65 Dart Horn Problems

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eekvonzipper said:
No. (unaware) I would Love to know more about this as even my new ring has scars on it already.
I have a new replacement blinker switch from /6dan in there.
The only thing preventing a short is a piece of moleskin glued to top of the blinker screw...

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Oh, you have an aftermarket steering wheel? More photos of the wheel, adaptor, and horn parts please.
 
valiantpatrol said:
@eekvonzipper - your current "grant" aftermarket horn contact disk is flat I agree. but the factory one you posted a pic of earlier was not.
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They're Both "Grant" aftermarket, and yes it is...

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Here's the Wheel. It's a Superior Products "The 500" from the Sixties I guess.
Makes Squeaky sounds when turning... I'm guessing it's squeezed in too tight somehow.
I made a bushing for the center, replaced the switch and the ring. It's still very sensitive.
Working now but barely, there's a 50/50 chance it will work if I remove it again?

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I never did like the aftermarket steering wheels. The always seem to have horn or turn signal (or both) problems.
 
@eekvonzipper - Better picture clearly shows a flat disc. Thanks for the clarification and disregard what I said as it was based on erroneous perceptions.

@VanceC - any luck diagnosing your horn troubles?
 
@valiantpatrol- It's been 105 degrees here when I get home from work so I haven't tried yet. First I plan on disconnecting the connector on the steering column to see if it's good to that point. Then it may be time for me to finally learn how to use a volt meter.
 
You don't have to tell me about the heat ! In rereading the thread a question came to mind. You mentioned when reassembling that the horn starts making it's constant noise. Question is with everything in steering column assembled but no steering wheel installed is horn quiet? If Yes does putting the steering wheel on then start the horn? If no does the horn start blowing when you assemble the horn parts on the steering wheel.
 
That's a good question. I haven't had it together and connected to the horn without the wheel in place since I replaced the bad relay. I've just been disconnecting the relay and horn while I work on the wheel/turn signal/horn switch. Would that tell me if the problem was in the switch or the wheel making contact before the switch? BTW I watched a youtube video on using a multimeter and am going to buy one today. Question, after the wheel and horn switch is installed there's a green wire that connects to a paddle on the switch. Is that ground, or positive?
 
A light may have just come on in my head... Does it work this way: the copper ring on the steering wheel transmits the positive to the bottom of the horn switch and the green wire connected to the top of the switch is ground?
 
Yes, to question regarding will state of assembly help you isolate area of problem. No to wiring working that way. Horn is an open ground. Only "hot" wire is at the relay itself. Entire column wiring/switches are an open ground that must be completed. Only single wire I'm aware of is the one from the horn contact disk on the backside of the steering wheel and connected to the plastic horn switch you mentioned replacing early on and it would be a ground. If you've got a steering wheel puller I'd remove the steering wheel and set it aside. Plug in your relay and if horn honks I'd move on to my other test regarding unplugging the column connecter and testing per that post.
 
No wiring does not work that way. Only "hot" is at the relay. Wiring to column, copper wheel thingy, horn switch attached to steering wheel face are all an open ground. Taking the system to ground honks horn. Yes to helping isolate the problem area based on which component triggers it. Mine is a simple method, nothing wrong with the volt meter/continuity test method either as described by 67GT273? but you need the tools and familiarity with using them. I'd remove the steering wheel and set it aside. Plug in the relay and see if it honks or is quiet. With steering wheel still off, do the column connector test I described.
 
Ok, so with the wheel off I connect the horn and relay. If no honk, install the wheel. If no honk, install the horn switch. If no honk connect the green wire to the horn switch. If it doesn't honk until the last step then it's the switch, Is that right? Also true of false: since there's no power past the relay I won't get shocked reassembling the wheel, etc? I know these questions show how little I know about electrical but maybe I'll wind up learning a little.
 
Yes, to you order of assembly and logical thought process for isolating the trouble spot. Also true, that there is no way you can get shocked. Let us all know how it goes.
 
Ok, with the wheel removed the horn is silent. As I tighten the nut on the steering wheel the horn blows. As I wiggle the wheel from side to side it blows intermittently. What have I learned? Thank you in advance for your help. I took some photos but can't upload them at home. Tomorrow I can.
 
Your wheel assembly is shorted to ground. You'll need to isolate the horn circuit from the wheel somehow. The horn circuit should only ground to the wheel when you activate the horn switch. In other words, the wheel should be grounded, but, the horn circuit isn't, until you push the horn button. That completes the circuit and activates the horn relay, which in turn honks the horn.
 
I looked at it again to make sure I wasn't completing the circuit with the dangling wire from the wheel. No, the horn blows when I tighten the nut on the wheel making A touch B. This is how much I know.

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Still need to see the other side of the steering wheel and the horn switch parts. If they're not on the wheel, then that contact ring is not insulated from the wheel, or, it's wire lead is.
 
No, looking at the backside of the steering wheel you have not lost an insulating part. The insulation I referred to in an earlier post is that shriveled up, white looking crud, under the looped round steel retaining ring. Either enough of that is missing and allowing that looped retaining ring to touch the horn contact plate or the horn contact plate is bad which I see as less likely. I had not given the idea that you have an optional wood grain wheel much thought. I'm more familiar with the plastic coated steering wheels. I say this because the wood grain wheel may also have a similar insulating goo between the horn contact ring and the steering wheel body that if not there or bad would allow it to ground out. I'd consider removing the looped steel retaining ring (it's also you turn signal canceller so mark it so you can put it back on in the same place) and inspect/replace the insulating material on both sides of the horn contact ring. As cudamark suggested the horn contact ring, while resting on the steering wheel and held in place by that looped ring can't actually touch either, as in metal to metal contact.
 
Oh boy, I'll have to look at it and see if I can figure out how to do that. Have you ever removed that retaining ring? If I replace the insulating goo, what would I use?
 
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