moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I think the only thing mopar did differently on the performance K frames was fully weld the tubes in that hold the LCA pins, then tack weld a washer to the k frame to denote it as such to assembly line people.
67 Barracuda Big Block K frame keep it or change it ??
- Thread starter 383FormulaS67
- Start date
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I figured they were the same part except for the mounts. If he is trying to keep it somewhat stock as he originally mentioned because it is a 383S car. He mentioned just wanting the borgeson box and mentioned his dented K frame before seeing the QA1 K. I'd recommend to just make a 67 Slanty K into a big block one, this way it kinda keeps its pedigree or a 68-72 one into a big block one for the better idler arm mount.
That's a 340 K member thing. Based on everything I've seen here, it was primarily done on 70+ 340 K frames. Only a few K frames with washers and reinforcements have shown up pre-'70. And the big block K's I've seen haven't had them. Which make sense, because if they didn't do it pre-'70 they didn't do it for the factory big block K's
The 340 ID washer
And the LCA pivot tube reinforcements. They were not fully welded on both sides, just this reinforcement was added
Best thread here on the 340 K's 340 K Member ??
Yeah it would be way easier just to use a stud welder and a slide hammer to pull the bottom of the K frame out.
Or, add the optional skid plate. It covers the dented area and keeps everything from caving in when you use the K as a jack point.
Firm Feel sells their whole K frame reinforcing kit, which includes a skid plate.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering
Or buy a reproduction one. They're correct for B/E bodies but they fit A body K's as well...
Mopar Reproduction Skid Plate for B/E Bodies
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383FormulaS67
Bob
Thanks 72blu, I was Hell bent on the QA1, and yep my K frame is bent bad. QA1 has good pricing and I liked it for the benefit of bolt on, no fab, access to headers, & starter plus use their suspension upgrade too. I want the Barracuda to handle safer than new. Keeping the 323 gears in it and planning on freeway driving, a lot.
383FormulaS67
Bob
Yes I know what you mean, I have to put back what Joe Dirt did to this car...Gonna buy AMD and use them as patch parts, can't find good parts car near by. I read a lot about AMD good and bad.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Nothing but good about AMD, parts fit like a glove. I'd replace whole inner fenderwells both sides nothing worse than non stock seams from patching. Better job if you replace entire panel. I have to do drivers side on my sons car rotted by battery.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Ricky racer in the 1980s did this to my kids car instead of trimming stock inners, moving them in and strapping them and keeping it looking stock. I have to reskin whole *** end now. I call it UnFucking anytime you have to undo screwed up ****. Hell the filler tube doesnt even line up or fit.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Those dents in post #1 look like they actually make the K stiffer.
I have a BB 68 K-member I might sell but shipping to Ohio would really hurt.
I have a BB 68 K-member I might sell but shipping to Ohio would really hurt.
Rob Eppler
My Dart Charger...home made!
This is my 67. I've owned this since 1978! I have modified this vehicle some. However nothing that can't be un-done by another person. Axle is a Dana, [4.10] Engine is a 440 + .030 [383 is put away] The interior sports Viper bucket seats.[no extra holes in the floor...aluminum adapters to pick up the original floor seat holes]. 727 in place...the original trans was gone when I purchased the car. Big bolt pattern for ease of rim selection...a common upgrade... 3" aluminum drive shaft, 3" stainless steel exhaust, connected to Herb McCandless chassis headers. There are more engine mods...but I'll save that for those who ask. This car is street driven but has made some drag strip passes...It is a consistent 10 second performer on ET street radials and full exhaust. A best of 10.58 @ 124 but more consistent 10.70's @ 124. Always a pleasure reading these discussion forums!
loganscuda
This/These
Yeh, you made a mess of that......
383FormulaS67
Bob
Wow, people need to held accountable for this..
383FormulaS67
Bob
Stock K frame in it still ?
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
That was missing when I got the car I eventually got another one that's a V8 68 to 72
Rob Eppler
My Dart Charger...home made!
Yes my '67 does have the original K member in. I have purchased a '68 K member in favor of the Idler arm mounting difference. It is now blasted and powder coated. All the simple mods made in respect to original sheet metal! No additional holes. Fuel supply comes from the filler neck hole, down to the electric pump/filter system.
Rob Eppler
My Dart Charger...home made!
The car appears to twist some, so Dragstrip use is limited. Once I saw this pix, I stopped using this car for "pleasure like this"
kowalski440
Well-Known Member
I wonder if there's a small market for a repro 68-72 idler arm mount that could be used to convert the 67's (any others apply?)? Looks like it would be simple enough to fabricate.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i guess it was just a cheap old car when it was hacked up, it's just now as so many were scrapped over time the remaining cars have gone up in value. at least it's still here to be saved/repaired correctly.
neil.
383FormulaS67
Bob
Mat, is the 68 and up Idler arm mount the same for small block and big block? I'd like to find one and add it to my 67. I assume you make a jig for position, before you remove the old one.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
The 68 up idler arm mount should be the same for all 6 or V8. Is your 383 centerlink the same part number as a smallblock and slant six? That would be the big clue. Its an animal i am not familiar with since i have never actually seen a big block 67 up A body in person or taken meadurements off one. Its a white buffalo to me.
The one i am modding i do not have a jig for yet. I procured the RH mount and idler arm mount off a really rotted 69 V8 K frame on a 69 barracuda another fabo member was junking.
I have another K frame i plan on making a jig off of. The 68 idler arm mount i believe is the same all the way to 76. Looks the same as the one on my 74 K frame i have, however these are all small block cars.
I planned on having the jig attach to the 3 steering box mount holes then run across to the idler arm mount. The side of the jig where the idler arm mount will be fitted will be a steel tube with a slightly larger inside diameter as the idler arm bolt. The holes for the steering box and idler arm mount will be exact fit.
Basically bolt the idler arm mount to the jig with an idler arm bolt and nut, bolt the jig to the steering box mounting pad with the steering box bolts holding it in place on the K frame. Then weld it in.
If the idler arm mount is the same from 6 up to big block and in the same location. As i stated earlier my 74s K frame idler arm mount looks identical to the one i got from a 69 K frame. You.could probably grab one off a 73-76 slant 6 K frame. Nobody wants those.
Chrysler being the smallest of the big 3 had to outflank the other 2 because they couldent go head to head with them. Why i am saying this is simply that i believe all the basic A body K frames for that year were made the same off the same jigs and fixtures and only the engine mounting points were different based on engine type. Even 6 and small block shared the same LH mount in the frame
The one i am modding i do not have a jig for yet. I procured the RH mount and idler arm mount off a really rotted 69 V8 K frame on a 69 barracuda another fabo member was junking.
I have another K frame i plan on making a jig off of. The 68 idler arm mount i believe is the same all the way to 76. Looks the same as the one on my 74 K frame i have, however these are all small block cars.
I planned on having the jig attach to the 3 steering box mount holes then run across to the idler arm mount. The side of the jig where the idler arm mount will be fitted will be a steel tube with a slightly larger inside diameter as the idler arm bolt. The holes for the steering box and idler arm mount will be exact fit.
Basically bolt the idler arm mount to the jig with an idler arm bolt and nut, bolt the jig to the steering box mounting pad with the steering box bolts holding it in place on the K frame. Then weld it in.
If the idler arm mount is the same from 6 up to big block and in the same location. As i stated earlier my 74s K frame idler arm mount looks identical to the one i got from a 69 K frame. You.could probably grab one off a 73-76 slant 6 K frame. Nobody wants those.
Chrysler being the smallest of the big 3 had to outflank the other 2 because they couldent go head to head with them. Why i am saying this is simply that i believe all the basic A body K frames for that year were made the same off the same jigs and fixtures and only the engine mounting points were different based on engine type. Even 6 and small block shared the same LH mount in the frame
383FormulaS67
Bob
Thanks,
Looks like I better start hitting the swap meets, and craigslist looking for K frames. I found a Mopar B body big block k-frame, but assume it will not work for me ???
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Different animal altogether. Need A body one. I recomnend making a jig off the donor K frame before pulling the idler arm mount from it to swap into yours if thats your intention.
That was a Chevy guy did all that, I guarontee. Pop rivets and dzus fasteners are their two favorite ways to build stuff. I've seen almost everything held on by um. Stupidness.
Did anything need to be done? Weren't the stock K members pretty strong, slant six or otherwise? I'm not arguing, just asking. I haven't seen a slew of K member failures down through history because they had a big block on um. ..........unless I've just missed it. Which is certainly possible.
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