67 Dart Headlight Switch and Connector Recommendations?

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4spd your in box is full. Pm me with price. You could post photos here, but the pc police might bust us.
 
.4 Ohms seems kindof high to me
Checked my 25+ year old harbor freight cen-tech p35017 meter, 0.4 ohms is dead short.

I also fixed the dome light switch contact.

It's the little wins in life!
 
Checked my 25+ year old harbor freight cen-tech p35017 meter, 0.4 ohms is dead short.

I also fixed the dome light switch contact.

It's the little wins in life!
Guess that makes my old cheapo Radio Shack Archer multi-meter look good. :lol:
Whenever its seems off, check zero and readjust the needle until it lines up. :)
The digital one is easier to read but can't do that!

What was wrong with the dome light switch? Just dirt or more involved?
 
What was wrong with the dome light switch? Just dirt or more involved
It had high resistance and intermitnant connectivity.

I got a pipe cleaner in the hole and just that made a great difference. Might have gone a bit Tim Taylor on it, but it is good for now.
 
Whenever its seems off, check zero and readjust the needle until it lines up. :)
The digital one is easier to read but can't do that
There is probably a pot inside I cod adjust. But 0.4 is good enough for what I use it for.
 
The black plastic harness connector for headlight switch is available new. Although aftermarket has it listed for Jeep applications, its the same part. About 6 bucks alone, about 30 bucks with wire leads.
Google Jeep CJ headlight switch connector.
 
Would the one with a ground pin make any difference over the one with out for the headlight switch?
 

There is one difference the one with the smaller resistor is smaller in size, and if on a 67 the pull knob won't fit with the locking nut. Just got the one with the bigger resistor and it won't work :(

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There is one difference the one from the smaller resistor is smaller in size, and if on a 67 the pull knob won't fit with the locking nut. Just got the one with the bigger resistor and it won't work :(

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The other thing to watch out for is the circuit breaker. A-bodies got a switch with a 15 amp circuit breaker. This is because the wires to the headlights are only 18 ga. Other cars/makes/models often used a switch with a 20 amp circuit breaker. It may fit but won't protect when you need it to. :(
67 Barracuda
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This one from '69 Dodge, Same deal but showing other models
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I rewired the car, will have to double check what amp that circut has. Will a stock replacement handle the 20amp? Might need to bypass the switch and just wire the running lights and dash lights to their own switches. Those are the only two circuits that didn't come on with the factory switch I have.
 
4spd your in box is full. Pm me with price. You could post photos here, but the pc police might bust us.
Yes, you are supposed to start a wanted thread if you are searching for used parts.
 
I rewired the car, will have to double check what amp that circut has. Will a stock replacement handle the 20amp? Might need to bypass the switch and just wire the running lights and dash lights to their own switches. Those are the only two circuits that didn't come on with the factory switch I have.
The protection (fuse, circuit breaker, etc) is sized on the weakest link in the circuit. In theory that's the 18 gage wires to the headlights. In reality its often the terminals and terminal crimps in the connectors. Especially when oxidized.

The original headlights drew less than most replacements. If you are running 6012 lamps, they'll draw less current in both hi and low. But very few folks still have or install 6102s. Mostly guys going to shows who want the most original parts.

A 20 amp circuit breaker will not hurt regular operation even with a typical replacement lamp, like 6014 or H6014. The problem with a 20 amp CB is if there is a short, it may not open before the wire or a connector melts.
 
I have led bulbs all over and even led headlights so I know my draw is alot lower then factory.
 
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