Deucemopar
Well-Known Member
Cool!
65 Barracuda w/500ci RB, Stage VI Max Wedge Port Heads, 6-speed, and 5.38 Dana
- Thread starter Brad4406
- Start date
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Thanks.
Picked up some parts over the holiday break.
My McLeod T56 adapter plate arrived Wednesday and Thursday I got a smoking deal on roll bar padding. I'm no where close to needing the padding, but it was too good of a deal to pass up.
My McLeod T56 adapter plate arrived Wednesday and Thursday I got a smoking deal on roll bar padding. I'm no where close to needing the padding, but it was too good of a deal to pass up.
Thanks.
It appears I'll be able to fit a 30" by 11" tire without a rub. With a 5.38 gear currently installed, I wanted as tall a tire as possible. I don't expect to spend much time in first gear.
It appears I'll be able to fit a 30" by 11" tire without a rub. With a 5.38 gear currently installed, I wanted as tall a tire as possible. I don't expect to spend much time in first gear.
I looked at my reply and I believe I should clarify. The reason I'll be able to fit a 30" tire is not just because of the mini tub, but because I moved the rear axle back approximately 1.5".
I'm still in the planning/purchasing stages with the T56 install. Fortunately my best friend is helping me with the design plans.
I ordered a T5 front bearing retainer that I will have to have a machine shop turn down for me and then install a Lakewood adapter ring to get it back up to large Mopar diameter.
I ordered a T5 front bearing retainer that I will have to have a machine shop turn down for me and then install a Lakewood adapter ring to get it back up to large Mopar diameter.
I want to jump in here and say thanks again for the show and tell you are taking the time to do here 
Love seeing this work going on , looking forward to learning more as this build moves forward 
Love seeing this work going on , looking forward to learning more as this build moves forward
Thanks Mike.I want to jump in here and say thanks again for the show and tell you are taking the time to do here
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I'm very slow on progress, but I try to capture as much as possible so others can learn from my mistakes to determine which way they want to go with their projects.
Fortunately my best friend helps me with all the technical aspects that are beyond my knowledge level. Thank goodness for him because there are many times I'd be lost if it wasn't for him. Just like the T56 with mechanical clutch install; no kit is available so he's been walking me through a design. He amazes me with the way he can picture something and come up with a design, even though he's many miles away from the project.
awesome. thanks for that info.
A new T5 front bearing retainer just arrived. As you can see from the picture, it's about 1.5" longer than the one that came with the adapter plate.
Time to find a machine shop to cut the outside diameter down to big block Mopar bearing retainer size. After that, I'll install it on the plate, place it on my Lakewood scattershield, centerpunch the A833 mounting holes from the inside of the scattershield, and then drill them out on my drillpress.
Time to find a machine shop to cut the outside diameter down to big block Mopar bearing retainer size. After that, I'll install it on the plate, place it on my Lakewood scattershield, centerpunch the A833 mounting holes from the inside of the scattershield, and then drill them out on my drillpress.
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Imoressive work. Motivation continues.
For comparison, you are building a rocket,where im building a rowboat. I still like to see what a car like mine can become.
For comparison, you are building a rocket,where im building a rowboat. I still like to see what a car like mine can become.
Thanks. Hopefully your project goes together quicker than mine.Imoressive work. Motivation continues.
For comparison, you are building a rocket,where im building a rowboat. I still like to see what a car like mine can become.
I get a bit disappointed sometimes when I think about how long I've had this car and never had it on the road. However, it will all be worth it once that happens.
This car is going to be bad a$$. Great job keep up the work.
Thanks.
Wow, it has been a long time since I did anything with this post or the Barracuda. I didn't want to start cutting the car for attempting the T56 install until I verified I had an executable plan for the mechanical clutch. I think I'm at a point now where I'm ready to start cutting.
I measured everything out and found out my original plan was not going to work. The Lakewood RB/4-speed scattershield is too long for the short input shaft of the T56.
I looked through some T56 threads and read where a member talked about how he wished he hadn't trimmed the front of his T56 input shaft, but it was too long for his application. This got me thinking, so I attempted a mock up using the Quicktime RB/T56 scattershield while installing the McLeod adapter plate between the T56 and the scattershield so a throwout bearing will have something to ride on. To do this, I had to remove the threaded inserts from the adapter plate for bolting it to the T56, that way I could install bolts long enough to attach the transmission to the scattershield with the adapter plate in between. With all of it bolted together, the T56 input shaft extends past the front of the scattershield, which means it will be long enough to go inside the pilot bearing. I bought some 3/8" round steel stock so I could make some longer dowel pins, long enough to extend from the T56 all the way through the adapter plate and into the scattershield. I'll have to buy some longer Grade 8 hardware to attach it all together for the final install.
My best friend gave me the center of a Ram clutch with splines for a T56, so I removed the 23 spline center I had on my Ram clutch while seeing how many lbs it took to remove the hardware, installed his center, and re-torqued the hardware to the original specs.
I no longer plan to modify the Ford T5 front bearing retainer; I'll use the one the Chevy version that came with the adapter plate. I will use a Chevy throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot for T56 with mechanical clutch. I'll either attach the pivot bolt to the adapter plate or fabricate a bracket to mount it to, similar to the one that comes with a Quicktime bellhousing for use on Chevys to T56 with mechanical clutch.
I measured everything out and found out my original plan was not going to work. The Lakewood RB/4-speed scattershield is too long for the short input shaft of the T56.
I looked through some T56 threads and read where a member talked about how he wished he hadn't trimmed the front of his T56 input shaft, but it was too long for his application. This got me thinking, so I attempted a mock up using the Quicktime RB/T56 scattershield while installing the McLeod adapter plate between the T56 and the scattershield so a throwout bearing will have something to ride on. To do this, I had to remove the threaded inserts from the adapter plate for bolting it to the T56, that way I could install bolts long enough to attach the transmission to the scattershield with the adapter plate in between. With all of it bolted together, the T56 input shaft extends past the front of the scattershield, which means it will be long enough to go inside the pilot bearing. I bought some 3/8" round steel stock so I could make some longer dowel pins, long enough to extend from the T56 all the way through the adapter plate and into the scattershield. I'll have to buy some longer Grade 8 hardware to attach it all together for the final install.
My best friend gave me the center of a Ram clutch with splines for a T56, so I removed the 23 spline center I had on my Ram clutch while seeing how many lbs it took to remove the hardware, installed his center, and re-torqued the hardware to the original specs.
I no longer plan to modify the Ford T5 front bearing retainer; I'll use the one the Chevy version that came with the adapter plate. I will use a Chevy throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot for T56 with mechanical clutch. I'll either attach the pivot bolt to the adapter plate or fabricate a bracket to mount it to, similar to the one that comes with a Quicktime bellhousing for use on Chevys to T56 with mechanical clutch.
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Woops; guess I should have done a better job of reading my dial caliper. Wasn't even close to 3/8". Time to call Tremec.
I remeasured with my precise caliper and discovered the dowel pins are 0.371". I called my best friend and off the top of his head he says, "That's the same size as big block valve shafts." Of course, I don't have any used ones laying around as I got rid of all of my spare big block stock heads and assorted parts, but fortunately he had one that he sent me. I cut the valve lock area off of it and cut it in half. There was just enough left for going all the way through the adapter plate and the bellhousing.
As you can see in the last picture, the input shaft extends past the front of the block protector, which means it will engage well into the pilot bearing in the back of the crank, once installed.
As you can see in the last picture, the input shaft extends past the front of the block protector, which means it will engage well into the pilot bearing in the back of the crank, once installed.
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Well, no holes in the engine protection plate that came with the QuickTime scattershield, so added two of the five that were in the Lakewood plate.
Cleaned up the floor inside as well so I can start cutting the floor and crossmember.
Installed the plate and am ready for flywheel installation. I'll have to go through my parts shelves tomorrow to find it.
Cleaned up the floor inside as well so I can start cutting the floor and crossmember.
Installed the plate and am ready for flywheel installation. I'll have to go through my parts shelves tomorrow to find it.
Prior to removing all of the 4-speed stuff, I took a measurement of angle of the engine so I could duplicate that angle when I install the T56 and start fabricating a mount. By measuring on the top of the intake, I came up with 3 degrees nose up.
I lowered down the back of the engine, so it almost sits on the centerlink, so I could barely get the bellhousing on so I could mark the floor to determine approximately how much floor I wanted to cut. I cut the center of the hump all the way to 3" above the firewall to floor seam. My plan is to spread the floor to enable installation of the T56, but we'll see how that works out later when I attempt to install the transmission.
I cut the floor on each side of the crossmember, cut out the spot welds attaching the floor to the crossmember using a spot weld cutter, and then pulled the floor back to access the spacers in the crossmember. On a side note, I can't believe how long I went without buying spot weld cutters; those things are amazing. I then cut the welds holding the spacers in the crossmember and removed them. I'll trim them later for use in the crossmember I fabricate.
Next up, cutting the crossmember just outside of the inner bolt holes. I forgot to mention, I unloaded the torsion bars a few days ago, so I could cut the crossmember whenever ready.
I lowered down the back of the engine, so it almost sits on the centerlink, so I could barely get the bellhousing on so I could mark the floor to determine approximately how much floor I wanted to cut. I cut the center of the hump all the way to 3" above the firewall to floor seam. My plan is to spread the floor to enable installation of the T56, but we'll see how that works out later when I attempt to install the transmission.
I cut the floor on each side of the crossmember, cut out the spot welds attaching the floor to the crossmember using a spot weld cutter, and then pulled the floor back to access the spacers in the crossmember. On a side note, I can't believe how long I went without buying spot weld cutters; those things are amazing. I then cut the welds holding the spacers in the crossmember and removed them. I'll trim them later for use in the crossmember I fabricate.
Next up, cutting the crossmember just outside of the inner bolt holes. I forgot to mention, I unloaded the torsion bars a few days ago, so I could cut the crossmember whenever ready.
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Split the floor to 7" above the firewall seam, beat the floor up, attached the scattershield, put a jack underneath the scattershield, and jacked up until the engine was slightly nose down. This helped to ensure I have the necessary room for the T56 when I'm ready for test fitting.
My next task is cutting the crossmember out for fabrication of the new one.
My next task is cutting the crossmember out for fabrication of the new one.
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needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
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Yikes! I know the t56 is big...but wow.I guess what your doing is really nothing compared to other who build an entirely new trans tunnel.
I still may end up doing that later, if I can't get the floor like I want it, but we'll see. The biggest goal for now was making room for moving forward with the crossmember fabrication. I'll worry about cosmetics later.
Finally too far to turn back now. Upper crossmember is out.
I measured the angles of the original upper crossmember and transferred those angles onto the outer edges of the original inner holes. I left some extra metal so I can trim what's left and use it for capping the ends.
Next is capping the ends, shoving the T56 in, and mocking up an upper crossmember.
I measured the angles of the original upper crossmember and transferred those angles onto the outer edges of the original inner holes. I left some extra metal so I can trim what's left and use it for capping the ends.
Next is capping the ends, shoving the T56 in, and mocking up an upper crossmember.
Drew centerline from previous holes on the upper crossmember. Marked and drilled new holes 2" inboard of center of outboard holes.
Trimmed the ends, bent the flaps up, and welded the ends closed.
View attachment 1715273195
Trimmed the ends, bent the flaps up, and welded the ends closed.
View attachment 1715273195
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