Well, I figure it'll be a breeze once I get the engine out. Plus I'll have these to copy.
I didn't want to risk wasting the much more expensive NiCu on my first bends.
66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
- Thread starter 360DartGT66
- Start date
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I didn't want to risk wasting the much more expensive NiCu on my first bends.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
copper bends super easy - bet he's planning to use them as templates for the good ones...
EDIT: didn't see above post before I posted - doh
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
Um, yep. See the post above yours. LOL
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
that's what happens when you don't "refresh" before you post..
Good day today. I decided to mount that strange Volvo pressure reduction valve for now. I'm still looking for something more 'correct'. Then I bent up the last piece of tubing, from the m/c rear brake circuit (front reservoir) to the distribution block. All done!
I don't have a brake push rod so I fabbed one from one of the bolts Ray sent me. Thanks again, @halifaxhops!
Then I mounted the driver's seat so the person helping me bleed the brakes would have something to lean on. It does look a little funny with the dice on the mirror with no interior ...
Then I bled the brakes with the help of my lovely wife. Had a few leaking fittings but I think the dripping has stopped now. Only managed to empty the reservoir once!
I couldn't help noticing how much the firewall flexes when the pedal is pushed. I might need to reinforce that a bit. I want a stiff brake setup.
I don't have a brake push rod so I fabbed one from one of the bolts Ray sent me. Thanks again, @halifaxhops!
Then I mounted the driver's seat so the person helping me bleed the brakes would have something to lean on. It does look a little funny with the dice on the mirror with no interior ...
Then I bled the brakes with the help of my lovely wife. Had a few leaking fittings but I think the dripping has stopped now. Only managed to empty the reservoir once!
I couldn't help noticing how much the firewall flexes when the pedal is pushed. I might need to reinforce that a bit. I want a stiff brake setup.
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I bet your wife has the procedure down pat now! My wife is my brake assistant too! They can compare notes next year lol!
Ha ha! She did very well, actually. Exceptionally well, considering it was her first time. For the other cars I have one of those lids that connect to the tire.
I didn't have the energy to work on the car last week, went to bed at 9 pm almost every night. Being at school with kids age 13-16 all day is exhausting. I hope I get used to it soon.
Anyway, yesterday afternoon I stole a few hours in the garage. I started getting the B&M shifter I bought from @ScampMike in place.
First up was to mount the shift lever and cable mounting bracket on the trans. The instructions said to replace two of the pan bolts with 5/16" bolts that came with the kit but the pan bolts were bigger. Good thing I had bolts from Ray!
Then to figure out where to put the shifter. The mounting holes on one side lined up PERFECTLY with two of the holes on the original floor shifter mounting bracket.
Too bad the shifter was backwards ... Took me a while to verify this. It sort of looked backwards when it was forward. So I cut the bracket out and dismounted the remaining linkage. I'll sell this of if I can find anyone interested here in Sweden. It's really worn and rackety.
When I found the right position for the shifter I marked out where to drill. The instructions said to use washers as spacers but that just seemed wrong ang ugly. So I decided to fab some mounting tabs and weld them to the trans tunnel.
I don't have much in the way of material laying around but my eyes fell on the chain tensioner originally from the front clip I bought from Ulf back in april. It was pretty badly rusted and I really should have let it soak in molasses for three weeks but I didn't feel like waiting so I ground the worst off with my angle grinder, trusty old friend from Hilti.
Marked some holes, drilled and tapped - straighter than usual!
Cut it up and broke the edges on my bench grinder, mounted on the shifter with 1/4" bolts and washers from the batch @halifaxhops sent me. I could have used M6 but why not go for UNC when I have it?
I then climbed into the cab with my Hilti ready and put the whole thing on the trans tunnel where I wanted it, expecting to spend half an hour grinding the tabs to line up with the sheet metal.
To my great amazement, they all fit PERFECTLY! There is a little bit if clearance on one of them but three line up with the trans tunnel stunningly well.
I was so pleased with myself that I decided to not push my luck and went for a run in stead. And besides, my welder is out in the summer house on the coast so I wasn't doing any welding anyway (I'll be bringing it home next weekend).
Oh, and I once again found the drawback to not having a sense of smell. I noticed my hip was sort of warm while I was cutting the mounting tabs from the scrap piece.
Anyway, yesterday afternoon I stole a few hours in the garage. I started getting the B&M shifter I bought from @ScampMike in place.
First up was to mount the shift lever and cable mounting bracket on the trans. The instructions said to replace two of the pan bolts with 5/16" bolts that came with the kit but the pan bolts were bigger. Good thing I had bolts from Ray!
Then to figure out where to put the shifter. The mounting holes on one side lined up PERFECTLY with two of the holes on the original floor shifter mounting bracket.
Too bad the shifter was backwards ... Took me a while to verify this. It sort of looked backwards when it was forward. So I cut the bracket out and dismounted the remaining linkage. I'll sell this of if I can find anyone interested here in Sweden. It's really worn and rackety.
When I found the right position for the shifter I marked out where to drill. The instructions said to use washers as spacers but that just seemed wrong ang ugly. So I decided to fab some mounting tabs and weld them to the trans tunnel.
I don't have much in the way of material laying around but my eyes fell on the chain tensioner originally from the front clip I bought from Ulf back in april. It was pretty badly rusted and I really should have let it soak in molasses for three weeks but I didn't feel like waiting so I ground the worst off with my angle grinder, trusty old friend from Hilti.
Marked some holes, drilled and tapped - straighter than usual!
Cut it up and broke the edges on my bench grinder, mounted on the shifter with 1/4" bolts and washers from the batch @halifaxhops sent me. I could have used M6 but why not go for UNC when I have it?
I then climbed into the cab with my Hilti ready and put the whole thing on the trans tunnel where I wanted it, expecting to spend half an hour grinding the tabs to line up with the sheet metal.
To my great amazement, they all fit PERFECTLY! There is a little bit if clearance on one of them but three line up with the trans tunnel stunningly well.
I was so pleased with myself that I decided to not push my luck and went for a run in stead. And besides, my welder is out in the summer house on the coast so I wasn't doing any welding anyway (I'll be bringing it home next weekend).
Oh, and I once again found the drawback to not having a sense of smell. I noticed my hip was sort of warm while I was cutting the mounting tabs from the scrap piece.
I finally got my shifter in place monday. My wife and I spent the weekend in the summer house without the kids, trying to get some renovation finished without the distraction of ... kids. I got my welder back from its summer hiatus out there, but I managed to forget the helmet - again. So I had to use my old gas welding goggles. As most of you probably know, they are not nearly as dark as the glass in the helmet gets when you do arc (TIG in this case) welding.
Anyway, A couple of the welds turned out ok.
The cable is mighty short for my setup. It works but I think I need to ge the U-turns on both ends a little smoother for a more effortless operation. Note the smoke from the newly burned rust protectant.
The routing isn't exactly optimal yet ...
Pretty happy with the way it turned out in the end. The position feels right.
Now I need to get my steering column secured. I realized the dash holds it in place. I wasn't planning on mounting it for my test drive but I might be forced to.
Or does anyone have a super tip on how to secure the column without it? A piece of wood jammed in there maybe?
Anyway, A couple of the welds turned out ok.
The cable is mighty short for my setup. It works but I think I need to ge the U-turns on both ends a little smoother for a more effortless operation. Note the smoke from the newly burned rust protectant.
The routing isn't exactly optimal yet ...
Pretty happy with the way it turned out in the end. The position feels right.
Now I need to get my steering column secured. I realized the dash holds it in place. I wasn't planning on mounting it for my test drive but I might be forced to.
Or does anyone have a super tip on how to secure the column without it? A piece of wood jammed in there maybe?
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Good job from what I am seeing, I like the height of the shifter as well, I see so many are just way to low for my short arms
You seem to be on a roll for someone with your time (Teaching and all) sir
You seem to be on a roll for someone with your time (Teaching and all) sir
*blushes*Good job from what I am seeing, I like the height of the shifter as well, I see so many are just way to low for my short arms
You seem to be on a roll for someone with your time (Teaching and all) sir
Thank you, mister meme! I try to cram in an hour now and then. Lost my steam lying under the car staring at the cable. I think I'll need to fabricate some brackets to keep the cable where it needs to be but I think it'll have to wait until I know where the exhaust ends up.
When I put my new floor pans in the drivers side it took a bunch of time cutting them out and cleaning edges then welding in, took my head off steam out as well sir 
I am glad my passenger sides floor pans was super solid
I am glad my passenger sides floor pans was super solid 
Thanks, friend! I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on your ported heads!
I have some cleaning up to do at the beginning of the thread since the pics were disconnected when the site moved to a new platform.
I wonder when I'm going to get that done ...
I know, I did a little recap in pictures in my thread. I don't think I will ever get around to posting them all back up.
Why not use the original clamp? Even when the dash is installed, that clamp is what holds the column to the brake pedal support assembly
I only took a very quick look, but as far I could tell, the clamp in the pic, that the column is resting on, pushes the column up into a portion of the dash. If the dash isn't there, the column will be as loose as it is in the picture where the nuts that clamp the clamp are bottomed.
I'd happily be wrong about this.
I took a look at it on my phone where I could blow the pic up. I see you have the column clamp. I took a look at the 65 Barracuda and the column is tight up against the support so IDK what it going on with yours!
Has the column been swapped to one to a locking ignition switch in the column? It looks like an ignition switch there.
Has the column been swapped to one to a locking ignition switch in the column? It looks like an ignition switch there.
It's not an ignition switch, it's a lock only that ANA added when they imported them back when.
I'll get a pic of the dash, that may clear the matter up.
I'll get a pic of the dash, that may clear the matter up.
An early A locking steering column - now there's something you won't see everyday! Perhaps the dash picture might clear up the mystery of the extra space between the column and the support.
A thin block of wood wood certainly fill the space.
I think Ulf said it was standard here. I think it's very dangerous, though, since you can start the car and drive away and not find out that the steering column is locked until it's too late.
Here are some pics. The column is 2 1/8" and the brace across the opening in the dash seems to fit that diameter well. There is a tab to keep the column from rotating in the locking clamp.
That clamp will hold it against the instrument panel which is connected with the brake pedal bracket.
Right. So if I'm not monuting the dash, I need to put something above the column to clamp against.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Can you legally in Sweden remove the steering column lock the importer installed? You could fill the hole they made for it 1ith JB weld and bodywork it, or get another one from the States.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Ouch thats pretty scary. I was welding in the floor pans on my brothers monte carlo SS and was under the car when i lit my hair on fire LOL. I had much longer hair back then. My niece cuts hair for a living. I asked her to please fix my lopsided head of hair.
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