67 Dart Headlight Switch and Connector Recommendations?

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Dana67Dart

Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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Hi all,

I haven't completed my diagnoses but I suspect the headlight switch.

So my question... anyone have a recommendation for vendor / switch

OEM part number is 2809087

Classic Ind / OER MD9377 (OER Mopar Authorized)
1967 Dodge Dart Parts | MD9337 | 1962-81 Mopar Headlamp Switch; 8 Terminal w/1-1/4 Rheostat | Classic Industries

YearOne NG1020 (unknown)
1962-1976 A-body Headlight switch.

Oriley AutoParts DS165 (Standard Auto Parts)
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2372/1967/dodge/dart?q=headlight+switch&pos=0

AutoZone SW185 (Duralast)
https://www.autozone.com/electrical...ch/duralast-headlight-switch-sw185/764852_0_0


Various non NOS vendors

NOS Various vendor

Not looking for diagnosis help (yet!)

Thanks
 
A little concerned the ones listed as compatible with vans and full size cars have the 20 amp circuit breaker instead of 15.
 
I will be removing the switch before I buy anything. If it turns out to be switch anyone have personal preference on brand etc
 
I have a few used originals if interested.
These are still readily available over the counter, no need to go to "specialists"
We put a new one in 6-7 years ago in our 67. IIRC we used an 80's truck for lookup.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Remove switch and inspect. You will usually see melted plastic around the terminals
Click to expand...
Ding ding ding we have a winner....
MVIMG_20200408_184645.jpg


Interesting place to find rust

MVIMG_20200408_184710.jpg
 
Sure is. But there probably are enough nights in the past 50 years where everything was covered in dew, and hte windows were down or who knows.
On mine it was the B1 terminal that went first.
 
Switch cleaned up well. Got the rheostat to make good contact.

IMG_20200408_222948.jpg

Did some electrical testing, no more than 0.4 ohms on any contact.

I Pinned out the switch
15864067336615503463807577206534.jpg

With pull knob in:
B1 no continuity to any contact
B2 no continuity to any contact

With pull knob at first position:
B1 no continuity to any contact
B2 has continuity to P
B2 has continuity to R
B2 has continuity to I (thru rheostat)

With pull knob out:
B1 has continuity to H
B2 has continuity to R
B2 has continuity to I (thru rheostat)

Pull knob in all positions:
D had continuity to the pad behind B2 when the rheostat was fully counter clockwise but nothing else.

EDIT...
It makes a ground path to by pass the door switches to light the interior courtesy lights. Mine has a bad connection, 10s of ohms to the housing.

I assume it does something but not sure what. The rheostat pushes on a small metal tab that makes a contact.
15864073582403921460691724726242.jpg
15864073799006249500435568470708.jpg


Hopefully a doner harness I have has a good connector.
 
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It's common the windshield will drip right in that area and get your switch and fuse box wet or damp. I have had this issue a few times.(I've owned a lot of A-bodies)
I small amount around frame before installing gasket and a tiny bead where the glass sits in gasket eliminates this. I doesn't harden and cleans up with Final wash or prep solve .
3M™ Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound | 3M United States
 
Dana67Dart said:
D had continuity to the pad behind B2 when the rheostat was fully counter clockwise but nothing else.
I assume it does something but not sure what.
Click to expand...
Dome light.
Its one of the return side wires from the dome lamp.
Closing it will complete the path to ground.
Dana67Dart said:
Did some electrical testing, no more than 0.4 ohms on any contact.
Click to expand...
I can check my car's switch next I'm at the garage.
.4 Ohms seems kindof high to me. Check the meter first. Could be 0.1 - .2 ohms just touching the probes together.
B1 to H will see about 9.5 amps IIRC. That would be a 3.8 Volt drop and 36 Watts of power in the switch!
 
Dana knows about relays!
I put together my own, and I've seen Stern's kit and Yule's ready to run harness. I'd say both are really good quality and would recommend either one. Stern's may provide some more flexibility in terms of hiding the relays and the wiring to keep the engine bay looking stock.

One thing worth mentioning. The headlamps supplied in 1967, and up through around 1973, drew less current on high and low beams than the lamps that followed.
Those in turn were replaced by halogen lamps that drew less current on low beam, but more on high beam.
Point is a factory correct lamp doesn't put the load on the system as many of the replacements.

Headlamp Lamp Chronology and nominal power consumption.
6012; 40 Watt low, 50 watt high beam.
6014; 50 Watt low, 60 Watt high.
H6014 (Halogen); 55 Watt low , 60 Watt high.
H6024 (Halogen); 35 Watt low, and 60 Watt high. (except GE's nighthawk version)
 
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4spdragtop said:
IIRC we used an 80's truck for lookup.
Click to expand...

My understanding is this one not only fits and is identical but it keeps the driving lights on with the headlights.

I'm not even sure if I replaced mine with this switch.

Can anyone confirm?
 
matthon said:
My understanding is this one not only fits and is identical but it keeps the driving lights on with the headlights.

I'm not even sure if I replaced mine with this switch.

Can anyone confirm?
Click to expand...
You mean the parking lights?
Can't help on that. My 67 always has had the parking lights on with the headlights. I'd have to look if that's a Barracuda only feature in 1967.
 
Mattax said:
You mean the parking lights?
Can't help on that. My 67 always has had the parking lights on with the headlights. I'd have to look if that's a Barracuda only feature in 1967.
Click to expand...

The difference is Barracudas have L6 and L7 wired to R terminal.
Darts and Valiants have L6 wire to P terminal, which Dana's continuity test shows as disconnected with headlights on position.
 
Yep no front parking lights with headlights on.

Now I need a connector. So one selling for about 45 bucks new. Recomendation?

My doner harness connector is worse than mine.
 
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