68 Dart damaged instrument cluster circuit board

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To test any lightbulbs ground the housing, apply voltage to the post that goes to the bulb in question.

DO NOT APPLY VOLTAGE TO THE SENDER PINS

DO NOT GROUND THE SENDER PINS
(You can ground for a VERY short amount of time to test that the gauges move)
Screenshot_20220908-211913~3.png
 
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Hi Dana, I literally have nothing to plug into the area you have kindly highlighted... Can you please advise what exactly I need to buy to make these work? I have scoped the CI website, but can't seem to find actual push/pull replacement globes-bulbs or the holders? Also, are the turn signal bulbs wired separately from the circuit board they sit in?
 
Once you get your boards repaired, put in bulbs, apply 6v to the board and see if they light up. Replacing the voltage reg for the board is a good idea.
I just made my dash harness and installed LED's they look good, just make sure they are oriented(polarity specific) properly.
Thanks... I just need to find out where I can get the original style bulbs/holders, I was hoping from CI, as I have to place an order there anyways, and hoping to combine shipping, that costs a small fortune being based here!
 
Glad to help, orig bulbs are 194's, pretty common. The bulb holders themselves can be very frustrating to find, as there are some that are "close", BUT are wrong and dont stay in the hole properly. Make sure whichever ones you find that they confirm correct. OR if(and I suggest you do) you send your boards to Moparmike, that he may have bulb holders? I have a few but to ship just bulb holders is foolish lol.
Thanks... I just need to find out where I can get the original style bulbs/holders, I was hoping from CI, as I have to place an order there anyways, and hoping to combine shipping, that costs a small fortune being based here!
 
Glad to help, orig bulbs are 194's, pretty common. The bulb holders themselves can be very frustrating to find, as there are some that are "close", BUT are wrong and dont stay in the hole properly. Make sure whichever ones you find that they confirm correct. OR if(and I suggest you do) you send your boards to Moparmike, that he may have bulb holders? I have a few but to ship just bulb holders is foolish lol.
Hmmmm I though the bulb holders might be easy to source brand new... If it's too hard, I won't bother, now that I think about it, I may be able to source them here in Oz fe the same vintage model Valiant that we had , Tha ks again
 
My recollection is the correct bulbfor instrument lighting is 158.
Check your owners manual, or faciling that, the FSM.
IIRC 194 was used later on for outside side markers.
In particular for the turn signal indicator bulbs it is important to have the correct ones so the flasher unit work at the proper rate.

The bulb holders are common, although quality of the replacements vary...
 
My recollection is the correct bulbfor instrument lighting is 158.
Check your owners manual, or faciling that, the FSM.
IIRC 194 was used later on for outside side markers.
In particular for the turn signal indicator bulbs it is important to have the correct ones so the flasher unit work at the proper rate.

The bulb holders are common, although quality of the replacements vary...
Hi Mattax, thanks for your input, I just checked the chart on CI website and is seems you are correct, it does indeed specify 158 as the bulb numbers for my 68 Dart... I guess that means the link provided previously to the holders/bulbs on Amazon may not be correct for my application?
 
Hi Mattax, thanks for your input, I just checked the chart on CI website and is seems you are correct, it does indeed specify 158 as the bulb numbers for my 68 Dart... I guess that means the link provided previously to the holders/bulbs on Amazon may not be correct for my application?
I check the factory books first 'cause that time is well worth avoiding ot worth the hassle and cost.
Holder's. Hold On. Lemme get a screen shot from lamp catalog and maybe some photos.
 
I check the factory books first 'cause that time is well worth avoiding ot worth the hassle and cost.
Holder's. Hold On. Lemme get a screen shot from lamp catalog and maybe some photos.
Awesome, as I don't have a factory book, ...but it may be in my owners manual actually, i can double check tomorrow:)
 
Wagner 2008 Lighting Catalog
158 is T 3 1/4 Wedge base.

With the holders, many, many cars and trucks used these these on the circuit boards.
My recollection is the first big thing to check is the diameter, as there were at least that were very common.

Two things to check for in terms of decent fit and function are the locking ears and and the contact surfaces.
upload_2022-9-9_9-45-21.png


I know on one vehicle I ended up transplanting the original contacts to a new plastic holder a tweaking was needed.
I think with the Barracuda the only issue was the contacts weren't well formed (see holder on left in photo). Compare the one in the middle that has more surface in contact with the board and better shape to maintain the spring force keeping it contact.
 
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Awesome, as I don't have a factory book, ...but it may be in my owners manual actually, i can double check tomorrow:)
Owners book is often better for lamps anyway.
www.mymopar.com may have the '68 Dodge FSM. I have the Plymouth version in paper and its 158 for illumination and turn signal indicators for Valiants.


Okay, I actually just found this thread, that says 194s can be used, they're just a bit stronger/brighter... I is getting confused:lol:

Instrument panel bulbs
Answer
In particular for the turn signal indicator bulbs it is important to have the correct ones so the flasher unit work at the proper rate.
The aftermarket would much prefer you buy one size fits most, works just the same for us, performing as intended not our concern, why do you care it an old car, and this way we only have to stock one part....

According to this Wagner's 2008 catalog, they are equally bright, but they 158 draws less power.
upload_2022-9-9_10-2-12.png


The 194 has a longer lamp life, but that 500 hours is a lot of turn signal blinking! and even for instrument illumination, its a lot of years. More if you don't always have the instruments on maximum brightness.

edit.
Another differenec is the filiment type.
upload_2022-9-9_10-32-54.png

I don't specialize in lighting, but the c-2V shape sure looks like it follows the bulb shape and will be more evenly dispersed to the sides, and less out toward our eyes.
 
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If I ever get around to converting my cluster to LEDs I am planning on soldering them in.
 
Looks like you've received plenty of advice. I'd just add that those who are going to do the same cluster removal, soak those circuit board plugs in some penetrating oil before trying to remove them. I like using a screwdriver to GENTLY pry the plug straight out a little at a time. You don't want to bend the plug or try yanking on it. That particular circuit board is prone to breaking right off. A bit of lube when you re-install them is a good idea too.
 
okay thanks everyone, so it seems the consensus is I can simply use the 194's that come with the holders if I wish to re-install the missing turn signals....? all of my other holders are fine, and i think i only have one blown globe...
 
Look do yourself a favor.........look in the FACTORY MANUAL and find out what lamps are SUPPOSED to be in the cluster, then look up any substitutes you are considering and COMPARE WATTAGE ratings, because you can melt the nice little tinted diffusers inside the cluster.

EG 158 is .24A @14V / 3.6watt
194 is .27A @ 14V / 3.78W

Now those two examples may not be significant, but there may be others
 
Look do yourself a favor.........look in the FACTORY MANUAL and find out what lamps are SUPPOSED to be in the cluster, then look up any substitutes you are considering and COMPARE WATTAGE ratings, because you can melt the nice little tinted diffusers inside the cluster.

EG 158 is .24A @14V / 3.6watt
194 is .27A @ 14V / 3.78W

Now those two examples may not be significant, but there may be others
Thanks... I've found 158's through CI, and will just use those to be safe...
 
BTW

If it was me...

I would get both boards, and a r-t engineering IVR

RTE limiter - rte

I have to pull my cluster because my OEM ivr died and fried my temp gauge.

When the heater wire in the IVR breaks the IVR provided 12v continuous to the gauges.

You don't have much to loose trying to fix it.

I like the brass pin nail repair, just watch the heat so you don't delaminate the copper traces off the board.

You could re-engineer it. Solder wires to the board, and create an appropriate pin on the end of each wire that will connect up to the stock connector in the wiring harness.

Be sure no exposed conductors.
Hey Dana, I have ordered the RT IVR as kindly advised by yourself, was wondering, does this now mean I can do away with the capacitor, and simply run the new solid state VR?
 
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