Really lookinf forward to see it in person. What a great build. Any decisions on engine, slant or V8?
65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
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I was considering at one time a stout slant equipped with triple Webers and a 4 speed. Knee and hip issues made me change my decision to a 66 Commando 273/235 (with Commando air cleaner and valve covers of course - thanks @CudaChick1968 - mated to a Dakota A500 back to a disc brake equipped A body 8.75 with a 3.23 sure grip for gears. Front discs are 73-76 A Body. Got to stop as well as go!
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That's really cool. I wish I was that fortunate. I have absolutely ZERO "friends" willing to come help me do anything. Kitty is all I have and she doesn't have much upper body strength at all since her stroke. She sure does try, though.
Like yourself for the longest time the only help I had was my wife, mainly as an extra set of hands (which I really appreciated!).
My bodyman friend said he’d be back whenever the sandblaster finished up with the engine compartment, inside firewall and outside of the inner fenders - waiting on others like this sandblaster or as others have said, their machine shop - is frustrating. Said he could get all that in epoxy primer and shoot white paint in the same day! He said the body is really close To getting It in paint which he said since he did the fenders, doors and quarter panel work, he will do the paint! Got a feeling I owe him more than some wiring work!
My bodyman friend said he’d be back whenever the sandblaster finished up with the engine compartment, inside firewall and outside of the inner fenders - waiting on others like this sandblaster or as others have said, their machine shop - is frustrating. Said he could get all that in epoxy primer and shoot white paint in the same day! He said the body is really close To getting It in paint which he said since he did the fenders, doors and quarter panel work, he will do the paint! Got a feeling I owe him more than some wiring work!
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Lookin good Don! I don't remember reading what you plan to do for the cargo area floor? I redid a 64 Belvedere wagon several years ago, and all of the old masonite, cardboardish stuff the factory put on the floor of the cargo area was junk. It was scuffed up, and rolled up like sled runners on the edges. I was at a loss at what to use, because I knew if I used carpet in the little recessed areas the previous floor material was in, eventually the glue would come loose, and here we go again. I finally came up with getting the recessed areas Rhino Lined in blue, and it worked out fantastic! I don't know if that would be something you would be interested in for your car, but wanted to throw it out there for you.
Thanks JD! Would you believe the factory used 1/2 in plywood painted gray or at least there was some gray paint On both sides of the plywood in this wagon. With the original rear seat folded down, the floor would have been flat from the tailgate to the back of the front seat. Wouldn’t have taken a 4x8 sheet of anything but one could still carry stuff. I am replacing the plywood floor with new and carrying the carpet theme from the rear seatback to the tailgate. Due to this stupid virus I was told that you can’t order more than a yard of loose carpet - reason is so there is enough carpet for others in case the ACC plant shut down because of said virus! A customer service rep at Stock Interiors gave me a workaround to get more than a yard - order in my desired color from the Ford or Chevy area the 2.5 yards of carpet for constructing your own for your old flat floor car - BINGO! It evens comes with 20 ir so feet of binding. It’s more than I need but that’s OK. So I can cut and fit it to the floor from the seatback to the tailgate and get all edges bound for that finished look. The only thing that might be carried is a cooler to a show.
I have a NOS non-remote passenger side mirror (base not shown) I bought years ago
as well as a RHD (or passenger side) remote I bought from SlantSixDan a few years ago, thinking the remote one might work on the wagon. The remote mirror head was pit- free and could almost pass as NOS. The angle on the back side is opposite that of a driver’s side remote mirror and the same as the non-remote mirror 1st pic.
As compared to a driver’s side:
The separate base from the remote was pitted and shaped quite a bit different from a regular driver’s remote base
So I thought I could have a remote passenger side mirror by using the base from the NOS kit. So i opened the still sealed bag for the base, hardware and instructions for the passenger NOS mirror and Son of a gun - the base is the same as the driver’s side!
I fit the remote to the each base and the angle of the mirror head is the same for both mirrors. I’ve got a nice base that matches the use remote mirror head so the NOS base Goes back with the rest of the NOS package. Now I’ll have a passenger side remote mirror. To match the driver’s sude.
as well as a RHD (or passenger side) remote I bought from SlantSixDan a few years ago, thinking the remote one might work on the wagon. The remote mirror head was pit- free and could almost pass as NOS. The angle on the back side is opposite that of a driver’s side remote mirror and the same as the non-remote mirror 1st pic.
As compared to a driver’s side:
The separate base from the remote was pitted and shaped quite a bit different from a regular driver’s remote base
So I thought I could have a remote passenger side mirror by using the base from the NOS kit. So i opened the still sealed bag for the base, hardware and instructions for the passenger NOS mirror and Son of a gun - the base is the same as the driver’s side!
I fit the remote to the each base and the angle of the mirror head is the same for both mirrors. I’ve got a nice base that matches the use remote mirror head so the NOS base Goes back with the rest of the NOS package. Now I’ll have a passenger side remote mirror. To match the driver’s sude.
I found a nice set of DART 270 door emblems as found on a 270 hardtop or convertible but not used on a 2 or 4 door sedan. So it’s just a matter of measuring Several times and drilling once with the hole saw. After the doors are painted they’ll get installed. To the right of the emblem is the hole for the driver’s side remote mirror. A little progress here and there is always good!
and used the mirror gasket as a template for the outside mirror. Shiny triangular area to the right was probably for an aftermarket mirror mounting hole that I’ve got to weld closed
and used the mirror gasket as a template for the outside mirror. Shiny triangular area to the right was probably for an aftermarket mirror mounting hole that I’ve got to weld closed
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Great idea Don!
well, it WAS a Dart 270 at one time. I can’t recall if the fender moldings call out DART 270 as they were MIA when i received the car from CA
Even if it was MIA the front fender moulding rear DART 270.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Know the feeling , my wife has alergies pretty bad , she wont even go outside to feed the dogs . I got my boy to come out and run the engine hoist back when , but he was in a hurry, did get the wife out to pump the new brakes while I bled them , other than that , thats it !
If you just lived closer!
Sometimes that happens. But most of the time we can manage that. But sometimes it's hard!
I got a set of new bumpers for you.
not even close!
Got my helper (the wife) to give me a hand fitting the dash since the dash and cowl are from 2 different early A Barracudas - cowl from a 65; dash frame from a 66. Will have some adjusting to do to get the 3 middle bolts installed. Looks like the wiring to firewall bulkhead connector will fit although it might be a bit long as does the wiring going to the rear harness. Wiring to the Dakota Digital control unit is also more than I need, but better too long than too short. Then we started on the AC vent and found I need to relocate the Dakota Digital PAC1300 since this module interferes with the AC vent. I do see I will have plenty of room to incorporate the ABS radio housing below the AC vent or into a console as I need a place for the power window switches and a couple of cupholders
Well what the hell? lol
I The last time the sandblaster was here he started on the spare tire area and of course found some rustout under the area where the tailgate gasket was on the left side
so fabrication time
So I started working on a patch for it a few days ago
And fitting, trimming and adjusting as needed
After welding in place, some minor grinding and a coat of black primer, it’s done
Can’t even tell where the old ended and the new patch begins - sometimes I even impress myself lol!
so fabrication time
So I started working on a patch for it a few days ago
And fitting, trimming and adjusting as needed
After welding in place, some minor grinding and a coat of black primer, it’s done
Can’t even tell where the old ended and the new patch begins - sometimes I even impress myself lol!
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Plus a but more progress today - got the passenger side remote mirror mounting holes drilled as well as 4 holes drilled and nut serts installed for some external trim I decided to add. Still to do on the inside of the passenger door is the mounting holes for DART 270 emblem and the remote mirror control knob.
Hope to get the sandblast guy back here Monday.
Hope to get the sandblast guy back here Monday.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Don....so glad your attacking this.
This is my thread on my a518/46rh conversion.
727 46RH conversion coming
I was going to go the PATC route too but found this great thread from Cuda-challenger.com that I thought worked better for what I wanted and only required one pressure switch with 2 timed relays. The first to engage OD after the set pressure (speed) was attained, then the lockup 10 seconds after that. One power switch like you’d like to have for on/off.
Take a look and see what you think. I love how it works.
This is my thread on my a518/46rh conversion.
727 46RH conversion coming
I was going to go the PATC route too but found this great thread from Cuda-challenger.com that I thought worked better for what I wanted and only required one pressure switch with 2 timed relays. The first to engage OD after the set pressure (speed) was attained, then the lockup 10 seconds after that. One power switch like you’d like to have for on/off.
Take a look and see what you think. I love how it works.
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
This is the thread from cuda-challenger.com
727 to A518 swap a novice guide
Many thanks to member katfish there.
727 to A518 swap a novice guide
Many thanks to member katfish there.
Just piddling around today - got “that black thing” my wife said was preventing the AC vent from going in place relocated about 2 inches to the right of the AC vent.. it is the Dakota Digital PAC1300 unit. I did sort of stretch the wiring to do so so i suspect I’ll be doing some more wiring “adjustments“.
My better half and I got the passenger door safely laying down on sawhorses so I could drill the holes for the inside DART270 door emblem and for the passenger remote Knob control Unit. Passenger door is now officially done with drilling interior/exterior holes.
The white spots on the lower door are for the GT door (and eventually fender) portholes or maybe simulated exhaust ports. I ran it by @65dartcharger who said it would add the GT touch and go for it and for providing the measurements Of where they actually go.
My better half and I got the passenger door safely laying down on sawhorses so I could drill the holes for the inside DART270 door emblem and for the passenger remote Knob control Unit. Passenger door is now officially done with drilling interior/exterior holes.
The white spots on the lower door are for the GT door (and eventually fender) portholes or maybe simulated exhaust ports. I ran it by @65dartcharger who said it would add the GT touch and go for it and for providing the measurements Of where they actually go.
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Great work Don!
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