67 cuda FB progress UPDATE

Metallic GunMetal Grey with Gloss black stripes or Flat black stripes?


  • Total voters
    159
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Impressive! You've put in a ton of work and it shows in every inch of this beautiful Car. Keep going great thred.
 
Are you going to install rear speakers then? - And if you do are you going to chop holes in the side panels? I hated cutting holes in mine but was fine with it when it was done.
 
Are you going to install rear speakers then? - And if you do are you going to chop holes in the side panels? I hated cutting holes in mine but was fine with it when it was done.

I'm NOT cutting holes into them, I am installing hidden speakers behind the panels. I might make kick panels out of fiberglass and mold speaker inserts in those though. They will probably be more of a huden type speaker as well. I can't imagine wanting to listen to anything else other than the engine though. Unless my wife and I do go on an extended road trip, then music would be a must.
 
I'm NOT cutting holes into them, I am installing hidden speakers behind the panels. I might make kick panels out of fiberglass and mold speaker inserts in those though. They will probably be more of a huden type speaker as well. I can't imagine wanting to listen to anything else other than the engine though. Unless my wife and I do go on an extended road trip, then music would be a must.

I fully understand not wanting to cut holes in those panels. I felt as though I was vandalizing my own car when I was cutting into mine.
 
I fully understand not wanting to cut holes in those panels. I felt as though I was vandalizing my own car when I was cutting into mine.

I'm planing on recovering them with a thin foam pad then black leather. Holes would take away from the leather look I think.
 
No work on the 67 for me today. I had to do a brake job on one of the Dakotas.
After disassembling the drivers side I noticed the rubber brake line had a large bubble on the top end, at the frame rail. The dam thing almost burst!!!
Thank god I decided this was the weekend to do it. This is my work truck and I drive it each day anywhere from 200 to 300 miles every day with a LOT of weight in the bed under the canopy. All pesticides and a 50 gallon tank and pump sprayer. That could have been a bad day at the office. Anyways, it's all better now but the day is completely shot.
I did spend money on the 67 today though. I purchased parts and pieces for making up my headers.
 
I purchased parts and pieces for making up my headers.

Where did you get parts from? Good, thick flanges I hope???? What size tubes did you use? I build headers for Vipers and all my own stuff, too. Build headers for the 3rd gen Hemi cars too. (300, magnum, charger)
 
Where did you get parts from? Good, thick flanges I hope???? What size tubes did you use? I build headers for Vipers and all my own stuff, too. Build headers for the 3rd gen Hemi cars too. (300, magnum, charger)

an old friend of mine has a dealer business for steel, stainless. He is having the flanges etc. made up and I'll take over from there. From what he told me, the flange material is 3/8's material and the pipe material is 14 gauge. If all ends up to be a ball of molten crap when done then atleast I can say I tried to do it myself. Then I'll have him build them. He offered to but I like trying new things and that's why I'm building this car. The challenge is addicting.
Wish me luck, I'll need it.
 
an old friend of mine has a dealer business for steel, stainless. He is having the flanges etc. made up and I'll take over from there. From what he told me, the flange material is 3/8's material and the pipe material is 14 gauge. If all ends up to be a ball of molten crap when done then atleast I can say I tried to do it myself. Then I'll have him build them. He offered to but I like trying new things and that's why I'm building this car. The challenge is addicting.
Wish me luck, I'll need it.

I'll be pissed if you don't show pics of the header build. :poke:
 
If it gets to ugly you won't.

Seriously, I have a lot of confidence in how it'll turn out. But if all does not go well... - Some of the best threads I've read include the bad with the good. I like the fact that win or lose you're going to give the header build a shot. It seems like a daunting task to me.

I've watched a custom set being fabbed for one of my friend's '65 Coronet drag car but the builder had his own tubing bender. Whenever something didn't fit right he'd swear a lot and throw the tube across his shop. You didn't want to be in the way. Eventually he had each tube formed and didn't have to seam it anywhere. The only welds were to the flange and collector.

Mig or Tig?
 
I would think it'd be a real pain to have to piece together several short sections to make each primary tube. In my head I picture a lot of areas where it'd be nearly impossible to weld. I sure don't mean to discourage you but it sounds like a project above my pay grade. I am definitely anxious to see how you do.
 
Building headers is fairly easy. Make all your cuts on the axis of the u bend. Each individual primary tube will be built in pieces. Bolt your head flange to the engine and find where you want your collector to go. Make a jig to hold the collector where you want it and route your tube to it.
Keep in mind, the rest of the tubes have to go somewhere and the general length of each tube. Just tack the pieces together, 1 or 2 tacks, as you go in case you have to take them apart to reposition. I shove a tape measure down the tube to try and get as close a reading as the other for equal length. If it needs to be longer, put another bend in it. Doesn't do any good to have one tube 1&1/2' longer than another one.
When you envision the layout, you can tell which tubes kinda have to go where. The farthest tube from the collector should have the most direct path, etc. Example: Looking from front of car, the front tube should end up in the upper right corner of the collector of the pass side collector. This is the shortest distance for the longest tube. The second tube should be in the outer top position. It will have to wrap under or over the first tube which will roughly make it the same length as the first one. Because it had to bend over/under the first tube, it got longer with the bend in it. The third tube ends up in the lower outer postion, etc.
If you want to get totally equal length, it can get pretty involved in the routing. Close is good enough for a street car.
Don't worry if it looks like a pile of spaghetti, most good sets look this way.
After you get each individual pipe tacked together, and it looks like you have sufficient clearance everywhere, unbolt the flange and see if you can remove assy all tacked together. If you cant, see where the problem is and try to avoid that. (Sometimes it is not possible because of build requirements.)
After removing assy, cut the tacks loose on the flange and collector so you have each pipe separate. Weld up the seams on each pipe. When that is done, put the flange back on head and position all the pipes back in their respective spots with the collector in position. Tack the pipes to the head flange first. Then I take a large hose clamp and put around the tubes at the collector. Then remove collector. Weld the four tubes in the center to hold them together.
Remove assy again. weld inside the flange openings without getting weld on the gasket face of the flange. (The tube will have to be centered in the flange opening.)
Weld about an inch up between two collector tubes from the end of tubes towards the front. (You should do this between every connecting tube.) Weld the ends of the mating tubes together so you don't have any exhaust leaks after collector is welded on.
When this is all done, position collector where it has to go and weld all the way around it.
If you have done it properly, it shouldn't leak. :D

I need to do this with pictures and get paid for it. lol
 
Building headers is fairly easy. Make all your cuts on the axis of the u bend. Each individual primary tube will be built in pieces. Bolt your head flange to the engine and find where you want your collector to go. Make a jig to hold the collector where you want it and route your tube to it.
Keep in mind, the rest of the tubes have to go somewhere and the general length of each tube. Just tack the pieces together, 1 or 2 tacks, as you go in case you have to take them apart to reposition. I shove a tape measure down the tube to try and get as close a reading as the other for equal length. If it needs to be longer, put another bend in it. Doesn't do any good to have one tube 1&1/2' longer than another one.
When you envision the layout, you can tell which tubes kinda have to go where. The farthest tube from the collector should have the most direct path, etc. Example: Looking from front of car, the front tube should end up in the upper right corner of the collector of the pass side collector. This is the shortest distance for the longest tube. The second tube should be in the outer top position. It will have to wrap under or over the first tube which will roughly make it the same length as the first one. Because it had to bend over/under the first tube, it got longer with the bend in it. The third tube ends up in the lower outer postion, etc.
If you want to get totally equal length, it can get pretty involved in the routing. Close is good enough for a street car.
Don't worry if it looks like a pile of spaghetti, most good sets look this way.
After you get each individual pipe tacked together, and it looks like you have sufficient clearance everywhere, unbolt the flange and see if you can remove assy all tacked together. If you cant, see where the problem is and try to avoid that. (Sometimes it is not possible because of build requirements.)
After removing assy, cut the tacks loose on the flange and collector so you have each pipe separate. Weld up the seams on each pipe. When that is done, put the flange back on head and position all the pipes back in their respective spots with the collector in position. Tack the pipes to the head flange first. Then I take a large hose clamp and put around the tubes at the collector. Then remove collector. Weld the four tubes in the center to hold them together.
Remove assy again. weld inside the flange openings without getting weld on the gasket face of the flange. (The tube will have to be centered in the flange opening.)
Weld about an inch up between two collector tubes from the end of tubes towards the front. (You should do this between every connecting tube.) Weld the ends of the mating tubes together so you don't have any exhaust leaks after collector is welded on.
When this is all done, position collector where it has to go and weld all the way around it.
If you have done it properly, it shouldn't leak. :D

I need to do this with pictures and get paid for it. lol

Oh. - I didn't realize it was so simple. LOL. It sounds like it would be easier for me to give birth to kittens than build my own headers. I'd really love to see you guys post detailed pictures of these header builds. Maybe some day I will attempt to build a set but I keep picturing the tight clearances and gazillion bends in my head and it gives me the willies. I wouldn't be hesitant to tackle the rest of the exhaust system but there's a heck of a lot more room beneath the car. - My hat's off to you guys!
 
No guts, no glory. :D All that sounded a lot more complicated than it actually is... :glasses7:

I'm A bit intimidated!
Don't get me wrong, I love to try new things but I just realized something. My car is all put together and my bodywork is so flat (NOT BRAGGING) that if I look at it sideways it will scratch, or at least show a scratch. It sounds like in order to do this, I'm running the very real chance of scratching the heck out of the engine bay. Holy crap! I sure wished I had built them sooner!!!!!
I may need to re-think the whole thing now or pull the motor or find another A-body to do the mock up on. Or spend big money and purchase a custom set from Stan's headers here locally. They are about 80 miles from me.
I need to regroup my decisions a bit and get it figured out before I proceed.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::violent1::violent1::violent1:
 
I'm A bit intimidated!
Don't get me wrong, I love to try new things but I just realized something. My car is all put together and my bodywork is so flat (NOT BRAGGING) that if I look at it sideways it will scratch, or at least show a scratch. It sounds like in order to do this, I'm running the very real chance of scratching the heck out of the engine bay. Holy crap! I sure wished I had built them sooner!!!!!
I may need to re-think the whole thing now or pull the motor or find another A-body to do the mock up on. Or spend big money and purchase a custom set from Stan's headers here locally. They are about 80 miles from me.
I need to regroup my decisions a bit and get it figured out before I proceed.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::violent1::violent1::violent1:


Riff, small block mopar, not too bad for room. BUT, because yours is "done", might be farther ahead to buy some you don't have to take in and out a few times. You will be so worried about nicks and scratches that it would take you forever........ :protest:
 
I've heard of guys putting sheets of lightly adhesive vinyl over areas that they're trying to protect.
 
I've heard of guys putting sheets of lightly adhesive vinyl over areas that they're trying to protect.

The vinyl idea is interesting. Maybe a foil type material.
I'm worried about sparks from tack welding as well.

I had planed to Tig weld as I believe it's the ONLY way to go to be certain of a good weld but I'd mig the spot welds to be quicker.

I'm going to need to think it over a bit.
 
Riff, small block mopar, not too bad for room. BUT, because yours is "done", might be farther ahead to buy some you don't have to take in and out a few times. You will be so worried about nicks and scratches that it would take you forever........ :protest:

I know your right but at the same time I do get stubborn and don't always take the sane route. My head is spinning........
The easy route isn't always the most satisfying.
I think I'll drink about it. :drinkers:
I mean think about it. L.O.L!!!!!! :pottytra:
Or Dink about it. :dink:
 
Oh. - I didn't realize it was so simple. LOL. It sounds like it would be easier for me to give birth to kittens than build my own headers. I'd really love to see you guys post detailed pictures of these header builds. Maybe some day I will attempt to build a set but I keep picturing the tight clearances and gazillion bends in my head and it gives me the willies. I wouldn't be hesitant to tackle the rest of the exhaust system but there's a heck of a lot more room beneath the car. - My hat's off to you guys!

That's funny I needed a good laugh.
 
I'm hoping you'll give it a shot. It sounds like SNKEBIT has a ton of experience building them but it would be cool to hear a blow by blow accounting of what a newbie (to header construction) runs into. Sometimes it illustrates the potential pitfalls better than an account from someone that already knew from experience what to avoid.
 
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