65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery

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I found a couple well used (dented) dust covers. I’d like to find some new ones but at $13 or more for new ones each, might have to let the Magnum 500s hide the covers
 
I’m getting ready to install the rotors and front brakes - NOS Calipers and hold down hardware I bought from @slantsixdan, new F Body brake hoses (the calipers will be mounted to the rear so the longer F Body hoses are required), and new Wagner semi metallic brake shoes through Amazon

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I found some used hardware to secure the rotors to the spindle (one set shown)

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But decided to order new since I only had one special washer

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I’m in a quandary about the well used and dented dust covers. Do I use the used and hide them with the wheel or bite the bullet for new ones?

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Now it’s time to clean and paint the conterlink

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Add the NOS idler arm to the K Frame

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and add the NOS pitman arm to the steering box

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The tie the two together with the centerlink


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Next will be add the solid tie rod sleeves and NOS 11/16ths toe rods. Leave them in their natural finish or paint black?

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I would go black. Such a great restoration demands black front end components.
 
Installed each rotor and then caliper with new pads and bleeder at the top. I’m surprised that the caliper holddown packet had 12 mm bolts where the bolt holes on the caliper adapters was 5/16th NC. I will get to Lowes in a day or two for some Stainless Steel bolts and washers of the correct length

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I need to raise this side (passenger side) so it won’t slide on the floor.
 
Installed each rotor and then caliper with new pads and bleeder at the top. I’m surprised that the caliper holddown packet had 12 mm bolts where the bolt holes on the caliper adapters was 5/16th NC. I will get to Lowes in a day or two for some Stainless Steel bolts and washers of the correct length

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I need to raise this side (passenger side) so it won’t slide on the floor.
Nice work Don :thumbsup:
 
On my ’65, I mounted the rotors to the rear and had a problem with them hitting and preventing full steering travel. Luckily, I didn’t tighten everything so was easily changed back.
 
On my ’65, I mounted the rotors to the rear and had a problem with them hitting and preventing full steering travel. Luckily, I didn’t tighten everything so was easily changed back.

Thanks for replying. I am curious as what/where were the calipers hitting
To prevent the wheels from full steering travel.
 
I searched all my pics and unfortunately wasn’t able to find any. Apparently when I test fitted and found the interference, I swapped back to the correct locations. All done without taking time to document with pics or notes. Sorry I wasn't more helpful.
But I recommend you test fit for yourself and make your own determination. Possibly yours could have something different than mine.
Before I did my conversion there were posts on various sites describing how easy it was to move the calipers to the rear. I didn’t get around to it for quite a few years, so did more research when I was ready for the conversion. There was nothing found about any interference with the relocation.
 
On my ’65, I mounted the rotors to the rear and had a problem with them hitting and preventing full steering travel.

I was just thinking - were you using - the 65-72 4 piston Kelsey Hayes or the 74-76 single piston like I’m using?
 
I have the single piston like yours and swapped the spindles side-side. I don’t remember how much travel was limited, so if there was only a small amount then there might be a geometry difference between mine and yours.
 
My gauge cluster is a custom set of Dakota Digital gauges housed within a 66 Barracuda instrument bezel.

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With the Dakota Digital system, up to an additional 16 specialty gauges can be displayed in the main menu cluster without having to resort to underdash or A pillar pods. I decided to add separate engine and transmission temperature readouts. It’s as simple as adding a 1/8 NPT bung to the oil and/or transmission pans (which I welded in place), add the sensor snd run the cable to the the temperature modules. I’ll add the cables just prior to lifting the engine, transmission and K Frame in place.

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Knowing that my outer wheel bearings on my brand new front end brakes would be protected by one of these crappy looking, dented caps,

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i couldn’t stand it anymore and bit the bullet and bought new ones.

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THIS IS NOT A FOR SALE AD!!

I have not done much of anything with the Dart lately as I have been trying to finish a set of 66/67 Charger front and rear bucket seats to bring to the Mopar Nationals. The back story on these is I had bought a 67 Charger from an acquaintance and later sold it back to him when he developed a severe case of buyer’s remorse. In between buying and selling back the car I found a complete interior - front buckets, rear buckets and buddy seat - in a junked and wrecked 66 or 67 Charger. So I grabbed the interior and then ordered a complete interior package from Legendary. Then eventually sold the car back to the guy who sold me the car. But kept the interior seats and upholstery stuff I had bought. Fast forward to several months ago when I decided to rebuild the seats with the new upholstery I had and take everything to the Nationals in August to try and sell. Even with new foam, burlap to protect the foam and upholstery, it’s not as easy as a simple install. I am within striking distance - both front buckets and the buddy seat are done as is both rear seat cushions and one rear seatbck. I am currently trying to get the other rear swatback ready for all the undlayment - burlap, foam etc

Prior to me pulling the seats at the junkyard, someone grabbed the driver’s side tracks but left the passenger side so I’m missing that track. One rear seatback is missing a couple of trim pieces

. If they don’t sell at the Nationals, i’ll have brand new seats fir my 47 Dodge

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I haven’t done much of anything to the Dart as I was doing the 67 B Body seats pictured in my previous post. No, they didn’t sell at the nationals so brought them home of course. I’ll use them in my 47. So i got a very long list of stuff I need to accomplish in order to drive this thing to Carlisle or/both the Nationals.

My wife picked the one of the jobs for me - construct a new dome light harness. It’s actually a pair of LED lights to be mounted on each side above the shoulder belts. With new red and yellow wires taped up, it went together pretty easy.
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Well, again work on the Dart has slowed to a dead stop. Reason - it’s cold as blue blazes out in the garage area. The wood stove out in the other section of the basement just doesn’t throw any heat out through the connecting door. Come on warm weather!
 
I got started on the seat cushion today. Where I left off
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First, hog ring the burlap around the perimeter of the springs

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Then hog ring the
felt over the burlap also around the spring perimeter

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After gluing muslin at all 4 sides of the brand new Legendary seat foam, the foam was fitted to the prepared seat frame. The muslin was then hog ringed to the appropriate places on the seat frame - front, rear and sides.

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Then added the cushion’s heated seat pad

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Then I spent the afternoon wrangling with the cover. I got 3 of the 4 corners mostly in place. Once I finally get the last cornersort of in place, I’ll work the erinkles out and hog ring it to the frame. Getting the cover over the foam is easier said than done. I tried Jerry’s @sgrip65 baby powder suggesstion and that was a no go. Legendary makes it look very easy - not in this amateur’s opinion

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TO BE CONTINUED
since we do convertible tops also in our shop we use the leftover canvas from the tops as a bolster instead of burlap. we also do everything in our power to save the LATEX buns instead of putting in new cores since a lot of customers say they don't feel the same as original latex foam buns do. noce covering job though
 
noce covering job though

Thanks. I was going to use a 65 Barracuda interior in the 47 cause I had it. I probably would have needed to replace the 60 year old foam and burlap. I was glad those Charger seats didn’t sell since they’re ready to go
 
My youngest son stopped by to shoot the **** and of course the topic was the wagon and 47. He didn’t know that I bought a 318 stroker crank kit for the motor we went to MD to pick up. Told him the crank and an overbore on the 318 would yield 390 cubes. He knew that the dual quad D66 was for that motor since we picked it up as the same time as the motor. He figured it was for the 47. Then I showed him the triple SU intake and the picture of the triple SU manifold and carbs.

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He thought for a moment and said that i need to put the slant with the SUs in the 47, scrap the idea of the 273/235 in the 65 and go with the stroker dual quad 318 instead.

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Interesting idea! For those of you following this thread, what say you?
 
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