I've replaced the switch already but didn't check the connector... So you think it was the light switch connector that propablyTest first.
Changing wires under the dash is not easy. May not even be a problem.
Headlight switch connector is more of a concern because you saw or smelled it smoke.
Just a possibility. If it was really bad you probably would have noticed. If you have the old switch look at the terminals to see if they have sighns of overheating. If so, then might be worth checking the connector. With relays off of the alternator, then its not so important. I got away with a damaged connector for years that way.I've replaced the switch already but didn't check the connector... So you think it was the light switch connector that propably
started melting?
Thanks mate. Imma gonna read it later. It's 1am here and I can't even see the letters anymore lolJust a possibility. If it was really bad you probably would have noticed. If you have the old switch look at the terminals to see if they have sighns of overheating. If so, then might be worth checking the connector. With relays off of the alternator, then its not so important. I got away with a damaged connector for years that way.
Okay interesting. I've lots of time tomorrow to fix this bi***Good I have to make dinner!
Maybe tommorrow you can take some more photos of the engine bay. 1974 models can have some extra electrical stuff for safety and emissions - at least the ones sold in the US (maybe Canada too).
Which part? The run line branches off. The blue alernator field wire is one of the branches. What I was speaking of, the relay, you want to break the "run" soon after it comes out of the bulkhead before it branches offOkay thank u mate. Imma gonna check it asap and share the results here. You mean the blue line ("run" line) from the ignition switch to VR on the chart @mattex posted on top of this thread, right?
Three connectors and heavy wiring. Likely a heavy duty system. Lets figure it out.
Begining at the battery. Red wire (A1) goes to the starter relay shown here.
View attachment 1716023035
We see a junction here with two other wires. One large red wire and the other a black? fusible link.
Next.
View attachment 1716023029
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Not what we are seeing here a the grommet - Other than its probably to the ammeter. Will come back to this.
We also see a red wire to a connector possibly going to the multiconnector.
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Looking at this one we see another red wire and connector that may be going into the multiconnector.
Do you have a picture of the original voltage regulator and connections?
Let me get my dinner cooking and will come back in bit.
Okay you asked here some thingsYes. The book diagrams are not that clear on these options. We'll have to figure out what is actually on Mark's car.
Post 1. Back of ammeter photos show two wires at the black wire junction.
According to the shop manual, there should be three with 60 amp alternator and the rear window defroster grid.
Side note. Looks like the insulation is cracked and the connections are not exactly clean. Next time in there ( with the battery disconnected, remove clean, and reinstall.) Unless you see serious damage, a dab of liquid electrical tape should close up the insulation damage.
Post 18. First photo shows 3 wires battery wires at relay junction.
View attachment 1716023128
One is from the battery.
Can you see where the second red wire goes? or does it gointo the wrapped harness?
The diagrams show the fuseable link is the line going to the ammeter through the grommet.
Does this fusible link connect to a red wire going to the grommet. If not, where does it go?
(it would be a good idea to clean these connections too. again disconnect the battery first.)
Same post, photos show a heavy red wire coming out of the harness with a round white connector.
Where does it connect to? A fusible link?
View attachment 1716023130
Finally there are two black wires coming out of the grommet.
One comes from the alternator output.
What does the other connect to?
View attachment 1716023131
This is the diagram so far.
With the questions above answered and some more photos probably can figure it out.
View attachment 1716023132
Explanation of the wire codes.
A is Battery related. A1 is a branch and A1A is the first segment. 10 R is 10 gage Red insulation.
R is alternator related. R6 is alternator output. R3 is control of the rotor power.
J is Ignition related, although by 1974 that includes the feed into the key switch, power to alternator, and the electric choke.
J1 is power to key switch, J2 is run.
If you see more in the service manual that may cover the two black wires through the grommet, please post.A little more information about "the red wire you asked about." From the factory service manual, starting from the B post on the starter relay - A1B 10R connects to fusible link A1C 16DBL which enters into bulkhead connector J. Then color changes to red A1 D12R on dash side of firewall which is capped off near ammeter. This wire is capped off because its not used with the 60 amp option.
It's possible they are spliced into a junction.To the two black wires coming out the grommet. They merge into a single thick brown cable that goes right on top of the alternator.
It seems likely this a segment from the standard wiring (as townsend wrote) and is no longer used for any circuits.The red wire you asked if it is connected to a fusible link, yes is does. The wire goes from the starter relay into the harness, then it goes into the white connector. Then, it continues as a black or smth wire to a fusible link which ends in the bulkhead connector (you can actually see it between left and middle connector on the bulkhead)
I've already put in a new VR and the new battery isn't overcharging, but I still need to check all those things you've talked about here I guess.Overvoltage is almost always easy
1...Can be shorted brush holder in the alternator causing it to "full field." This will have to be on the green wire connection, OR a short in the green to ground, which has happened
2...Poorly grounded VR or ungrounded VR,
3...Bad VR
4...Drop in the ignition circuit, which powers the VR and thus causes it to "think" the battery is low, and ramp up charge
HOW TO FIND
A...Turn key to 'run', engine stopped. Hook one lead of multimeter to "run" buss as close as you can get to VR WITHOUT disconnecting anything. The ballast or the blue alternator field wire. Stab remaining meter lead into the battery POS post. You should read very little, the less the better. Over .3V (3/10 of 1 volt) you need to investigate drop in the "run" circuit
Above is where adding an ignition relay comes in, as I've mentioned before
B....Can be in VR ground circuit. Run engine to warm, normalize battery. With engine running on fast idle to simulate low to medium cruise RPM, stab one probe of meter into battery NEG post, and stab other into VR mounting flange. Be sure to get through chrome, paint, rust. As above, you hope to read very little, zero is perfect.
A good way to improve battery-to-body ground is to run a jumper from an unused hole on the rear of the driver side head to the firewall, such as the master cylinder mount studs. But a "Ford style" starter cable, AKA eyelet to eyelet about a foot, foot and a half long
5...Shorted brush. The green VR wire controls "the amount of ground" so to say on the field, which is supplied switched 12V on the blue wire. Pull the field wires, check each to the case for continuity. They should be open/ infinity.
6...If none of this fixes the problem, replace the VR. WHILE DOING SO, check the VR connector for good connection. I got "waylayed" as I was going to try this but I THINK a .177 caliber rifle cleaning brush will enter those connector terminals.
And that might have been it.I've already put in a new VR and the new battery isn't overcharging, but I still need to check all those things you've talked about here I guess.
Regulator part number from the 1973 parts Catalog shows it was used for all Chrysler alternators that year.This is the original VR
I don't quite understand. The original VR in my car I had to replace has the parts number 3438 150, just like the one on top. But the 65amp had a different VR?Regulator part number from the 1973 parts Catalog shows it was used for all Chrysler alternators that year.
So your replacement is probably fine for the application. At least as fine as replacement parts are these days.
View attachment 1716023370
The 65 amp L/C listed in that book is a Leece Neville alternator, and thats why it gets a different regulator.
That is correct. The part number of the regulator you removed was in 1973 parts book as used for all Chrysler alternators.I don't quite understand. The original VR in my car I had to replace has the parts number 3438 150, just like the one on top. But the 65amp had a different VR?
The replacement is an SMP VR125.
I went to my car cuz I was wondering if I could find something and I've found this. The part number is 3438713 and the black dot is an indication for the 65amp I guess.That is correct. The part number of the regulator you removed was in 1973 parts book as used for all Chrysler alternators.
The '65 amp L/N' alternator listed in the '73 parts book was not made by Chrysler, but by Leece Neville and has slightly different wiring.
I took look at Hamtramck Historical's Library, and the '74 sales books list the alternator with defogger as '65 amp' like you found.
See page 15 The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1974 Dodge Dealership Data Book - Dart
It's a confusing naming convention and its not standardized.
If your car's alternator is original, the '74 Service Manual shows
View attachment 1716023377
Those tags made it easier than looking upo the part numbers.
Note these ratings are just names. They very roughly indicate the maximum that they can provide.
For normal driving, they only need to keep the car running, which is around 5 to 7 amps for your car.
With headlights, wipers, heater fan on, the demand will be closer to 30 amps.
The electric rear defroster draws alot of current just by itself, that's why your car got the optional alternator, heavy battery, and wiring modifications.
That's just the casting part number.I went to my car cuz I was wondering if I could find something and I've found this. The part number is 3438713 and the black dot is an indication for the 65amp I guess.
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