67-9 cuda door repair questions

-
Thanks! Good info. So I could technically "leave" the trim that's on the blue door.
That just reminded me.....mirror location...I'll have to check.
I'll chk parts books to compare belt line #'s to see if they changed thru the years.
Thanks again guys, much appreciated!
For 1969, belt molding standard with fastback and optional with hardtop (notchback) and convertible. BUT standard/included with vinyl top on hardtop

from Hamtramck Historical 1969 Barracuda:

View attachment 1715678725
 
The cuda whisperer now that's funny. I plan on doing it. I have 2 good solid 67 RH doors and one car is a 69.
 
Last edited:
Heres the game plan, I have a 68-72 vent window assembly, I also have a 69-72 latch assembly. If it's a coupe without wide window lower opening trim, then weld up the trim holes. I also have the top inside sheetmetal of a 69 barracuda door including the linkage, and section of the door where the linkage mounts, and its cut below the upper door card stainless trim. If you trim it right, you can hide most of the seam under weatherstrip and the door card. Heres where the actual door modding comes in.
  1. Weld up the vent flap on bottom of the door
  2. Weld up the vent flap on the front of the door
  3. Remove 67 upper inside of the door
  4. Weld on the 69 upper inside of the door
A 69-72 dart 2 door inside door top sheetmetal is the same in this area and can be used for the door mod.
 
Sounds similar to what I have planned Matt. My 69 vert door(white) is complete(less door latch, one on the way tho). One difference with the 69 vert is the wider inside cat whisker. I would assume that they mount the same as on 67 door? I havent removed either pieces yet. Last thing I need is more shrapnel laying all over the place lol.
For your #3&4 points above, I'm not sure where you mean to cut/weld upper inside of door? I'll post more pics in a bit.
Heres the game plan, I have a 68-72 vent window assembly, I also have a 69-72 latch assembly. If it's a coupe without wide window lower opening trim, then weld up the trim holes. I also have the top inside sheetmetal of a 69 barracuda door including the linkage, and section of the door where the linkage mounts, and its cut below the upper door card stainless trim. If you trim it right, you can hide most of the seam under weatherstrip and the door card. Heres where the actual door modding comes in.
  1. Weld up the vent flap on bottom of the door
  2. Weld up the vent flap on the front of the door
  3. Remove 67 upper inside of the door
  4. Weld on the 69 upper inside of the door
A 69-72 dart 2 door inside door top sheetmetal is the same in this area and can be used for the door mod.

20210305_095838.jpg


20210305_095845.jpg
 
I'm thinking of doing mods like Matt said. Except I plan on using the entire 67 shell and replacing the 67 guts with 69 vert guts and adding all 69 vert doodads to 67 shell. Another couple noted differences. 1. See pics Mirror mount locations are different? Not sure if the 69 location is from prev owner or not? I know the 67 door is factory location. I havent sanded the 69 door down to verify, but will eventually. Both doors non remote mirror.
2. See pics "Bellcrank " location is shaped different due to lock pull locations? I dont think it will be an issue as the door card will cover it.
One thing I was surprised is the hole for vent window adjustment, both have plugs, I thought that was 67 only?

20210305_111657.jpg


20210305_111715.jpg


20210305_111148.jpg


20210305_111122.jpg


20210305_110950.jpg


20210305_111031.jpg
 
Complete door shown is a 1967 door. The upper attach point at the division post is different on the 67. It also has the countersunk hole and chrome screw. 68-72 did away with that. I have a 68-72 vent window. In 1969 to72 they moved the lock knob forward. Heres pic of 67 door, and both sides of a 69 door upper inner structure. Most of the stamping for both is the same. The exceptions are the division post mounting bracket, hole for division post screw. lock knob hole location, lock knob bracket for the linkages inside, and the change in the stamping to locate the linkages. My intent is to use clecos to line up the trim screw holes, then cut through both pieces below them, this way I have a good weld joint. Then use buttweld clamps to keep the spacing correct.

An alternate would be to move the lock button hole, and weld up the old one. Cut and position the small section that works the linkage. Swap out the bracket that holds the 67 division post with the later one. Drill new hole for 68 up division post. Fill in the 67 only division post screw hole.

Both ways have their pluses and minuses. Pics with red line drawn on them would be the extreme method I was looking at originally. I may just do hole cut and move brackets around method.

20210305_104842.jpg


20210305_105047.jpg


20210305_105147.jpg


Screenshot_20210305-112305_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20210305-112342_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
I wonder if my blue 67 door is a late build? Has plastic plug and rear most door lock. Weird? Makes 1 less thing for me to convert over tho! Your 69 upper piece is identical to my 69 door Matt. My welding skills ain't that good lol.

Complete door shown is a 1967 door. The upper attach point at the division post is different on the 67. It also has the countersunk hole and chrome screw. 68-72 did away with that. I have a 68-72 vent window. In 1969 to72 they moved the lock knob forward. Heres pic of 67 door, and both sides of a 69 door upper inner structure. Most of the stamping for both is the same. The exceptions are the division post mounting bracket, hole for division post screw. lock knob hole location, lock knob bracket for the linkages inside, and the change in the stamping to locate the linkages. My intent is to use clecos to line up the trim screw holes, then cut through both pieces below them, this way I have a good weld joint. Then use buttweld clamps to keep the spacing correct.

An alternate would be to move the lock button hole, and weld up the old one. Cut and position the small section that works the linkage. Swap out the bracket that holds the 67 division post with the later one. Drill new hole for 68 up division post. Fill in the 67 only division post screw hole.

Both ways have their pluses and minuses. Pics with red line drawn on them would be the extreme method I was looking at originally. I may just do hole cut and move brackets around method.

View attachment 1715702083

View attachment 1715702084

View attachment 1715702085

View attachment 1715702086

View attachment 1715702087

20210305_123924.jpg
 
Could be or it's a 68 door that was swapped in early in the cars life. That makes your job of modifying it much easier.
 
The passenger door in my 67 the division post was pried against and mangled I think in an attempt to break into the car sometime in its past life. The 67 door thats on my sons 69, this is all in good shape. I will take his door to use for my 67, then take my 67s door and modify it to a 69 since I have to pull it all apart to change the division post anyways. Both doors are otherwise solid and straight
 
Got a latch for a 70 duster drivers side I bought from @glenn340 to replace mine that went AWOL for the 69 cuda. There is a couple differences but I think its gonna work:thumbsup:! Thanks Glenn. I think the plan is to retro fit the 67 door for the 69. I need to weld or peen a ball stud to connect the thicker handle linkage that runs perpendicular as a permanent fix. For the time being I mounted latch in hacked up 69 door. I used a machine screw in place.of ball stud for the time being. The one part i didnt connect was the key lock to latch that runs vertical in the door. I'll get that figured out over the next few days. Threw a door handle on from the 67 door. So far so good. 1st 3 pics are comparing my 69 on right, vs 70 duster on left.
May check if I have a thread on ball stud in tickle trunk of carb stuff. Door handle seems to work ok. Ill give the latch a good dunking in evaporust for the next few days. Worked great for 69 ps latch.

20210305_173259.jpg


20210305_173641.jpg


20210305_173656.jpg


20210305_204254.jpg


20210305_203328.jpg


20210305_203345.jpg


20210305_203359.jpg


20210305_203509.jpg


20210305_204406.jpg


20210305_204421.jpg
 
Looks great. What's the 70 use as a clip instead of the ball stud? May be able to use a 70 linkage.
 
Steve, another option is to tack weld that ball stud drilled off the other latch onto the 1970 latch. Theres always a way to mod this stuff. If that's a 70 latch. I bet all 69 2 door A bodies have the ball stud mount for the door handle linkage.
 
Thanks Matt, not sure what the 70 uses, it may have used the ball stud and was removed for some reason? Glenn included 2 loose ballstuds. 1 alum and 1 steel. Alum fits perfect, but no tig lol.
I'll check my carb stuff, if nothing then hardware store.
I would like to get the 67 door mounted back on the cuda now that I've figured out which one I'm using. BUT may as well prep/paint the inside of it while I'm here. I can do the welding/mods later. I was thinking of painting the inside white? Make working on the internals later on easier?
Looks great. What's the 70 use as a clip instead of the ball stud? May be able to use a 70 linkage.
 
Yeah, I was thinking same thing welding ball stud. Dont want to remove one from other latches as they are in great shape and complete. I'll do some digging.
Steve, another option is to tack weld that ball stud drilled off the other latch onto the 1970 latch. Theres always a way to mod this stuff. If that's a 70 latch. I bet all 69 2 door A bodies have the ball stud mount for the door handle linkage.
 
Check early 70s ram vans and pickups if theres still some in your junkyard too. I bet chrysler used the same ball and clip arrangement on everything back then. I'd take the steel one you have with the smaller pin, center it in the hole, then zap, zap, zap done
 
Ok so mocked up latch from 70 duster and other rods etc from 69 door. Still needs some tweaking but I think I can get it to work. Also checked the one ballstud and zapped with welder. In there sturdy. They were mocked in the 69 door. Due to limited space I would like to get 67 door installed back on the car(mods to be done later)Limited space and these loaded doors are awkward to be constantly moving them lol. I also want to get remove the 67 guts and then "protect" the inside of the 67 door shell. Any recommendations? I was thinking white rustoleum, just to make it easier to see inside when doing final adjustments. Suggestions ??
Thanks
Steve.
 
Ok so got 67 door stripped down, welded up 67 door hole and drilled for 69.
I'll finish grinding the weld up later. Not the greatest but I can work on that later.
Now I'm stripping the 69 door and cant get the blue "plastic rivet" that holds the lift bracket to the door glass. I can get the inner piece to turn but not easily. Is the center piece supposed to be driven out towards door skin a bit?
Thanks
Steve

20210309_193227.jpg


20210309_195239.jpg


20210310_142518.jpg


20210311_130000.jpg


20210310_221348.jpg


20210311_094512.jpg
 
Well, got it all apart, what a wrestling match! "Lucky" enough to be able to leave lift bracket attached and rear lift stop You can see where the factory mirror mount was "welded" up.
Compressor went for a **** too, so perfect timing.:BangHead: Pump has oil leak and now motor is going...
Anyway shitty 69 vert door is stripped of everything. I was able to get the inside window fuzzies off of both of them. Without wrecking them. Outside ones are toast. There is a difference between the 2 inside ones, 69 vert vs 67 fastback. I never knew there was a difference until @RPM440+6 pointed it out or me. I can take measurements if need be??
Mocked up lock pull knob with "new" 69 hole location and 70 duster door latch. Took measurements for slot I gotta cut in door. Its hidden behind door panel. Marked out with painters tape.
Removed vert wedge off leading edge. Ran outta time got a grandson for a visit.

20210311_181859.jpg


20210311_163053.jpg


20210311_170523.jpg


20210311_181905.jpg


20210311_181926.jpg


20210311_141409.jpg


20210311_141417.jpg


20210311_141447.jpg


20210311_175826.jpg
 
Got notch drilled out for adjustment on lock rod knob. Not perfect. I may smooth out with dremel. Works tho. Hope to weld and paint the next few days. Gotta tap the door hinge holes too.

20210311_212624.jpg


20210311_213617.jpg


20210311_214150.jpg
 
Dragged in this rotted but somewhat complete 67 nb door as a cadaver to practice on. Has same hole obviously that I plan on welding up on good 67 door(now 69). Cut out pretty much the entire length too make a template or 2 out of.

20210313_155757.jpg


20210313_155829.jpg


20210313_160004.jpg


20210313_165423.jpg
 
Made a cardboard template then traced onto chunk I cut out. Just laid in there. Not sure if i need a slightly bigger gap?

20210313_195903.jpg


20210313_193701.jpg
 
Not much progress other than sitting thru my extra door stuff and making sure I pick the nicest hardware and giving them evaporust treatment. I noticed a difference between 69 vert and 67 FB rear support/slide for door glass. This part was already removed and laying in the bottom of 69 door. Appears to be a "stop" for the window that is unique to 69. Regulators are the same, fb vs vert, which is good I have a few extras to pick from. I also picked up a set of buttweld clamps(amongst other stuff) to help with my welding.

20210316_122534.jpg


20210317_134436.jpg


20210317_133635.jpg


20210317_134453.jpg


20210317_134515.jpg
 
Vent window "stuck" so a little heat and LOTS of PB Blaster. Didnt want to melt the rubber. Then got out the left handed drill bits, with success. Pretty dang straight for hand drilling and glasses lol.
Windownpivot at top of glass is still stuck. Hopefully the PB Blaster works on it. Looks riveted on but dont want to go that far....hopefully.

20210318_130539.jpg


20210318_130659.jpg



20210318_130807.jpg


20210318_130637.jpg
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top