'68 Barracuda Notch

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I made a quick drawing with a few features pointed out in case you are not familiar.

1) Check the float level. That affects every circuit in the carb. On each end of your carb you have a float bowl. On the top is the adjuster nut for the needle / seat height. On the passenger side of the carb are two sight glasses or removable brass plugs. If you have the plugs, you put some rags below them and remove them. If you have an electric pump it is easier because the engine does not need to be running. With the pump running, or engine if the car only has the cam driven pump, you put a box end wrench over the adjuster nut and slightly loosen the lock screw with a flat blade screwdriver. If the fuel is running out of the sight hole, turn the nut until it just barely stops. If you have the sight glass style you want the fuel to just barely be visible at the bottom. Once you have the height adjusted you tighten the locking screw. Do this for the front and rear float bowls. Put the sight plugs back in when you are done. Be careful that you do not get too much fuel collecting in the rags or on the manifold, it is easy to start a fire if you are not careful. The sight glass style may take longer to adjust, you just have to be more patient. If the level is too high you have to wait for the car to use the fuel after each adjustment as you are lowering the level. With the sight plug style it is easier, it just drains out the side if it is too high.

2) Once the floats are set, then adjust the idle mixture. With the car off, gently turn the idle mixture screw clockwise until you feel it seat. Gentle... do not run it down tight. Count the number of full turns it takes to get there. My normal starting point is 2-1/2 full turns out on each side. Once it is seated, turn it out 2-1/2 turns on each side. Start the car. I get a tach feed so I can watch the rpm to do the next part. You can also get a helper to watch or, just listen to the engine. Turn the idle mixture screws slowly in / out on each side until you get the highest idle speed. Check each side independently. Turn the idle speed screw in out to drop or raise the idle occasionally as you go to maintain your target idle speed.

3) Check the accelerator pump. You can push the lever with your finger or blip the throttle. When you do so fuel should come out of the squirter. Your symptoms sound like an accelerator pump issue, but they could just as easily be caused by low float level.

Checking power valve and a few other things require taking the carb apart, you should have gaskets and maybe a manual or some other reference before you tackle something like that. Checking the floats, adjusting the idle speed, and adjusting the idle mixture take care of most issues. If you adjust the float level, go back and make sure the timing is good. Every other adjustment seems to affect timing.

Good luck.
Good luck. These people here really know their stuff. Forgive me for being a stick in the mud, but I never had any luck with Holleys. After about the 3rd or 4th problem child, I switched to other brands. They were on stock engines, nothing radical.
 
I knew my motor burned a little bit of oil, so I went and checked it today. It was two quarts low and I just did an oil change on it about 300 miles ago. It's not leaking out anywhere, so a quart every 150 miles seems pretty catastrophic. A rebuild is certainly not in the budget right now, so I'll be spending a few more dollars on a quart of oil every gas fill up.

Do you know where the oil is coming from? Could even be a PCV issue...
 
I knew my motor burned a little bit of oil, so I went and checked it today. It was two quarts low and I just did an oil change on it about 300 miles ago. It's not leaking out anywhere, so a quart every 150 miles seems pretty catastrophic. A rebuild is certainly not in the budget right now, so I'll be spending a few more dollars on a quart of oil every gas fill up.
Yep, that's a pretty aggressive "burn rate." It's funny how years ago (dating myself) it was common to see cars going down the highway billowing blue smoke. Pretty rare sight these days. Good luck and keep plenty of oil in that pretty blue baby.
 
I really don't know where the oil is coming from. I've not noticed a lot of smoke; there is some at start up, but I think I have the EFI set a little rich until it gets to temperature. It's also possible that it smokes more than I notice.

I did a compression check not too long ago and the cylinders were all between 129 and 137, but I guess the oil rings could be bad. I have a breather and PCV combo on the passenger side and just a regular PCV valve on the driver side. I guess I should test those out.

I ordered some new parts that should be here in the next week or two. More on them when they get here.
 
Hey ryman... I am in Concord if you need extra hands on the oil issue. Do the spark plug electrodes have a healthy look, or are they all crudded up from burning oil?
 
Hey ryman... I am in Concord if you need extra hands on the oil issue. Do the spark plug electrodes have a healthy look, or are they all crudded up from burning oil?

The plugs seem to get fouled pretty quickly. You're not far from me at all; I'm on the east side of Charlotte.
 
Here is the first clue as to what new parts are on the way....

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Here is the first upgrade:

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This is the setup from Classic Dash. Overall I'm happy. I think it looks great. There were some frustrating portions of the install (mainly the heater controls), but I think my solution will work. The wiring while initially a little intimidating, wasn't too bad. If you've ever installed an aftermarket stereo, you can do this.
 
Here is the first upgrade:

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This is the setup from Classic Dash. Overall I'm happy. I think it looks great. There were some frustrating portions of the install (mainly the heater controls), but I think my solution will work. The wiring while initially a little intimidating, wasn't too bad. If you've ever installed an aftermarket stereo, you can do this.

Nice, yep, definitely different than what I did!
 
Here is the other upgrade, a Firm Feel Stage 3 power steering box.

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Every review I read of the Stage 2 they said they wish they had gotten the Stage 3, but I didn't see anyone wishing they hadn't gotten the Stage 3. I think if I were to do it again, I'd get the Stage 2. It's certainly not as firm as manual steering, but it would be really easy to convince someone who didn't know better.

Either way, it's worlds better than the worn out box that I had. Steering input no longer feels like a suggestion.

EDIT: Looks like I spoke too soon. I bled the system again and it is a much easier feel. I need to put some more miles on it to get a good opinion of it, but I'm happy so far.
 
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I've been working on a lot of little things on the car lately. The oil burn doesn't seem to be the issue that I thought it was. I've been checking it a lot recently and the oil level has stayed pretty consistent. I've taken it on several rides this year and it drives great.

However, I am considering selling the car. I've had it for seven years and I've done most everything I can justify spending money on. I just had a baby in March and I'm in grad school, so it doesn't get the attention it should. I realize a car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, prices are subjective and dependent on the location and bunch of other factors. However, can anyone give me a rough ball park on what you think my car is worth? You won't hurt my feelings, but I have a friend who might be interested, so I need to know what to expect. I don't need to sell it, so if it's not worth much, I'll just hang on to it and drive it when I can. I've listed a lot below and I realize they don't all add value, but I've included it all just to share what I've done.

Here are the stats:

Drivetrain:

360 engine
727 transmission (external cooler)
8.75 rear end (489 case 3.23 gears open)

Under the hood:

Doug's ceramic coated headers
MSD Ignition digital 6AL, pro billet distributor, and coil
Holley Sniper EFI
Firm Feel Stage 3 power steering box
Tanks Inc. fuel tank with internal pump
Larger B body radiator

Weels/Tires/Brakes:

American Racing Torque Thrust II wheels (17x8, 18x9.5)
Nitto NT555 tires (245/45/17, 275/40/18)
Big bolt pattern discs front & drums rear

Interior:

Autometer Cobalt gauges with Classic Dash bezel
B&M floor shifter
Rebuilt heater box with new core
Bucket seats
Three point seatbelts
Grant steering wheel

Suspension:

PST 1.03" torsion bars
Super stock rear springs (inboarded)
KYB shocks
US Car Tool subframe connectors
Hellwig front sway bar
New upper ball joints
New pitman arm
New strut rod bushings
 
Yes, Congrats on the baby.

Hey, I wonder if someone like Streetside here in town would give you a ball park idea of value?
 
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