Good for you Anders! Glad to see it coming together so nice!
66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
- Thread starter 360DartGT66
- Start date
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Well, I don't know about nice ... I'm more in love with it than ever though - and super, super stoked to get it finished!
Oh, and it actually had all three gears - and reverse! It seems to be almost clicking into drive when in neutral, though, so I think I have to adjust it just a little. Never had a chance to test the kick-down.
Congratulations on the first test drive! You are much farther ahead on either of my projects. Sounds like a pretty stout cam in there! Your son did a great job with the camera!
Thanks Don! Well, Maybe you'd like to go for a ride?
When you get here, around five in the afternoon I've arranged to visit Per (I can't remember his FABO nick) who lives close by. Then dinner at my place as promised. This will be on Thursday. Sound ok?
When you get here, around five in the afternoon I've arranged to visit Per (I can't remember his FABO nick) who lives close by. Then dinner at my place as promised. This will be on Thursday. Sound ok?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Sounds great. What kind of ignition setup are you using? Nice rumpity cam too. I too cant wait to see it completed.
Hey Matt!
It's a chinese electronic dizzy and a rip-off mopar ECU. Low-budget electronic. Now that you mention it, I might put in my dad's old capacitor discharge now that I've got it running.
It's a chinese electronic dizzy and a rip-off mopar ECU. Low-budget electronic. Now that you mention it, I might put in my dad's old capacitor discharge now that I've got it running.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Thats an idea or have you concidered using a GM HEI 4 pin module to fire that modar dizzy? No ballast resistor is used GM 4 pin setup uses a straight 12v
I got a nice mounting bracket that mounts the module right to the distributor. The GM module is mounted inside a GM distributor so its designed for a hot environment
I got a nice mounting bracket that mounts the module right to the distributor. The GM module is mounted inside a GM distributor so its designed for a hot environment
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I am headed to work, but will send you pix of my setup, and of a schematic i drew up for this. The GM 4 pin module is very common. Gives a way hotter spark, so you can widen your plug gap a little bit more. It will make for better starting, better mileage, and better accelleration over stock.
Send it if you've got it, sure!
I've been considering all sorts of solutions for ignition. Modern systems outperform the old ones by som much, I'm going to do something other than what I have today. Eventually.
I've been considering all sorts of solutions for ignition. Modern systems outperform the old ones by som much, I'm going to do something other than what I have today. Eventually.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
The mounting bracket i got is for a factory mopar electronic distributor w vacuum advance. If your distributor is a copy of a mopar one it should work. Bracket is made by www.designed2drive.com
Module is a GM HEI 4 pin module. Any mid 70s GM car or truck w HEI will use the same one. Its designed to go inside a GM distributor, so its designed to being mounted on a distributor and the heat issues.
When you do this mod, you eliminate the ballast resistor, and just hook both ballast wires together.
You will need either a GM remote mount or similar value E coil or a pertronix ignitor 3 oil filled coil to get the proper primary ohms.
My schematic below is somewhat crude but i think easy to follow. I went oil filled pertronix for that stealthy stock look. I also made an 90° adaptor to connect the GM module to the mopar magnetic sensor pickup plug.
Search youtube for vids on this mod. I think it will suprise you. It will take some of the choppyness out of your idle, and improve your starting, as well as give you better throttle response and accelleration.
I like this setup because the module is somewhat hidden, a stock mopar distributor is used, hot spark, dirt cheap. Bracket is $25, and a GM stock module from napa auto parts is about $15 . Coil cost is wherever your source it from. So under $75 for a hot ignition system.
I hope this helps.
Module is a GM HEI 4 pin module. Any mid 70s GM car or truck w HEI will use the same one. Its designed to go inside a GM distributor, so its designed to being mounted on a distributor and the heat issues.
When you do this mod, you eliminate the ballast resistor, and just hook both ballast wires together.
You will need either a GM remote mount or similar value E coil or a pertronix ignitor 3 oil filled coil to get the proper primary ohms.
My schematic below is somewhat crude but i think easy to follow. I went oil filled pertronix for that stealthy stock look. I also made an 90° adaptor to connect the GM module to the mopar magnetic sensor pickup plug.
Search youtube for vids on this mod. I think it will suprise you. It will take some of the choppyness out of your idle, and improve your starting, as well as give you better throttle response and accelleration.
I like this setup because the module is somewhat hidden, a stock mopar distributor is used, hot spark, dirt cheap. Bracket is $25, and a GM stock module from napa auto parts is about $15 . Coil cost is wherever your source it from. So under $75 for a hot ignition system.
I hope this helps.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Going to start calling you perry the platypus
That is a neat installation! I'm going to seriously consider this option. Thanks, Matt!
If you have that schematic in a higher resolution, I'd be happy if you could e-mail it to me. My eyes are getting old, friend.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I will scan the original, and send from my work email. PM me with your email addy, and i will send it to you.
BTW check out my other build thread. Or parts collection thread actually for my sons car. Its called 67/68/69 cuda dilemma
BTW check out my other build thread. Or parts collection thread actually for my sons car. Its called 67/68/69 cuda dilemma
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Somehow its in general discussions, but prob should be moved to the restoration thread.
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I ordered that same bracket for my electronic dizzy for the wagon. After seeing your Dart, I am anxious to get back and continue work on the wagon. Nothing like talking with and seeing another Mopar fanatic’s car and their progress! Thanks Anders, for the inspiration!
Yes, meeting like minded sure ups the inspiration! I'm sooo eager to get mine ready now. Currently, I'm pondering how to get rid of the torsion bars for the hood and trunk lid. I need to size gas struts. I think I can do that in Fusion360.
Am I the only one with this problem? Checking the timing is close to impossible. I could do it when I had the battery up on the inner fender but now when it’s on the battery tray, I can’t get the timing light in there at all and this is the only view I have of the flywheel and scale.
No torsion bars. I like it better already. I’ll have to find something to zip-tie the ignition coil to, though.
That timing is like that in the trick, just have to add jumpers to the battery lead and watch the fan! Looking good Anders
The thing Anders is that you have a later timing cover with an early sb water pump. Those timing covers was used with the outlet from the water pump to the right!☺
Right. Well, I figured I’d need to replace the water pump but I guess it would be better to change timing cover since my radiator has the outlet in the driver’s side lower corner.
Thanks!
Well how about that. I stole the gas struts including studs from the rear hatch on our old Audi A6. All done! They are 650N each but I won’t know if that’s enough until I mount the hood.
Pretty quick fix, though.
Pretty quick fix, though.
Practically made for it.
How annoying.
I’d say that ideally, you shouldn’t mount the hood on your own. Even on the little A-bodies.
I’d say that ideally, you shouldn’t mount the hood on your own. Even on the little A-bodies.
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