'68 Barracuda Notch

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The car is ready to go to paint.



The engine bay will be painted and the rear rust will also be addressed. I got an AMD rear quarter.



Unless I change my mind between now and Saturday, the car will be painted Cadillac Opulent Blue.

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rymanrph said:
Thanks for the input. I have a running list of pictures I've bookmarked for cars I like (color, wheels, interior, etc.) and yours is one of them because I really like the way those Torq Thrust wheels look.
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I like them, but they are VERY common these days and they are not made in sizes I am considering.

rymanrph said:
Your car and my car probably started out life looking very similar since mine was originally GG1.
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It's not too late to go green! I am looking to go with paint code WA9529.


rymanrph said:
I know that I have the newer A body disc brakes up front. Would that mean I have the same upper control arm and spindle as you?
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Yep, more than likely. I swapped to the 11.875" Cordoba rotors and matching pin style calipers from a '78.
 
Green is my second choice. I really like greens. My Comanche is Jeep Rescue Green, but I've always wanted a blue car. I want something bright and I typically like my greens a little dark.
 
I ran into a big problem with the car today. I found out that the VIN tag on the dash does not match the fender tag or the serial numbers on the rest of the body (radiator support and under the trunk weather seal).

The reason this is a problem is because I have already applied for a title, but I have not received it yet. Since the car was purchased from out of state the North Carolina DMV License and Theft Bureau has to complete an inspection of the vehicle. You have a year to complete this and they won't issue the title until that happens. The title that I turned in matches the dash and not the rest of the car, so I foresee some major headaches in the near future.

Needless to say, the car did not go to the paint shop today.
 
Ok, so I didn't realize that those numbers aren't supposed to match until 1969. Crisis averted. The car will be going to the shop later today.
 
Number on the radiator support and trunk lip is the order number on your fender tag. The only place I know to match up the order number and VIN is the broadcast sheet. My warranty card in the back of my owners manual has the VIN along with paint, interior codes. Engine code on VIN will match to the fender tag.
 
I spoke to my body guy yesterday. When he was replacing my lower quarter panel, I asked him to fill in a couple small holes on the trunk pan extension as well. After looking at it, he decided that the metal was just too thin to patch here and there. He ended up fiberglassing the inner panel. Ideally, I would have rather had a replacement panel used, but in the grand scheme of things its not that big of a deal. The outer panel has been replaced with the AMD panel and the engine bay should be in paint this week. He said that it should be ready up pickup this weekend, so I should either have pictures tomorrow night or Saturday.

I've got a parts list ready to order including a new motor mounts, oil dipstick (broken) and trans dipstick (leaking and possibly cracked), Doug's headers, speedometer cable, electronic ignition conversion (TrailBeat's HEI setup), new distributor cap and rotor.

I'm sure there's more, but that should last me a little while.
 
I know fully well that I have bought a basket case of a car, but its my basket case now and I can't wait to start working on it. I certainly could have saved some money in the long run buying a much nicer car to start with, but half the fun is working on them.

A basket case?!?. You got to be kidding me. That car is pretty nice needing minor things. If you want to see what a basket case looks like, take a look at the pix i have posted on fabo under my avatar of my 67 notchback. Now thats a basket case.

Nice car, good luck with it.

Matt
 
Well, I was really referring to the red car because it was such a hodgepodge of parts. That's why I bought this blue car. It really just needs some minor work and a paint job. The drive train swap is just a bonus.
 
I got the car back today and I'm very happy with work. The rear quarter is now rust free.

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And the engine bay is Opulent Blue.

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Here is a shot with the better camera, but with the flash (it was getting dark).

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I got a lot of little things bolted back in after taking this picture, but I still have several things to order before the motor can go back in including new headers.
 
I have Doug's headers, a new AMD battery tray and new dipsticks for both the 360 and 727 on order. I still need to swing by the parts store to pick up my motor mounts, but the motor should be going back in the car very soon.
 
I came home with and to a bunch of parts today. I got new dipsticks for the engine and trans, a new battery tray, my Doug's headers, a mini starter, pitman arm, speedometer cable and motor mounts.

So far, I know at least the speedometer cable and the motor mounts have to go back. The transmission side of the speedometer cable is the wrong size; its too small. I have a couple other part numbers to try (even though I bought what the computer at Autozone said should work for my car). The other thing I noticed is that the new cable doesn't have a grommet for the firewall. I'm curious how I'm going to get the one off of the old cable and onto the new one.

The other issue I had is with the motor mounts. Even though the computer says the driver side spool mount will work for a 360, its clearly the same part that I had for the 318. I guess I'll just use some washers to make up the gap.

Here's a shot of the old header and Doug's header for comparison.

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One of the reasons I didn't like the old headers was the fact that the center link went through the header on the driver side. Is that the case with the Doug's? If it is, that's annoying, but at least they won't hang down so low.
 
CA 3014 I think is the Pioneer part number for the correct speedo cable, but you will need to find a way to swap the grommet over...I found that part number on Bouchillon's website, but the part is available at chain parts store. Now, if you decide to swap over to an aftermarket speedo with a threaded connection as opposed to a quick release, I think I wound up buying one that cross referenced to a mid-60s Nova...but it worked.
 
txstang84 said:
CA 3014 I think is the Pioneer part number for the correct speedo cable, but you will need to find a way to swap the grommet over...I found that part number on Bouchillon's website, but the part is available at chain parts store. Now, if you decide to swap over to an aftermarket speedo with a threaded connection as opposed to a quick release, I think I wound up buying one that cross referenced to a mid-60s Nova...but it worked.
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That appears to be the correct fitting, but its 80" long instead of the original at 63". I can't seem to find a new unit in the correct length.
 
I have most everything back in the engine bay. I got a new pitman arm and got it connected back with the steering box. I got the steering column back in as well as the wiring harness and a bunch of other little things.

I got the 360 off the stand today. I wanted to get the transmission bolted up so that I could check clearances on the new headers and mini starter. Looks like all is well.

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Now I just need to bribe someone to come out to my house to help me drop it in.
 
rymanrph said:
That appears to be the correct fitting, but its 80" long instead of the original at 63". I can't seem to find a new unit in the correct length.
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Hey Ryan try ATP, here is there website, they are the MFG for quite a few cables. They may be able to custom make you one. 63" sounds pretty much the same length as what we put in dads 67 cuda. We discovered them as we orig ordered from Rock Auto...cheap $11 for the cable. Well when we got the cable it was in ATP packaging and it was wrong length. Called ATP and informed them....eventually we got it fingered out. Guy I dealt with on the phone from ATP was great....wish I could say the same for Rock Auto...good luck! And great work, that is an awesome blue!! Ooops here is the link

http://www.atp-inc.com/
 
Its home! I had a friend stop by and help me out for a couple hours today.

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I hope I never have to tackle headers again. That was way more difficult than it should have been. I feel like its all down hill from here. There is still plenty to do, but it shouldn't be too bad.
 
I posted something earlier about my starter, but it wasn't the issue I thought it was. My goal was to get the car running by the end of the year. I'm not sure I'm going to make it, but I might get close.

I found an original speedo cable on ebay (used), but it was a lot cheaper than going to the dealer for a new one. It also has the firewall grommet too, so hopefully its the right one and will work. It should be here by the week's end.
 
I've continually made some progress. The speedo cable I found on ebay was correct, so I'm glad that worked out.

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It looks like a car again. I'm dealing with several wiring issues, but the rest is just bolting up small pieces. After I get all the wiring situated, I'll be ready for fluids. I was hoping to get it running and driving by the end of the year. I probably won't make that deadline, but I'm getting pretty close.
 
I got my Flaming River steering column couple this weekend. I wasn't too happy about having to spend $190 just for header clearance.

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I ordered TrailBeast's HEI upgrade and I've got a new distributor, cap, rotor, wires and plugs ready to go.
 
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