65 Barracuda daily driver

-


So now that the car is running great, I immediately disassembled the interior to put in some sound deadener.

After I pulled the carpet I discovered some surface rust and suddenly this became a much larger project. I wirewheeled the floor, which appears to be relatively thin (but no holes), so the sound deadener is gonna be almost structural haha.

6h-OF_VWAH0hmjAqjng=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

sg_kZpW1LMghNhuIskQ=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I painted it with some Rustoleum and let it dry. Not pretty, but it was gping to be covered with the sound deadener and carpet on top anyways. In the meantime, while the seats were out I finally started on some seatbelts in the back. Luckily it already had holes from the factory in the center. I've had this car for 15 years and have taken it apart many, many times and never realized that that holes were in there - with a tiny plug in them. I had bought some belts at a swap meet that came with hardware, but two sets of belts and only one set of hardware.

Anyways, I started with the sound deadener:



I started in the back while the paint was still drying. I figured that cargo area with metal, some air in between and then some metal again close to the mufflers was like an echo chamber. I also added some to the floor that goes over this:

OIro3Mja_9EP4tsSgNw=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I left out the part where it mounts, because it's already difficult to get those screws in there and was afraid it might interfere with the folding seat if it stuck out further.

yc-XsqkAnn-Tc7KE9qQ=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I got some more hardware at a local Classic Porsche parts store. There were no holes where the other side of the belt attaches. There were some dimples that I guess were suggested locations for the holes, but that wasn't going to work with these belts and the hardware. I think the factory ones were eyebolts that you latch into. Anyways, I drilled my holes within an inch of those dimples. If you're doing this to your car, pay attention to the frame rails. You can kinda tell by the spot welds where they are. You wanna be far away enough so the big flat washer fits from the bottom. Oh yeah, there is also a brake line right there on the passenger side that you don't want to drill into.
Unfortunately the belts are way too long and I'll have to get shorter ones in the long run.

heVwwvqMEeQt1rRlhpgw=w791-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


So I covered everything that's under the rear carpet section. I have two of those sheets left out of the 36 sq ft Kilmat I bought. I wanna use some in the doors to make it quieter when you slam the doors and in some other places like under the dash. I might do the front of the floor as well and I know that there is also some rust that needs to be addressed.

But first I wanted to know if it made any difference...



It was already dark when the car was re-assembled so I drove over to a bar where a friend of mine was playing. It's not necessarily much quieter, but the drone is gone and it sounds sooo good!

I plan on daily driving the Barracuda once again, so I might eventually get some quieter mufflers or add a resonator, but for now it's just so much fun.

There's still a little stumble when you accelerate from a stop which I'll investigate. Also, apparently I hadn't tightened the transmission pan and the valve cover bolts enough, so there was a bit of a leak, but that should be good now.

Anyways, I'm stoked!
 
Lots of work!!! Looks great.

If you have an Edelbrock carburetor try moving the pump lever to the hole closest to the carburetor. That may help with the stumble.
 
Lots of work!!! Looks great.

If you have an Edelbrock carburetor try moving the pump lever to the hole closest to the carburetor. That may help with the stumble.

Thanks! I tried that, but in the upper hole it wouldn't start and in the lower hole it didn't really make much difference. I ended up using some carb cleaner and then adjusted idle, timing and idle mixture and the stumble is gone. Also adjusted the choke and fast idle and now it starts really well.
 
osIyARhQfggOIy7r8bU=w1379-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


The transmission was still leaking, so I got this newer style of pan and gasket:

yqinXOltlrKd-y1QO4P=w1379-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


i2fMsmmlsZ3e6DPHLiOz=w775-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I don't think I need the extra capacity, I just wanted a pan that's not 60 years old and bent. The drain plug is a big plus too.

Transmission Pan

Gasket

Unfortunately on a cable shifted early A904 it interferes with park lock cable housing. So it was time to break out the Dremel and cut a bit off the lip. Shouldn't be a big deal I hope.

55Yt-ToQ-Z14MdGbMvK=w1379-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg



2t-s9GPlZ8-VuglMX3L=w1379-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


There's one bolt that's a bit hard to reach and it's pretty close to the exhaust, so I'll probably wrap the pipe there. I haven't filled it with fluid yet, but I sure I hope the ATF leak is now finally a thing of the past.
 
YHeboEaRpBlcS4cE3sI=w1379-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I worked on quite a few things on the Barracuda. This was one of my favorites - only one of the three bulbs in the gauge cluster was working, which meant you couldn't really read any of the gauges. I took the cluster out, cleaned everything and changed the (LED) bulbs, but that only fixed the right side. Then I swapped out the bulb holder and that fixed it! Now I just need to find a bulb that makes the tach match the rest...

UKwnK7zPsTknHeioOiFE=w775-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


A couple of weeks ago one of the arms of the quarter window regulator on one side broke. Both sides were always poorly adjusted and on the other side one of the bolts broke probably 10+ years ago. I got a set of regulators on ebay and fixed both sides now. One side is near perfect now, but I might need to make another adjustment on the other. It's way better than it's ever been. I took the car to a coin-op car wash and for the first time there was no water coming in through those windows. I was trying to find the rubber spacers for the windows, but couldn't find them other in a whole set that I didn't need, so I realized that 3/8" fuel hose works and is even a touch tighter than the original.



I had been aware that the manifold vacuum was too low, but hadn't figured out why. I finally sprayed some carb cleaner around the base and sure enough there's a leak around the base. Strangely enough when you install an Edelbrock Performer carb on a Edelbrock Performer intake you need a gasket, a square bore adapter plate and another gasket under the carb. I changed the bottom gasket and sprayed it with some high heat copper spray, but the leak remained. Apparently I had gotten the wrong insulated Edelbrock gasket (#9265). The Edelbrock #9266 is made for the Performer and I guess you can eliminate the adapter with that one. They're 30 bucks though, and even though they are supposed to be reusable, I don't think they really are. I'll take the insulated one off and replace it with a simple gasket. Really just to see if that's the issue with the vacuum leak. I also read it could be the throttle body shaft, which I guess would be harder to fix. We'll see.

E-Pp23uE6ytxqsUhMMA8=w775-h1034-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


Another issue is that there's still a ATF leak. I figured out that it's the neutral safety switch. It would have been nice if the guy who rebuilt the transmission had replaced that gasket too... I already ordered one and I still have another switch from the slant 6 transmission. And luckily the new pan has a drain plug, which makes draining the ATF a whole lot easier. Unfortunately the 2-1/2" TTI exhaust pipe makes it near impossible to get to the switch, so I might have to drop the exhaust a bit. I'd like to avoid that because it's pretty well adjusted right to where it doesn't touch anything, but it'll probably need to happen. It'd be worth it if it finally fixed the last leak...
 
So that cut I did on the transmission oil pan was apparently too much and it was leaking from there. So I can't really recommend that pan for an early, cable shifted A904. Anyways, I got the neutral safety switch out and the gasket had barely any rubber left on it. Instead there was more bathtub silicone... By now I'm not only extremely mad at the guy who rebuilt the transmission, but I also wonder what he really did internally. The switch itself was mangled and was probably also leaking from around the post. You'd think he would at least recommend to replace it?

jr5eY6wvgEKybb9l47qq=w791-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


Luckily I still had the one that was in the slant 6 904 and that one was in pretty good shape (I cleaned it up a bit more more after snapping the photo).

jT5Tb4qHjicTBLq-OvAF=w791-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I had ordered a gasket online, but that didn't arrive in time, so I got a switch for a '73 Dart from O'Reilly's for like 8 bucks and used that gasket.

With the right combination of extensions I was able to get the switch in and out without removing the exhaust. I was even able to get a torque wrench on it and torqued it to 25 ft lbs. The '65 manual said 25-35 ft lbs... 35 seems way too much and why couldn't they make up their minds?

RBbcSDhoUHHxhM_3YvUU=w791-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


I also still had a vacuum leak, so I replaced the gasket with this Holley 108-18 insulated gasket:

L4dOIYwc4UlRG480g8lAw=w903-h856-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


Edelbrock makes a similar one and they say you don't need that spread bore to square bore adapter plate with it. The Holley one seems to be better quality in my opinion. The insulation definitely helps on hot days.

The bottom side of my Edelbrock 1406 does not look great, but I hope it will seal now.

QWn45UF4MwNZK2-Rcvg=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
I started on prepping a better deck lid for paint, but I didn't take photos of that yet. Last night I started refinishing the letters though.

i-fYibMVYQN2bTHoENC=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


In this photo the chrome looks a lot worse than it actually is. First time using an eyedropper instead of spraying or brushing. Not bad, cleaned the messy parts with Q-tip soaked in paint thinner.

JLivbFwZk7-l1tB46xj=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg



Aa9I8DSnlxhIPal61Ew=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
Og3FovUSau_8MOyU9q8=w1405-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


Went to Spring Fling on Saturday and actually found some parts I needed. Well, I bought the ECU as a spare, but only noticed later it's a 5-pin. Came with the plug/ wiring, which is not bad to have as a spare as well. The A/C bracket supposedly only works with power steering and a shorty Sanden compressor, but I think I can make that work. The sun visors are the wrong year and I'll have to paint them red, but I'll use the chromed hardware that's in the car and they were only 15 bucks and in great shape. Two guys from Canada, who were in town for the show, came by my place and bought a hood and some hubcaps and I met up with someone who wanted some slant 6 parts at Spring Fling. Ended up making twice as much money than I spent and that without having a swap meet spot...

JrPosuo9boVtVPCUSSxA=w791-h1054-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
-
Back
Top