And a condenser in front
'66 Valiant Running Hotter than Expected
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
- Start date
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And a condenser in front
"All in" really means little without the rpm info. Regardless I stand by my earlier posts here. Its a sidetrack.
Investigate the basics first.
Only other basic to add would be to test the cap and system with a pressure tester.
Investigate the basics first.
Only other basic to add would be to test the cap and system with a pressure tester.
I have very light springs in it it’s all in by 2500 RPM more than likely less. And 75 to 80 miles an hour I’m probably turning 3000 3200 RPM.
A instructor always preached that. Go back to the basics and never overlook the obvious. A bad radiator cap could cause all the issues.
Done. Cap starts to leak off slightly at 13 lbs and is fully blown open at 16 lbs. Coolant level is where it was 6 months ago and has held the same pressure for the last 30 minutes.
Well then its not retarded. If anything slightly too much advance under load. So not the cause of overheating.
After those two, then check the temperature difference of the tanks and/or hoses after a drive.
Correct pulleys for a '66 with AC (it took a lot of searching)...
You can see it starting to flow at 175 and lots of turbulence at 180 and stays there.
Yup. I forgot about that. There's more possible blocked air flow.
Have you actually verified you are really running hot? Have you put an IR temp gun on it?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Well hopefully your fan is not spinning backwards!
Jim, you are assuming your factory gauge is accurate. That is not a safe assumption. You may or may not actually have a problem, and you can't know for sure until you determine what your actual running temperature is.
JMHO
JMHO
Another thing to double check. . . .
Checked that!
Too late to try anything 'til the temps come back up, but I'd toss a 5-blade fan on, or put a 7-blade with a thermostatic clutch on. Cruising at 80 a 7-blade turning 3,200rpm could actually be hindering flow some, could explain the bugs hitting the wall of radial airflow w/o passing through...but the condensor could be a real issue also.
I know You are thorough, and it's new, or looks like it. If the fins are nice & combed straight, it shouldn't be an issue, but if the system is just enough to get it done w/o it.....
I love Your car & how it looks, You may have to add seals to be sure all of the air through the grill goes to those exchangers tho', and a modest chin spoiler at the rad. support will add air pressure & volume in frt. while creating a low pressure area under the engine compartment to extract it.
I did that to My ex Popo Dippy, because 4.89 gears & 4,000rpm@65mph w/a 4 gear was puttin' a hurtin' on the rad. I had in there.!!
Good luck & keep Us updated!!
Yes, hours combing the condenser.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Already mentioned this to him post #37, along with some others. Sometimes I wonder why I even try on this site.
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.
I mentioned that in post #4 and there was no definitive answer and again in post #16. Looking at a gauge with no numbers is like telling me your oil pressure is low while staring at the oil pressure light that isn't lit. I'm out.
Right! Even though I don't have a marked graduated gauge on Vixen, I have her factory C___H gauge and I verified it with my IR temp gun. Cool as a cucumber just like the gauge displays. You gotta have SOME accurate point of reference.
Geeze guys I will get to it when I have time. I spent some time today testing the gauge against a thermometer before I had meet someone who I was going to look at a Signet Convertible. This is not a super high priority right now. The gauge is close. At 180 the needle is about 1/3 into the normal range. Talking to my buddy his 66 Plymouth is almost exactly the same and when it is kissing the upper line line of the normal range it is at 220 (he mapped it out). So it was probably running in the 210 range at the red light within a couple minutes of stop and go after getting off the freeway. This is with the AC off and at a chilly 95F ambient.
Hey, you're askin for help and we're tryin to give it.
Yes but it will likely take several days for me to get time to checking things. This a background problem right now.
If you have 45+ degrees of timing at cruising speed, then timing is not your problem.
When I bought an Edel Victor SBC water pump [ 20 yrs ago now ], I paid $US190 for it. I could have bought a Chinese pump for $50....
What did I get for the extra $140? Clearances! Nice, tight clearances! If there is a gap between the imp blades & the casting, then you are giving the coolant an escape route...it does not get pumped into the engine...which is what is needed.
The pump also needs to be overdriven [ smaller pulley ] 10-20%.
More info here: www.stewartcomponents.com
When I bought an Edel Victor SBC water pump [ 20 yrs ago now ], I paid $US190 for it. I could have bought a Chinese pump for $50....
What did I get for the extra $140? Clearances! Nice, tight clearances! If there is a gap between the imp blades & the casting, then you are giving the coolant an escape route...it does not get pumped into the engine...which is what is needed.
The pump also needs to be overdriven [ smaller pulley ] 10-20%.
More info here: www.stewartcomponents.com
Yes exactly. I had a local guy rebuild the pump and pressed the impeller on correctly. I will look at the pulleys the stock one for AC is already quiet small. It does have a Stewart high flow 180 thermostat in it.
The chin spoiler may not work well without cutting up a lot of stock sheet metal. I have never seen such a complex front end on a Mopar before. The entire front is boxed with a lot of complex pieces of sheet metal. If you drop something in front of the condenser/radiator it is gone for ever. I will end up on all that sheet metal and be there till you tear the front end apart (you have to take the radiator out to get some of the bolts even). There is zero air flow possible from under the bumper up to the radiator because of all this.
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