'66 Barracuda rear axle question

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1974DartSwinger

1974DartSwinger

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So the "mystery noise" seems to be my Right Rear wheel bearing. I pulled the diff cover off and the ring/pinion looked perfect. Added some primo synthetic axle lube (that my buddy snagged from the jeep dealership he works at haha). The noise is still there, I was pretty sure it was a wheel bearing thinking about going out and its slowly but surely getting worse. Sounds like a perfect weekend project! woohoo

Ok, question . . . I'm still fairly new to the whole RWD muscle car gig and these early A-bods are a bird of their own. I've got the stock 7 1/4 axle, what kind of bearings am I dealing with here? Are there just a set inner/outer that the drum mounts on? Is there another bearing hiding somewhere along the axle or towards the diff?
Would anyone be so kind to give me a little play-by-play how to do this bearing swap? Do I need to pull the diff cover; I've heard the 7 1/4s don't have clips holding the axles in.

Last question . . . how about which bearings to use? Any company makes better ones or just go with whatever NAPA has?

Thanks!!!
Its been about 1 1/2 months of owning this sweet car and I've put over 2,500 miles on her already! Gotta love it :)
 
The 7 1/4 does not have clips holging the axles at the diff, so thats easy. To remove the axle remove the wheel and drum. There is a large hole in the axle flange. Through it you will remove the 4 axle retaining nuts. Just rotate it around to access each one in turn.

Now the axle may slide right out or you may need a slide hammer to help as it most likely not been out in a very long time.

Once its out take it to a shop to remove and install the new bearing on a press. Replace the axle seal at this time and re-assemble.

I don't have the 66 Service Manual on a disk or I would post the procedure for you. If your new to the game you should consider picking up a factory manual. I know I refer back to it alot and I was an ASE Certified Tech.

I hope this helps.
 
The bearing is a sealed type. There is a press-on shaft retainer. Unless you have the press and a bearing spreader (or know how to use a chisel to remove retainer) it is best to take it to a shop. The retainer can be heated in hot oil to (expand) and replace, it takes skill/experience.
 
Thanks Roger! I think I'll be able to figure it out from what you said. Yeah, I have been meaning to order a FSM on disk from E-bay but just havent yet. The previous owner has a real-deal '66 FSM that I'm going to grab next time we see each other.

So do you really think I need to take the axle in to have the bearing pressed off and new one on? Could I get away with a nice ol' cold chisel and my 5lb hand sledge? then use a big socket to drive the new one on?
Being a full-time student makes you cheap :)
Any tips on which brand bearings to go with? Tmiken or whoever was what I was thinking
 
KitCarlson said:
The bearing is a sealed type. There is a press-on shaft retainer. Unless you have the press and a bearing spreader (or know how to use a chisel to remove retainer) it is best to take it to a shop. The retainer can be heated in hot oil to (expand) and replace, it takes skill/experience.
Click to expand...

1974DartSwinger said:
So do you really think I need to take the axle in to have the bearing pressed off and new one on? Could I get away with a nice ol' cold chisel and my 5lb hand sledge? then use a big socket to drive the new one on?
Being a full-time student makes you cheap :)
Any tips on which brand bearings to go with? Tmiken or whoever was what I was thinking
Click to expand...

Like Kit said, Unless you have the right tools its a tough job. You might save some bucks by removing the bearing yourself, but I would have the new one pressed on at a shop. Less possibility of pressing it on unevenly.

Hey, I'm all for saving money when and where you can. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and pay the money. As for a manufacturer, Timken is good as well as SKF, check around as to whats avaliable. I usually check rockauto.com first. Check under "Brake/Wheel/hub" for bearings, they list a SKF bearing for the 7.25 rear for $24.99, SKF Part # RWF34R.
 
First, make sure it's the one you think it bad by using a stethoscope (sp) or wooden dowel up to your ear to verify it's the one you suspect. Those rear end noises can transmit around and fool the best of us. The 7 1/4 uses a single ball type axle bearing that is pressed onto the axle shaft along with a lock ring. Unless your deep socket is 3 feet long, you'll need a hydrolic press to do the job right. As previously described, you can do the job without opening the cover. In fact, if you jack up the bad side while leaving the other side on the ground and you won't even have to drain any oil out. Just make sure you chalk those front wheels!
 
If you can buy the bearing at place that has a machine shop, and sells parts they might help you out with the press if you buy both bearings and seals.

I have purchased bearings at industrial bearing suppliers, they often have bearings and seals and sometimes a press, check first. They go by the part numbers on the parts. You will need the parts off, to take in. I have found the prices to be good too.
 
I went to advanced auto and ordered the wheel bearings and a seal. They are "National" brand, the guy said its good stuff . . .anyone hear of national before? They should be here by Saturday so we'll see what happens . . .
 
They could be playing a word game with you. Did they say the parts are from a national brand or that the company that made the part is called National? The company National Seal makes nice seals and has been around forever but I've never heard of them making bearings. Timken, SKF, Bower/BCA are bearings I've had good luck with in the past...C/R (Chicago Rawhide) is another good seal company.
 
National is a bearing manufacturer, FederalMogul is the parent company, I think they might be USA but they have "many" manufacturing locations. If they press off the bearing, try to have them save the retainer plate as they get bent up sometimes and they are not replaceable when the bearing is on. Yiou can use the tire as a slide hammer , put it on and just thread 3 lug nuts on a few threads and pull on the tire, itll come right out. The bearings are "dry" meaning they dont get oiled from the diff lube so pack 'em before you install and dont drag th, e axle over the bearing seal when you remove it (I may be thinking of the 8 3/4 on these tips)
 
pishta said:
National is a bearing manufacturer, FederalMogul is the parent company, I think they might be USA but they have "many" manufacturing locations. If they press off the bearing, try to have them save the retainer plate as they get bent up sometimes and they are not replaceable when the bearing is on. Yiou can use the tire as a slide hammer , put it on and just thread 3 lug nuts on a few threads and pull on the tire, itll come right out. The bearings are "dry" meaning they dont get oiled from the diff lube so pack 'em before you install and dont drag th, e axle over the bearing seal when you remove it (I may be thinking of the 8 3/4 on these tips)
Click to expand...
7 1/4 axle bearings are one piece sealed bearings. There is no way to pack them. Use a tire as a slide hammer? Good way to booger up the threads. Why not use a slide hammer as a slide hammer? You'll need one to pull the seal anyway.....
 
I got my bearing and seal today from the car parts store. It is a sealed one so atleast I dont have to get axle grease all over my hands packing it :)
I found a website:
http://www.dippy.org/svcman/sm03a.html
It talks about the 7 1/4 and the 8 1/4. I just want to make sure, there is NO CLIP on the 7 1/4 ??? From the description on this site they talk about removing one, but maybe thats just for the 8 1/4.
I dont want to be yanking on the axle shaft and end up breaking something because I didnt remove a little clip in the diff.

I think I will try to find a machine shop or some place with a press open on the weekend to have them do the bearing swap. Might as well do it right!
So the bearing is pressed onto the axle or pressed into the axle housing tube?
any other little things I need to know about before getting my hands dirty tomorrow?
Thanks everyone!!!
 
1974DartSwinger said:
I got my bearing and seal today from the car parts store. It is a sealed one so atleast I dont have to get axle grease all over my hands packing it :)
I found a website:
http://www.dippy.org/svcman/sm03a.html
It talks about the 7 1/4 and the 8 1/4. I just want to make sure, there is NO CLIP on the 7 1/4 ??? From the description on this site they talk about removing one, but maybe thats just for the 8 1/4.
I dont want to be yanking on the axle shaft and end up breaking something because I didnt remove a little clip in the diff.

I think I will try to find a machine shop or some place with a press open on the weekend to have them do the bearing swap. Might as well do it right!
So the bearing is pressed onto the axle or pressed into the axle housing tube?
any other little things I need to know about before getting my hands dirty tomorrow?
Thanks everyone!!!
Click to expand...
No C clip on a 7 1/4. The bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft. The seal is inside the axle tube.
 
cudamark said:
7 1/4 axle bearings are one piece sealed bearings. There is no way to pack them. Use a tire as a slide hammer? Good way to booger up the threads. Why not use a slide hammer as a slide hammer? You'll need one to pull the seal anyway.....
Click to expand...

7 1/4 bearing is a sealed unit, like a big skateboard bearing? Wow, its been a while since I blew up my 7 1/4! Slide hammers are great if you got one, with the axle adapter. If you didnt bring yours to pick-a-part, you find ways to get stuff out with what you got. Threads are tough, doubt if they would even feel one grate, thats all it takes. Your right, it takes a special tool for a special procedure to be done properly.
 
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