'67 Fry Fix

[matthon]

Meet Fry, our 67 Barracuda drive all the time anytime anywhere, when it's not raining or snowing when we leave.

Now that I finally settled on rims and tires, 15" sbp all around, no way am I going to let the front tires get worn out on the inside.
Bought offset bushings, then decided it's time to reassess and re-address the front suspension and steering.

So far, it's turning into a 'mine as well fix this too' deal, so be it.

I've done my share of research, but I do have questions that I'm hoping you guys can help with.

 

[matthon]

Pulled the entire front suspension and steering column.
My tools, Evaporust and Rust Encapsulator Plus, and some paint for top coat.
The $99 giant Evaporust was well worth it.
The smaller jug is years old, black in color, and still works the same.

 

[matthon]

Question, are these pistons ok to use?

2 have pitting, one scratches.

Calipers degreased, cleaned with soap, soaking in Evaporust now.

 

[matthon]

I didn't get a pic of the dust seals on the calipers, but the dust seals on the outer pistons were worn away on the bottom due to a ridge on the rotors, see pic.

I checked the set I took off the car a decade ago, same scenario.

Since my brakes are not that old, rotors and pads have plenty of life left, and new studs, I'm using them as-is.

Replacing seals and dust seals, and ground down the ridge.

 

[matthon]

Years ago, I bought a front suspension kit and had a local place install it.
No complaints on the kit, complete and good stuff, just don't recall the brand.

I think they skipped installing the LCA bushings. Explains a lot. Nice.

 

[matthon]

Anti-theft.
Just finished pulling the column.
With no pin in the joint, just remove the plastic column cover, 3 bolts into the firewall, 3 nuts holding the column, as well as the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the column, tach, unplug harness, pull.

Lower bearing is hurting.
What's the deal with the black paper?

 

[matthon]

Oh yeah, a few before pics.
Check those rusty spindles, and newer bushings, can't see the LCA bushings though.
That red-ish light was the sunlight that day, weird.

 

[matthon]

So, I have this plan that developed in the last few days, so you know it's good.

Suspension out, check, steering column out, check, want to fix engine mounts once and for all, definitely, will cover later, replacing steering box, yes, don't want to pull plugs and header to pull steering box, true.

Recently I replaced the trans, 3 times, used rags and blocks of wood with this ridiculous iron bar and a chain to support the rear of the engine.

Why not do the same but in the front, and pull the k-frame?

I would build small guides out of wood, and possibly run a few pieces down to the frame rails and/or to the ground.

I hear getting the steering box bolts can sometimes be a pain, plus I can clean, rust encapsulate, and paint it, and address the engine mounts.

Thoughts?

 

[440jimr]

Great write up so far...

 

[matthon]

Thank you Evaporust.
It does remove paint if rust is beneath. I took them out, scrubbed with a brush and soapy water. Then I dried and put in the oven on low with the door open. They dried too fast and too much flash rust.
Dipped them back in, rinsed off with extremely hot water and clean brush, fast enough to keep the parts cool.
Dried with small towel, minimal flash rust.

I know they recommend dipping and leaving it on until paint, but I want to paint asap. Letting air dry more, will paint within 24 hrs with high temp primer/paint or grill paint.

 

[matthon]

No one makes the spindle/backing plate gasket, so word is to use packing foam sheets, happened to have some.

Mine were destroyed so unable to make a template. Measured center with caliper and happened to have a roll of electrical tape with the needed diameter. Cut out one, template for the other, bolts up through to hold in place, call it done.

I had pitting on both surfaces, looked like all the original gasket did was hold moisture against the parts - but my understanding is it prevents a rattling noise and it took 10 minutes.

One could probably buy the later gaskets, just circle gaskets, and I imagine they would work fine.

Too much to do all around, so I'll spend small amounts of time, and before you know it, progress.

 

[matthon]

Unfortunately I had more time to disassemble the steering column. Came apart quite easily.

I think the shaft is spent where the lower bearing should be, if that's a thing, and it appears the collapsible shaft is extended, also, if that's a thing.

I did a bunch of research on rebuilding a 67, one year only, column, watched some videos, nothing covered or mentioned either above scenario.

Is it worth the time, effort, $, to find a good shaft and rebuild, or is there a direct bolt in aftermarket column?

Anyone?

And my steering wheel appears to be cracked, although I don't see it on the other side, it's definitely bigger than the scratch I thought it might be some time ago.

Looking for a cherry, black, 14" Superior 500 wheel.

 

[matthon]

I think my best bet is finding a lower shaft for a manual column.
Started a thread on this topic, also reached out to a member to see if he can help.

I have more info on a 67 column but it's on my pc, however I need that piece to continue.
67 Steering Column - Help

 

[matthon]

Looking for 1 KH caliper bolt, yup, long shot, check your cans of bolts.

I know a member reproduces however not the same as what I have, longer, and obviously I know I can just use a washer or a different bolt. Just throwing it out there.

My brackets have a raised groove, and the bolt has an inset groove under the head.

[WANTED] - 1 Kelsey Hayes Caliper Bolt

 

[S'cuder]

Why not do the same but in the front, and pull the k-frame?

Thoughts?

I have a couple of bars like that. The fellow who gave them to me said they were from use by railroad track maintenance crews. I've made similar supports out of 2x6s.

I like your plan. I need to do something similar because my auto trans leaks badly, and should be refreshed.

I plan to give the K-member a full gusseting while it's out, reinforcing LCA pivot mounts, steering gear mounts, and motor mounts. Maybe add a skid plate. I'd like to give it a hot tanking and powder coat, but it'll probably just get oven cleaner and spray bombing. I'll have to check with CudaChick first.

 

[matthon]

I plan to give the K-member a full gusseting while it's out, reinforcing LCA pivot mounts, steering gear mounts, and motor mounts.

How exactly is this done?
Maybe a thread on it already?

I set everything up today, unbolted the engine mounts, lifted the engine, removed the k-frame bolts.
I sprayed some wd-40 on the k-frame bolts and put them back in, hopefully will be able to drop the k-frame tomorrow.

Plan is to remove the steering box, degrease, apply a few coats of rust encapsulator, paint, and bolt it back in, but I would be open to reinforce depending on how much it's needed.

 

[S'cuder]

How exactly is this done?
Maybe a thread on it already?

I set everything up today, unbolted the engine mounts, lifted the engine, removed the k-frame bolts.
I sprayed some wd-40 on the k-frame bolts and put them back in, hopefully will be able to drop the k-frame tomorrow.

Plan is to remove the steering box, degrease, apply a few coats of rust encapsulator, paint, and bolt it back in, but I would be open to reinforce depending on how much it's needed.

There's a good bit of information right here on FABO.
k-member reinforcement
''I'm going to fix it up someday'' The resurrection of a '74 Dart Sport......
Here's Firm Feel's page with their kits and some pics. Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering
Kerndog did a thread on Moparts as Frankenduster called "Welded K member pictures." WELDED K member pictures

 

[matthon]

Thank you. I'll review all the info, although I'm not sure if I'll get to doing any modifications to the k-frame, winter setting in, trying to get it rolling again, the engine bolted back to the car, etc.

Got the k-frame out. It's not really possible to hit the bolts with a penetrating spray, so I loosened the bolts and sprayed up at them.

Scraped all the gunk off. Degreased, scrubbed it, worked ok. Hit it with some paint remover and that really did a number on everything. Hit a few spots with the map gas torch.

A bunch of leaves and crud came out of it, but clearly there is still gunk in it. Hit it with the map gas inside and smoked some stuff out.

It has dents on the bottom, but I don't have a slide hammer, if that's even the best way to 'fix' it. But I'm not too concerned, see above, plus pulling it to paint is an extra step I'm taking just because it's warm out for the next few days.

 

[matthon]

Engine crane lifted engine, but cannot stay as it sticks out the front of the garage.

Steel bar across the top, wooden supports screwed together, chain to top of engine with grade 8 bolts.

Wood supports screwed together up to both engine mounts. Jack supporting engine at oil pan, wood block and something to prevent scratches on top of jack.

Chain from bar is slightly loose, the bulk of the support comes from the wood braces on the bottom and the floor jack.
All 3 things held the engine up alone. If chain becomes tight, there's something up with the other 2.

Next, wire wheel the entire k-frame, a few coats of rust encapsulator, paint, bolt it back in.

I can always pull it again in the spring to put a new steering box in, and do any mods to the k-frame itself, I just want the engine supported with the frame over the winter.

 

[matthon]

Firmfeel actually lists k-frame kits for 63-66 and 68-72.
No mention of 67 or big block.

The welds on my k-frame don't look horrible, at least not as bad as some pics I've seen.

I'll do a closer look and address any issues, iirc there's an easy gusset fix to the idler arm mount.

I'd like to take a stab at the seams, and I like the one idea in those threads to box the ends of the k-frame to add strength as well as a tie down point in the front, but may be best to stick to the plan for now.

 

[matthon]

Here's a tip for cleaning the k-frame, and anything else.

The degreaser, paint remover, worked well, and the map gas did work very well to get into the seams.

The best tool for the day was hot water, hot soapy water, and a scrub brush.

Here's the tip part, I installed a hot water tap outside, a couple actually. May not be news to many, but I've had them for years and they always are extremely useful.

Whether straight from the hose, or hooked to a pressure washer, it's the bomb.

Nothing worse than trying to clean up grease and then hitting it with cold water that only returns it to a solid.

I have a tankless water heater too, so I can easily turn up the temp and spray away forever.

 

[S'cuder]

Firmfeel actually lists k-frame kits for 63-66 and 68-72.
No mention of 67 or big block.
View attachment 1715634734

Consider calling them and asking. They're very helpful on the phone.
They say they have '62-'76, but no pics of '67 big block.

 

[matthon]

Dent puller.

Threw the biggest washer possible and nut into the k-frame, threaded rod through the holes on the bottom, old sledge head.

Used it to pull the dents out of the bottom. Kinda worked, it's definitely not as bad, but couldn't get the middle and the edges well.
I used an old punch with a sledge through the top holes which helped.
Metal is stronger than I thought it would be.

No pic of after, just forgot, nothing to brag about anyway.

 

[matthon]

I called Firm Feel, not convinced the reinforcement kit is worth it, for many reasons.

Most important, in my thought process anyway, nothing addresses the front of the LCA tubes.

67 Big Block K-frame Reinforcement

 

[matthon]

Got it done today.

I thoroughly cleaned it over the last few days. Degrease, paint remover, which took grease off like crazy.
Then I turned up the tankless water heater to 160 and pressure washed it over and over.
It was fairly cold out, and when I was spraying the hot water on the inside, the water on the outside was evaporating off.
There isn't a place around me that can handle cleaning this, and I don't really care, it's darn clean, seams, inside, etc. Verified when I opened it up.

I recently bought a decent welder, got rid of the flux core, so it is the best I can do right now.

I used a skinny wire wheel on a drill to clean the rust away from where the sleeves meet the walls on both sides of the sleeve.
It worked ok. I then used a small file to clean that area more.

I put the LCA pins in before welding.
It was a little challenging to weld inside, but I'm pleased.
Based on the research I've done, my concerns, the feedback in the link above, I think it's the best improvement I could make.

The plan is to put it on a small tarp or plastic sheet, pour the rust converter into it, flip it around a few times, let it drain, brush it on the outside, hang it up to dry.

Then paint it, and bolt it back in.

I know Eastwood sells a spray version with a long tube, but I'm not sure it's long enough, I have plenty of the small cans of it, here, now. Plus it flows very well, not very thick, and should not be a problem.