that’s the way we did it from underneath where you can see the holes
65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
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that’s the way we did it from underneath where you can see the holes
Looks great with those heated seat switches but your car will stand out in those Magnum 500 wheels!
I’ve always loved the Magnum 500’s on the B Bodies. since I had them for a long gone 67 Charger, why not use them on my 65 especially since these 14’s do clear the rear disc calipers!
I think you have done a great choise!
Re the fuel system, did you use the factory 5/16" fuel line or did you upgrade it to 3/8"? I'm not sure when the need accur!
According to Holley the 5/16th fuel line is more than enough when using their
in-tank pump/sending unit and Sniper system. So, I am using the stock 5/16th back to front hard line (which I’ve had for at least 8-9 years maybe longer!).
in-tank pump/sending unit and Sniper system. So, I am using the stock 5/16th back to front hard line (which I’ve had for at least 8-9 years maybe longer!).
I remembered I needed to take a pic of the rear seat after installation IDK why the seat cushion looks so wrinkled; it has a small wrinkle but the pic makes it look worse than what it is. I did the upholstery on both the seat cushion and back maybe 7-8 years ago during a major snowstorm as I was bored. I packed each one in large trash bags and securely taped them closed.
I thought the 67-later rear carpet would fill the spaces on each sude of the rear seat cushion. Nope! The silver seen in the pic is Kilmat. I will have to splice some carpet in to both sides
View attachment 1715803775
I thought the 67-later rear carpet would fill the spaces on each sude of the rear seat cushion. Nope! The silver seen in the pic is Kilmat. I will have to splice some carpet in to both sides
View attachment 1715803775
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Hi Don. Wrinkles? I had the same with my rear lower! I think that sitting in the sun for a bit and having a few people slide across the seat a time or two and you won't see the wrinkles anymore. At least mine disappeared. Nice looking just the same...thanks for sharing your build progress. Sgrip65
Thanks Jerry - i suspect that back seat will remain unoccupied since it’s likely the seat back will always be down since it’s just me and Judy
I finished installing the Holley combination sending unit/fuel injection (model # 12-319) which is for 63-76 A bodies to ny reproduction gas tank. The install was fairly straightforward - Holley uses a porous mat called a HydraMat which provides fuel to the pump in low fuel situations (the yellowish thing on the far right). It is installed to the inlet fitting at the bottom of the fuel pump. Then per the instructions the sending unit/float assembly is removed from its bracket on the fuel line tube to facilitate installation. The mat is installed first followed by the pump. Then the sending unit is re-attached to it’s mounting bracket and fed into the opening. After installing the gasket to seal the unit, then the lock ring gets installed. The wiring is straightforward with the pump ground to the battery, another ground for the sending unit, a wire to the gas gauge, and a power wire to a Bosch-style relay which is (user supplied). Holley Tech Support recommends using the Sniper’s built in relay to trigger the fuel pump relay.
EDIT: the instructions say use a minimum of 12 gauge wire to connect the power wire. I thought why use 12 gauge when the wires coming out of the pump are 14 gauge. I called Holley Tech (and got through really fast!) and the Tech agreed with me. He confirmed to use the same gauge as the wires from the pump.
Today was tank install day so got my buddy to stop by since he’d volunteered to assist in the installation.
Tank was almost ready to hoist in place after the new tank seal installed. I nearly forgot to install some tank to floor cushioning.
With the tar paper cushion glued on, the tank is now ready to install
The new floor seal from DMT needs to be slid on the filler pipe prior to installing the filler pipe into the tank. With a little WD40at the tank seal, the pipe sort of slid on in (it was definitely a 2 person job working with the filler pipe and jockeying the tank around at the same time! I need the proper size stainless steel screws to secure the floor seal.
Not shown is the filler pipe to quarter panel seal - also from DMT. Until i can get the right size stainless steel screws, i used a couple of regular screws to secure the filler pipe flange to the quarter panel
With the filler tube installed, it appears there’s some kind of plate or seal that is mounted on the inside. there are screw holes so something must go there! I don’t recall removing one. Anyone following this build who has a wagon (@65dartcharger ) have any pics of what I’m missing? There is a wagon in a junkyard about 40 mikes from here that hopefully has this missing part!
EDIT: the instructions say use a minimum of 12 gauge wire to connect the power wire. I thought why use 12 gauge when the wires coming out of the pump are 14 gauge. I called Holley Tech (and got through really fast!) and the Tech agreed with me. He confirmed to use the same gauge as the wires from the pump.
Today was tank install day so got my buddy to stop by since he’d volunteered to assist in the installation.
Tank was almost ready to hoist in place after the new tank seal installed. I nearly forgot to install some tank to floor cushioning.
With the tar paper cushion glued on, the tank is now ready to install
The new floor seal from DMT needs to be slid on the filler pipe prior to installing the filler pipe into the tank. With a little WD40at the tank seal, the pipe sort of slid on in (it was definitely a 2 person job working with the filler pipe and jockeying the tank around at the same time! I need the proper size stainless steel screws to secure the floor seal.
Not shown is the filler pipe to quarter panel seal - also from DMT. Until i can get the right size stainless steel screws, i used a couple of regular screws to secure the filler pipe flange to the quarter panel
With the filler tube installed, it appears there’s some kind of plate or seal that is mounted on the inside. there are screw holes so something must go there! I don’t recall removing one. Anyone following this build who has a wagon (@65dartcharger ) have any pics of what I’m missing? There is a wagon in a junkyard about 40 mikes from here that hopefully has this missing part!
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If anyone wants to see the instructions for the fuel pump sending unit combo, I will be happy to post pics of the information
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Don, Very nice looking work and great documentation. I noticed that your custom tank does not have the appearance of galvanized metal as mine was. What is the finish on your your tank? Thanks for posting. Sgrip65
Good morning my friend! This is what you are missing. The rubber grommet that the fuel pipe go throught. I put it in a padded envelope and ship today.
Hi Jerry - i was wondering about that myself. My buddy who was helping me (my paint/bodyman friend) said it was some kind of epoxy finish that didn’t scratch very easy. It appears the Inside is galvanized or similar.
i did some checking online and bought it from carparts.com which happens to be from/or a subsidiary of J.C. Whitney. It seems to be identical to the original in every respect even though it was made in Taiwan.
Thank you Ulf. It looks like it might be made of rubber?
Yes, with a metal plate casted in it. I posted it 1 hour ago. 5 to 7 days according the postoffice.
Much as I hate to, the tank and filler tube will need to come back out to install that seal! One step forward 3 backwards lol!
Garethw
Mopar. Because rocket science is too easy.
Yeah, nothing more frustrating than repeating a job like that. Best to do it right though.
So true! I see others have had the same issues of 1 forward 2 back so i don’t feel too bad
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Hello Don. Much as I hate to say it, but all I can see is a "LIKE" button! Nobody "LIKES" doing work twice. I will press the "Thanks" button. Thanks for the update as your efforts will save that problem for others to go through. Sgrip65
The electronic harness from the sending unit, is it positive and ground?
From the pump there's a power wire that goes to a relay and a ground wire directly to the battery ground. From the sending unit one wire goes to the gauge and the last wire to chassis ground. My Dakota Digital module requires a separate ground wire from the sending unit to the module, which when i ran the sending unit wires, i was prepared for that. I shall use the regular ground strap from the hard line and sending unit by soldering my pre-run ground wire to the strap. It should be fine!
I decided to see if I could somehow route the Dakota Digital oil pressure and water temperature harnesses from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment without drilling any new holes in the firewall. The Oil and Water Temperature sending units are grounded at the block snd connected by 2 or more wires to the main module, which I shall install on the driver’s kick panel (the only real place it can be mounted under the dash. Water temperature on the left; oll pressure sending unit on the right
I decided I can use 2 of the Z Bar plste mounting holes in the lower area of the driver’s inner fender. Because these harnesses have their own rubber outer protective sheathq, it should be no problem routing in this manner. As seen looking under the fender.
I had previously decided to eliminate the A Body emergency brake handle and cable setup, i could route the the OIl Pressure and Water Temp cables where the old E Brske cable passed through the firewall between the inner and outer fender. If I decide I need an emergency brake, i have sn EStopp knock-off electronic emergency brake setup I will install.
The speedometer cable is installed with a stock OEM grommet through the firewall in the stock location. I had Texas Electronics build a new cable with a stock-style cable end to fit the A500’s speedo gear’s housing and the end going inside the passenger compartment to fit the Dakota Digital signal generator that electronically connects to the brain box. The cable looks brand new because it is!
This is the custom end that the Dakota Digital speedo signal generator screws on to
and the signal generator which connects it to the brain box.
i forgot to wrap with the non-sticky harness tape the wires to the blower motor and AC compressor power wires. Got that done as well as wrapped the power wire and ground wire from the blower motor.
I decided I can use 2 of the Z Bar plste mounting holes in the lower area of the driver’s inner fender. Because these harnesses have their own rubber outer protective sheathq, it should be no problem routing in this manner. As seen looking under the fender.
I had previously decided to eliminate the A Body emergency brake handle and cable setup, i could route the the OIl Pressure and Water Temp cables where the old E Brske cable passed through the firewall between the inner and outer fender. If I decide I need an emergency brake, i have sn EStopp knock-off electronic emergency brake setup I will install.
The speedometer cable is installed with a stock OEM grommet through the firewall in the stock location. I had Texas Electronics build a new cable with a stock-style cable end to fit the A500’s speedo gear’s housing and the end going inside the passenger compartment to fit the Dakota Digital signal generator that electronically connects to the brain box. The cable looks brand new because it is!
This is the custom end that the Dakota Digital speedo signal generator screws on to
and the signal generator which connects it to the brain box.
i forgot to wrap with the non-sticky harness tape the wires to the blower motor and AC compressor power wires. Got that done as well as wrapped the power wire and ground wire from the blower motor.
Yes please I'm about to do this.
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