it's gonna be faster to do this one now. Will also not be perfect, but better than before...

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I found the photo from back then (5 years ago). If you have this many colors of Bondo and primer -it's definitely too many, haha!

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Haven't had much time to work on the Barracuda, but the other day the engine shut off while driving - luckily it was just in a parking lot and not on the freeway. Turns out the nut holding the positive wire in place came off the stud, because there was almost no thread left. I was able to fix it temporarily, but decided to replace the coil. First I thought about replacing it with a Pertronix Flamethrower or a MSD Blaster, but none were available locally and it's not really a race car and so I just went with Napa Echlin IC27 that cost me about 30 bucks. I bolted it in and now the car starts immediately at the turn of the key and idles much smoother and also runs better than it ever has. I'm almost happy that I was finally forced to fix it!
 
Still a good looking car. Havent touched mine at all.
 
Now the little slant has developed a little misfire when idling in gear - any idea what that could be? Could it be related to the new coil? Could the new coil affect ignition timing?
 
Check spark plugs for anomalies. If you have a rich/lean cylinder, spark plugs will tattle. Next, check play in the timing chain. If that checks out, put a timing light on and check for timing scatter. Timing jumping around indicates either a bad timing chain (which you can check mechanically) or bad distributor bushings. After that, check cap, rotor, wires, points/condenser dwell (if equipped), and possibly clogged carburetor idle circuit. If all else fails, do a compression test. The old /6's needed the occasional valve adjustment as well. You might want to look at that (especially if you have irregularities in the compression test). Your description opens the doors for many possibilities.

[edit]
The new coil may have different dwell requirements. Check the spec sheet.
[/edit]
 
Check spark plugs for anomalies. If you have a rich/lean cylinder, spark plugs will tattle. Next, check play in the timing chain. If that checks out, put a timing light on and check for timing scatter. Timing jumping around indicates either a bad timing chain (which you can check mechanically) or bad distributor bushings. After that, check cap, rotor, wires, points/condenser dwell (if equipped), and possibly clogged carburetor idle circuit. If all else fails, do a compression test. The old /6's needed the occasional valve adjustment as well. You might want to look at that (especially if you have irregularities in the compression test). Your description opens the doors for many possibilities.

[edit]
The new coil may have different dwell requirements. Check the spec sheet.
[/edit]

The timing chain is new as of last year and it's an 80's hydro-slant, so no valve adjustment. Spark plug wires are the only thing I touched when I replaced the coil, so I'll start there and then timing light and then carb. My guess is that the spark from the old coil was so weak that it affected the timing...
 
Check for loose tip on rotor.
And air gap if its electronic ignition. Vacuum leaks too.
 
Ok, so I replaced the vacuum hose, which didn't help. Then I changed the plugs. The old ones had some white residue, but looked ok otherwise:
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Then I used a timing light for the first time in my life, haha. Not sure if I did it right. I plugged the vacuum line and with the engine warmed up it looked like this:



Which looks like 16BTC to me. It smoothed out a bit around 12BTC. I think I checked TDC when I replaced the timing chain, but I'll check again.

I haven't really driven the car yet, but I will tonight and see if it idles better.
 
Wow, this looks more like a show car than a driver... good for you.
BEAUTIFUL
Not my fav Cuda for sure, but then my 66 Dart wasn't my favorite Dart either, till she was mine, lol.
Will be following this thread.
 
Thank you! Up close she's not that perfect, but she sure looks great in photos! I stumbled across her 11 years ago and fell in love immediately. I will never have any other car, haha.
 
It appears I have found the culprit. What you are looking at below is one of the contacts in the distributor cap. All the contacts were somewhat damaged as well as the rotor. So I replaced the cap and rotor and they came with new wires, so I swapped everything and the problem seems to be solved. I wonder how the damage occurred, and I assume that the car was running when the distributor cap wasn't fully seated? No idea, but I'm glad it's fixed now.

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My speedometer stopped working and so I pulled the gauge cluster out to see what was going on. While taking out the cluster you could already hear parts rattling around in there. From the front it still looked ok:

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On the back side a different story:

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Luckily I have a couple of speedometers and dash clusters, so I grabbed the odometer counter from the broken speedo that was in the car when I bought it 11 years ago. There's a little clip on the opposite side of the gear that needs to be removed and out comes the counter. Luckily I took a photo from the side before I took it out, because there are little notches for each wheel that hold it in place. Not that easy to line them all up and getting them in there!

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Next up was some preventative maintenance. There's a little hole with a little brass cup that holds a wick that is supposed to oil the speedo internally. The cup already has some perforation for a special service tool (I assume), but you just use a very small screw and screw it carefully in there, so you can pull the thing out. The wick was rock solid and not reusable. I thought about using some cotton, but feared that it would wrap around the shaft and block it, so I went without it. Just used a good amount of 3-in-1 oil and spun the speedo with a drill, so it would get where it needs to be.

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It's a bit blurry, but you can see the cup that I filled with RTV to close the screw hole.

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Then I popped it back into the hole. It didn't want to go in the way it came out, but it did backwards and that was fine with me. It's really just to keep dust out at this point.

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By the way this is the paint I use to freshen up the needles of the gauges (see above).

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I cleaned everything in the cluster including the circuit board. A while ago I figured out that it works better with regular bulbs for oil, high beam and turn signal indicator and LEDs for the instrument lights.

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I even used some foam tape to replace the rotten foam at the oil light etc.

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It was dark when I finally had it back in the car. But I finally figured out why it broke in the first place. Well, after I connected the speedo cable, it was really bouncy and I was discouraged and disconnected the cable again. Then I tried something... I remembered that when the old cable broke and I replaced with one that you cut to length. And apparently I cut it just a bit too long, so instead of just rotating it put pressure on the tail end of the speedo and eventually broke it. So I loosened up the connection where the cable attaches to the speedo a bit and voila: The speedo runs smoother than it ever has. Since there is a good amount of threads on that connection I figured I could make a little spacer and tighten the speedo cable with the remaining threads. I made one that was about 1/16", but that was not enough. I will make another one that's closer to 1/8" and test again. For now it works ok just loosely on there, haha.

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Anyways, all that progress motivated me to get back to the A/C install. That meant drilling a hole in my custom made, CNC'd adapter bracket to attach the belt tensioner:

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It took about 4 different tensioners to find on that aligned with the compressor pulley.

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Then I bolted it into the car and tried a few different belts and it finally works:



I'll still need a longer belt to have a bit more clearance and I will shave down the head of the bolt a bit for the same reason, because it is really close to the fan. But now that the compressor finally is driven by the belt, I can look into how to route the hoses and connect everything.
 
Have I mentioned how much I dislike gear oil?

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Anyways, my little 7 1/4" sure grip started making hideous noises, so it was time to finally address all the issues related to it. It has had a pretty bad leak since I swapped this rear in. Until recently I thought it was coming out of the the cover and I made multiple attempts at replacing the gasket, using different sealers etc. Sooo stupid. What I hadn't realized was that it was leaking out of the pinion seal and running down the case to the bottom of the cover... Also, there was a leak at the passenger side axle tube and at least one of the bearings was making noise, so I grabbed a pair of axles that I still had and wanted to have the bearings replaced. Which was a nightmare, haha. The bearings that I hab bought from Rockauto a while ago weren't the right ones (they were for a 8 1/4"). Then I got the right bearings from O'Reilly's and took them over to a machine shop only to realize that one of them was missing the race. They were able to order a new one and half a day later I was able to pick them up. By the way, the correct part number is RWF34R (old bearings below).

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I started with the pinion seal and like you can see in the first photo, everything was covered in gear oil gunk (so gross). I had read that you're supposed to mark the nut and the pinion yoke with a punch and count the turns to put it back exactly how it was. As I was attempting that I realized that the nut was loose, so that step was pointless. It also was potentially quite dangerous to drive around like that. The old seal didn't want to come out at first and the new one was fighting me quite a bit, but I got it on and then attempted to torque it with my torque wrench, but the torque wrench only goes up to 180 ft⋅lb and the manual said minimum 240. So I took my electric impact (rated at 360 ft⋅lb) and figured that that was my best bet - especially because it said minimum 240, so I figured more is probably ok. By the way, the nut requires a 1-1/8" socket, which I didn't have, so one more trip to the parts store... I had cleaned everything (including the pinion snubber) and bolted the driveshaft back on and greased the u-joint. Part one was done.

Next up was the axles and I started with the one that was leaking and needed the seal replaced. That went relatively well, but cleaning the gear oil gunk off the brakes, wheel and tire was a pain in the ***. The other side was much cleaner and I got the new axle in in no time. I had replaced that seal early last year and it was still good. I also installed brand new RH studs on both axles, painted the rusty drums black, put the wheels back on and topped of the rear end. The first test drive went well and it is so nice and quiet now.

Next weekend I will tackle the front end (again), installing new pivot shafts and bushings for the LCAs and fixing one of the adjustable strut rods.
 
After working on my Barracuda for 11 years I finally decided to order a torsion bar remover from Mancini and it arrived to day just in time for this coming weekend's planned front end overhaul. Can't wait to put it to use!

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So, the big front end overhaul was such a pain in the ***, haha. The LCA shafts were bent and the bushings were noisy and something in there had play, so I got this Proforged greasable LCA shaft kit (P/N: 12010003) that came with new bushings and shells. I tried my luck chiseling the old shells out of the control arm and despite getting one out, I should have just taken it to the machine shop right away. See below the one that I got out. I then ruined one of the new shells trying to get it in before giving up, waiting for a new one and then taking it to the machine shop. The guy at the machine shop didn't like the greasable shafts and told me to use the old ones, but I told him they were bent and that those were the only ones I had now...

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I only took very few photos, because I was busy cursing, haha. Nothing went in easy, but here you can see the new greasable shaft coming through the k-frame.

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I've had these Energy Suspension torsion bar dust boots for years I think and was never able to to install them. There was soo much dirt and grime in the opening though, that I finally decided to replace the completely destroyed old boots. It was not easy!!! I looked here on FABO if anyone had the same problem and sure enough there were a few suggestions. I had to use a combination of two approaches. First, dropped them into boiling hot water, then stretch them over a smaller socket, than a bigger one and then finally one that is just a bit bigger than the torsion bar. Then put it back into the hot water and then slide them from the socket to the torsion bar. The first one took a few attempts, the second one worked at the first.

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Once everything was back together I jumped in the car and took it for a 90 mile round-trip. All the noise is gone and it feels like a mucher newer car, haha. Even though I brought the torsion bar adjusters back to their previous position, I think I should get an alignment. Over all I'm really happy with the results despite my body being completely sore sore from wrenching and bending. I also painted the sway bar and ordered new bushings and hopefully I'll be able to install that soon. And finish the A/C install before next summer. And fix/ paint the deck lid. The results will be way more photogenic than what I posted recently, haha.
 
I feel your pain working on the front suspension. The payoff is pretty rewarding though. I'd much rather do the dirty work myself knowing it was done right before paying someone to screw up my car.
 
I feel your pain working on the front suspension. The payoff is pretty rewarding though. I'd much rather do the dirty work myself knowing it was done right before paying someone to screw up my car.

Yeah, I totally agree. The two shops I've taken the car to did a pretty bad job. Strut rod bushing cups installed backwards that lead to one broken and one bent strut rod, losing and not installing a that big washer on the rear shocks, messing up brand new parts, etc. The 3 machine shops I've taken parts to were not bad so far, but relatively expensive. I wish I had all the tools and skills etc, but in the end I've done 95% percent of the work on this car myself and I'm very proud of it. Haha, go back to page 1 and see how far I've come! Anyways, even when I'm cursing and complaining, most of the time I enjoy working on the car and I love driving it every day even more!

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I replaced the other heim joint of the adjustable strut rods. They weren't installed correctly the first time around, so there was some binding and they ended up damaged. I did the driver side a couple of weeks ago. I thought it was only one side and only ordered one, but they were both bad. Also squeezed
some grease into the front suspension components.

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The thermostat housing was leaking, so I was gonna replace the gasket, but after taking it apart I noticed that the housing was so badly rusted that I decided to get a new one. It only cost $11 including tax so that was an easy decision... The gasket that came with it was kinked, but luckily I already had a Felpro gasket.

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Probably the reason it was leaking:

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It fit well! The car was overheating a little on the freeway, so I hope a leak free cooling system will help.

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Fixed a few other random little things, but nothing worth mentioning.
 
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