67 dart stroker hellcat gen3 hemi with twin turbos...

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After market heads are how they are making higher boost. Otherwise o ring the block and heads. Even that isn't fool proof. The stock heads have limits before they lift. As the decks just wont support the cylinder pressures without distorting or lifting. The orings help a bit but only so much. Withthe new tytech heads they Re of better material and much thicker decks. They will with stand the power and pressure with ease. They also flow a ton of air and cost the similar as replacement stockers do.

Head gasket failures are tuning errors or head seal failure from weak casting.

I'm hoping I won't have to see 30psi but it is likely I will.
 
Any updates on the build? I see you've been ruffling a few feathers on the other forums...
 
Uhcoog1 said:
Any updates on the build? I see you've been ruffling a few feathers on the other forums...
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Yup im still able to type so i have been tormenting people with theories who claim them to be facts. got banned for it to. Such a ***** that baby is. Lmao

Waiting on abilitiy of being able to work on it. Still off work from shoulder surgeries. I rolled it out yesturday to clean the garage out. Pushing the broom put tears in my eyes from the pain. Pretty sad actually. I may have to pay somebody to finish it for me. So its been depressing as I had intentions to be driving it by now and back to work.
 
Sorry about the shoulder. GL with recovery.

Did I read you're changing directions? Going to a Gen 2 hemi? Sounds expensive. You get a disability settlement with that shoulder injury? Lol
 
Uhcoog1 said:
Sorry about the shoulder. GL with recovery.

Did I read you're changing directions? Going to a Gen 2 hemi? Sounds expensive. You get a disability settlement with that shoulder injury? Lol
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I may get one but ive lost a little over 100k being off work. So im finacially struck due to that.My savings I nearly drained now. Had saved to buy a house out right. Now I could put a decent deposit but I dont want a loan. So back to saving and struggling. Lol
Im up in the air about it really. I havr parts for either one. Leaning the newgen again. As long as I cant get to work and displace my brain ill constantly change ideas.lol
 
Sorry bout the tough time, man.

You'll get it figured out! I vote get it running with a cheap gen 3, then step up from there. You're only ~$2000 from a forged motor with the block and heads you have.
 
Uhcoog1 said:
Sorry bout the tough time, man.

You'll get it figured out! I vote get it running with a cheap gen 3, then step up from there. You're only ~$2000 from a forged motor with the block and heads you have.
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Cam is 500, lifters the same and valves and springs add up to over a grand. Ill get it done this summer I hope but only my economics needs to return or its over for anything at this point but roller skates. Lol
 
turbofreek said:
Cam is 500, lifters the same and valves and springs add up to over a grand. Ill get it done this summer I hope but only my economics needs to return or its over for anything at this point but roller skates. Lol
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I meant go the cheapest route possible to get it running under boost; not a full on x275 motor.
6.1 crank (free to $150)
K1 or Molnar rods ($525-$575)
Shelf pistons ($700) or custom ($1100) with pins and rings
$300 cam
Factory lifters, Good beehive springs, factory valves, factory rockers and retainers

Build it for 7,000 rpm shifts and 15 psi. That would be a good cheap test motor that easily runs 9's
 
I know what your saying but its money thrown away. I still need an intake, coils, etc... its not just those you mention.
 
Will do. Im hoping ill vet caught up and get it finished this summer. But tough to judge when ill be back working and making good bank. Best part is summer is my best time for income and ill be back in when it ramps up.
 
Running me some brake lines now. Got the underneath of the car coated besides the main pass floor pan area. Wont do that till all the floor bars are welded in. But making progress. Not fast progress but progress non the less.
have the master cylinder already to go just need to finalize the brake pedal travel and stop it from returning back to far. Otherwise the damn shaft to the mc falls out, wtf?? Should there be a spring on the pedal to stop this???
 
What master cylinder are you running? I still need to get by there and see your ride!
 
running the brake lines and debating on this setup as just hardline and no braided lines. Seems simpler anyways.
 
was debating bullborns on my car but that idea last just a few seconds at best. Lol. Thought id get some others opinions of it as well.
 


Floors did get coated a while back as did under the rear end. I had kirkey seats n it but going to a leather race seat that folds forward for backseat access.
 


Many have asked how usable is the back seat with the cage. Well I am 6'3" 300lbs size 14 shoe and you can see my feet resting on the old kirkey seat mounts. With the new seats ill have the pass redone for that seat alone to be open mounted for better foot room. If I can fit in the back here I will be satisfied for anybody else to ride along besides my kiddos. The remainder of the funny car cage and roof bars wont change the room available for this sest position.
 
Not from post 92 is as far as ive been. Got busy with work and wifes bday stuff and father in icu. Will get back at it in the next few days when time allows if not this evening. Still doing undercoating as well little by little. Need to do the trans tunnel and floor pan area.
 
Thanks man. I just finished cleaning up the trans tunnel of dirt and rubber. Will get the rest undercoated in a few days. Wife cant seem to leave me alone long enough to do anything. Otherwise it would be coated as well.
 
Haha, i know what ya mean on that, i may bot be married yet but my gf sure finds a way to slow me down
 
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