65 Barracuda daily driver

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That system should work just fine. Find something to practice on, and watch some You Tube painting videos. If there's anyway possible, you should run some #12 Romex off of a 20 amp breaker to a 20 amp plug in your garage. It may make a big difference in the longevity of the Fuji system.
 
Thanks @JDMopar, I'll look into the breaker etc. I've been watching some painting videos on youtube etc and I will practice before spraying color on the fender etc. I'm super excited actually, I've always loved painting - even though it's only really been with rattle cans. And my car needs it and since I will continue driving the car daily I'm sure it will need paint in the future too.
 
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After 3 or 4 times applying Naval Jelly on the fender there is still a lot of "surface" rust.

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The upper three holes are for the "Barracuda" script, but what are these other ones for?

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Same here - I assume there was a fender mounted turn signal or mirror or something here (the front hole was under some bondo).

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This was the worst surprise so far: A nasty rust hole under a layer of Bondo. The Bondo wasn't even fully cured, so I started to scrape it out the best I could. I can't weld (I should learn that soon, though), but I have a friend of a friend who might be able to weld in a patch there and fill all those extra trim holes.
 
On the last picture the upper (left) big little holes are for the Pentastar emblem the lower hole is for the rover molding.

As for paint prep , all the surface rust has to be removed then immediately sealed with epoxy primer sealer or self etching primer sealer , then you can take your time doing the rest of the build primer and sanding then your ready for paint .
 
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If you get by the grocery store, buy a gallon of white vinegar....it's cheap. Get some rubber gloves to work in, and a few red scuff pads, and try scrubbing the surface rust off with the white vinegar. You will need to neutralize it with baking soda if it cleans the rust off, or it will flash rust back. I soaked a surface rusted crank in a 5 gallon bucket full of white vinegar, and it came out looking brand new. Maybe it will work on that surface rust also.
 
^^Like said I F using any acid to kill surface rust, be sure to neutralize it. Ospho needs to be neutalized with water and then clean it before epoxy primer, I been told, most or all epoxy primers have some sort of acid in them. A self etch primer would too Id think. That is what causes a reaction sometimes delayed for months!
 
I would suggest bringing it to a capable, trustworthy blaster, or if budget allows, have it dipped. Saves you time, a messy job, and you can start with a really rust free and clean surface. If the rust is not completely gone, it will always come back.

Cheers Wolfgang
 
Getting there... Thanks for the tips, I ended up sticking with Naval Jelly combined with 80 Grit sanding sponge thing and one of these carbide stripping wheels.

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For the first time since I bought this car in 2009 the passenger fender is off the car. The doors, the other fender, hood, valance, deck lid, grille were replaced when the car was painted. That fender was super straight and rust free...

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The splash shield apparently took some of the impact. I had installed the shields and new seals and bolts a few months ago.

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Doesn't look so bad, right?

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It's all in the perspective...

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I feel much better about my Barracuda now that the bad fender is off. Next step is to test fit the "new" fender.

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Test fitting... It definitely needs some massaging to fit, but it fits. Looking much better already and looks great in bare metal.

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At least the script holes are in the right place - not sure what the other three holes are for

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I'm still looking for a better fender, this one is probably too warped, but good for now. Might just bondo it up and practice with my new paint gun on it... However, I'm still driving the car daily and it ran like crap and didn't really want to start. That accelerator pump might have been the culprit, but it needed a full rebuild anyways:

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Suspecting something like this I ordered a rebuild kit that arrived today. Took it all apart and now I'm about to soak all the parts.
 
Killer! I just noticed youre rockin the slant six and V8 emblems. Me too!

It's a V8 car, but someone put an '80s hydraulic lifter super six slant in it. I'm about to replace both fenders, so I might change it up a bit. But I'm also considering putting a V8 back in there... I recently bought a V8 center link, because it was cheap.
 
It's a V8 car, but someone put an '80s hydraulic lifter super six slant in it. I'm about to replace both fenders, so I might change it up a bit. But I'm also considering putting a V8 back in there... I recently bought a V8 center link, because it was cheap.
Did whomever do the swap also install a /6 center link?
 
Did whomever do the swap also install a /6 center link?

Yeah, for some reason they swapped in the 6 cylinder center link. This car was put together from a lot of different parts. The trans is a '65 slant six 904, but according to VIN, fender tag and build-sheet it's a 2BBL V8 car.
 
I had to figure all that stuff out when I bought the car. Especially since it's a hydraulic lifter slant with no spark plug tubes, so it uses different spark plugs and valve cover gasket etc. When I need engine parts, I always look for 1983 Dodge D150 2BBL truck parts.
 
After a lot of hammering and bending that fender finally fits pretty good. I also finally adjusted the door and the windows and it all fits better than ever before.

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I'm more sure than ever that I wanna put a V8 back in the Barracuda. It's currently a slant 6, but it's a V8 car per fender tag etc. A 340 would be great, but too pricey for me, 273 would make it original-ish again and 318 or 360. Easiest would probably be a 318. Not looking for that much power. I already like how the slant 6/ super six with the 2-1/4" exhaust goes. It's daily driven car.

Anyhow, after recently getting a V8 center link, I got the next important thing: a 1965 V8 904. That way I can keep the console and cables as is and pretty much just bolt on almost any Mopar small block. Speaking of which: I bought my first Mopar Small Block, hahaha! Only when I got it home I saw that it's actually 1967 273 block, not a 1965 as advertised. It's pretty much a bare block, there are some heads and a crank, I'll check the number on those. And an oil pan - also didn't realize it's truck pan (?). Oh well, I paid $150 for the trans and 100 bucks for the other pile of... I don't think I'll be building that 273 - at least not anytime soon. I'm gonna keep my eyes open for a cheap 318 somewhere nearby - can't be that hard to find.

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Also did something actually productive and put a new tank in my car. The old one had plenty of dents and was just gross. There was a lot more gas in it than I thought, the fuel gauge might have fooled me thinking it was empty. There were still about 6-7 gallons in the tank. Anyhow, got the fuel sending unit out and the "sock" was swimming in the tank, but was in great shape, so I popped it back on the line and I think it should be ok. The strap cleaned up nicely with little effort. I thought there was undercoating on it, but it was just mud, haha. I was also able to reuse the rubber gasket where the filler tube goes into the tank. I have to admit the insulator pad didn't look that great, but no one will ever see it and it will do its job. I put one of those sentry things in the tube that is supposed to prevent the gas from overfilling.

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I still need to install the tach and I need to start the body work on the fender etc. The car doesn't look that great at the moment, but it runs really well and is so much fun to drive.
 
I admire the way you’re always fixing, restoring and improving things while keeping it an operable driver- especially the bodywork after the accident. Keep on keepin on!
 
I think your thinking about an LA 318 is right on the mark. More power but still perfect for a daily driver.

If you decide that's the way you want to go, post a Wanted ad on FABO. There are a number of members out your way.
 
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