69 383 Performance

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383 powered Darts are not to be taken lightly. Sure are not "Dogs" Now in a 65 Newport, 2bbl with "no" cam, not going to be a fast car. But even then not a dog. Plenty of power for what it is. And above posters explanation of what makes an engine have power not totally accurate. An Internal combustion engine is nothing more than an Air mover. The engines ability to move the most amount of air efficiantly is the key. And burn the fuel laden Air as best it can. The more air you can move the more power you can make. One restriction will reduce power everywhere.
 
Fast is subjective and as Rusty said, also relative to historical time periods.
 
true zero deck , ported 915 with 2.14 and 1.74 valves, mid 500 solid cam or a little bigger like mine, holley street dominator with 750 holley, 3800 stall converter and steep gears.
 
71 383 .030 over .012 in the hole trw 2315s 906 heads good valve job mopar 509 cam matching springs m1 single plain intake 830 hp holley 4000 ptc converter 4.56 gears 9"slicks in a 3400lb duster 7.60 91.00mph 1/8 mi got less than $1200.00 in long block don't really consider it a dog.
 
71 383 .030 over .012 in the hole trw 2315s 906 heads good valve job mopar 509 cam matching springs m1 single plain intake 830 hp holley 4000 ptc converter 4.56 gears 9"slicks in a 3400lb duster 7.60 91.00mph 1/8 mi got less than $1200.00 in long block don't really consider it a dog.

It isn't. That's about a 12.00 car. Apply today's overdrive technology it could be driven down the road too. Quick car.
 
383s are dogs? Is that why the 68 Road Runners were such pieces of ****? Is that why the 343 HP 383 dual carb cars ruled Stock Eliminator back in the day?

Seriously?

Tune what's there first. The carburetor is about right for a street 383. It's not too small. Make sure your timing curve is right. You want "somewhere close" to 20* initial with around 34-36* total all in by about 2500 RPM. Get the timing right FIRST, or else all else will be incorrect.

Make sure the carburetor floats are not too low or high. Read the plugs and adjust the carburetor mixture and metering springs as needed. You shouldn't need to change metering rods or jets because they should be right on the money at your 383's mild power level. Once you get it all tuned correctly, I think you will be happy.

How do I check the "timing curve"?
 
How do I check the "timing curve"?

Check the timing at idle. this is your "initial timing" with a very mild or stock cam i think 12-16* is a good base line.

while you are timing have another person in the car (in park gear) rev the engine gradually until you see the timing stop climbing. this should be in the 33-36* range. this is your Total timing"

Now do that same process again and with the timing light going have your assistant very gradually rev the engine while you pay very close attention to when the timing STOPS advancing and reaches your totol timing #. When you reach that point have your assistant note the RPM at which the timing stopped advancing this is your "timing all in" point.

so when somebody says. 16* initial, 34* total and all in by 2500rpm. they are saying:

I have 16* timing at idle, 34* total timing that is fully advanced at 2500 rpm.

your distributor has a mechanical advance mechanism built into it. your timing will advance farther with engine rpm. you can fine tune "timing curve" by setting how much timing you have at idle, how fast the distributor advances the timing in comparison to engine RPM and how much total timing the distributor provides.


If you perform these steps and get us the #'s it will help us help you. so get the initial (idle timing), the total timing ( timing at higher engine RPM) then let us know when your timing is "all in" (what RPM the timing stops advancing)


Not all 383's are dogs. in fact they built the foundation that the mopar street cred. was built on back in the muscle car days. I have a 383 in my dart and it is not a dog!

[ame]https://youtu.be/DKWDPngenqE[/ame]
 
Check the timing at idle. this is your "initial timing" with a very mild or stock cam i think 12-16* is a good base line.

while you are timing have another person in the car (in park gear) rev the engine gradually until you see the timing stop climbing. this should be in the 33-36* range. this is your Total timing"

Now do that same process again and with the timing light going have your assistant very gradually rev the engine while you pay very close attention to when the timing STOPS advancing and reaches your totol timing #. When you reach that point have your assistant note the RPM at which the timing stopped advancing this is your "timing all in" point.

so when somebody says. 16* initial, 34* total and all in by 2500rpm. they are saying:

I have 16* timing at idle, 34* total timing that is fully advanced at 2500 rpm.

your distributor has a mechanical advance mechanism built into it. your timing will advance farther with engine rpm. you can fine tune "timing curve" by setting how much timing you have at idle, how fast the distributor advances the timing in comparison to engine RPM and how much total timing the distributor provides.


If you perform these steps and get us the #'s it will help us help you. so get the initial (idle timing), the total timing ( timing at higher engine RPM) then let us know when your timing is "all in" (what RPM the timing stops advancing)


Not all 383's are dogs. in fact they built the foundation that the mopar street cred. was built on back in the muscle car days. I have a 383 in my dart and it is not a dog!

https://youtu.be/DKWDPngenqE



I have zero knowledge on timing, do I need a timing light? How and where do I read the *16 numbers from?
 
Here are two pics that might help. You´ll be able to read where the ignition is set at the tab where the arrow points. Yes, you´ll need a timinglight. There are two options, one timinglight that you´re able to preset the timing you would want. And the other one is "static" and you´ll read the actual number on the damper (in this case it helps with a timing tape on the damper, see pic).
Here´s a video where he dynos a 383 and sets the timing in the beginning of the vid.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnaRtd-SSJY"]MOPAR 383 CHRYSLER DYNO SESSION - YouTube[/ame]
 

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roccodart440, you must not have been in too many 383 cars....LOL.
How old are you? A stock 68 2Bbl 383 would burn the tires off a dart.
 
All this stuff is over my head, there is a hot rod shop close to me that I talked to and I plan on taking it to them soon and have them give me some ideas on what to do. I am mechanical (can take things on and off) but don't know the first thing about comp readings, lift readings ect.

Thanks

Its time to learn how to tune it.
Most hot rod shops want to sell you alot of parts, many may or may not be needed.
Read and ask alot of questions here and do it yourself.
 
I was about to say, look up younggun2.0 and his 383...nuff said.

his combo is a good example of the potential of oem style shortblock with mild camshaft and
unported aftermarket heads.
 
You really need to know what cam is in it and how it was installed as well as compression.

My 70 HP (9.5:1) motor with the old 284/484 cam (degreed per MP spec) ran like a scalded dog in a 70 B body. The carb was kind of a ***** to dail in and I had to basically make a holley 650 with a 750 rear metering block/power valve, and run a shiteload of advance.

Was fairly well streetable with stock converter and factory 3.55 gears.

That car beat big block camaros, 5.7 trans am gtas, and all sorts of 5.0 mustangs.
 
383s are dogs? Is that why the 68 Road Runners were such pieces of ****? Is that why the 343 HP 383 dual carb cars ruled Stock Eliminator back in the day?

Seriously?

Tune what's there first. The carburetor is about right for a street 383. It's not too small. Make sure your timing curve is right. You want "somewhere close" to 20* initial with around 34-36* total all in by about 2500 RPM. Get the timing right FIRST, or else all else will be incorrect.

Make sure the carburetor floats are not too low or high. Read the plugs and adjust the carburetor mixture and metering springs as needed. You shouldn't need to change metering rods or jets because they should be right on the money at your 383's mild power level. Once you get it all tuned correctly, I think you will be happy.

This ^ would be a good start.

* Make sure the Timing is 'correct'.
* Check Spark Plugs
* Carburetor tweaking
* Compression Test

Also, there were '3' versions of the 383 {1968 and 1969}
* 383/270 HP ~ 2-Barrel {Low-Compression}
* 383/330 HP ~ 4-Barrel {Mild Camshaft and low Load-rate Valve Springs}
* 383/335 HP ~ 4-Barrel {Road Runner and Super Bee Engine}

Be advised, that those 383 Horsepower numbers were all 'over-rated' by the Factory.
 
Its time to learn how to tune it.
Most hot rod shops want to sell you alot of parts, many may or may not be needed.
Read and ask alot of questions here and do it yourself.

I bought a gauge last night to check compression and also bought a timing light. I don't have any timing tape on my balancer so I purchased that as well. I know how to check compression but I don't understand how to read the degrees off the balancer while the car is running. Do you shine the timing light at the balancer and see what degree its at?
 
roccodart440, you must not have been in too many 383 cars....LOL.
How old are you? A stock 68 2Bbl 383 would burn the tires off a dart.

All of the cars I've been in with 383's have been B bodies. Probably a 1/2 dozen. I've raced quite a few too. I'm 36. I've had 2 440 darts. One 340 dart. One sad 6. A car burning the tires doesn't really impress me nor is it a display of being fast. A friend has a Camaro and loves to do epic burnouts. I finally got home to show up to the strip. High 14's was all he could muster.


his combo is a good example of the potential of oem style shortblock with mild camshaft and
unported aftermarket heads.

Mild cam? Young guns car is in the dictionary next to the word innovation. I've heard it run. doesn't sound that mild. His car seems real stout. I'm not saying a 383 CAN'T be fast. Just the ones I've been around haven't been. I also think starting with 57 extra cubic inches is worth seeking out a 440 block to start.
 
All of the cars I've been in with 383's have been B bodies. Probably a 1/2 dozen. I've raced quite a few too. I'm 36. I've had 2 440 darts. One 340 dart. One sad 6. A car burning the tires doesn't really impress me nor is it a display of being fast. A friend has a Camaro and loves to do epic burnouts. I finally got home to show up to the strip. High 14's was all he could muster.




Mild cam? Young guns car is in the dictionary next to the word innovation. I've heard it run. doesn't sound that mild. His car seems real stout. I'm not saying a 383 CAN'T be fast. Just the ones I've been around haven't been. I also think starting with 57 extra cubic inches is worth seeking out a 440 block to start.


I built that engine when i was 17. I was just a punk kid buying speed parts out of a catalog. I didn't know what i was doing and had no idea how to build a good combo in an engine. What I did was bolt on too much head, too much cam, too much intake and too much carb. It just happened to work half *** decent. If my engine had more compression it would be a whole other animal.


I only built the 383 because i got if for $100 bucks and it just kinda happened. Now having learned a few things with this package I am building a 400 b engine stroker. The new 470" stroker is going to be a beast!
 
Just to show the potential of a "dog" 383. I worked with a guy who had, from new, a "68" 383 4 speed Road Runner that was consistently into the 12's. What great speed equipment did he employ? All he did was change gears, milled the heads, and richened the original AVS and tuned it. If you think that is slow, look for published times of "as delivered" 440's or Street Hemi's or any other cars from those years.

To Milo3156, Yes, that is how to time an engine, assuming "0" or TDC is accurate. Compression readings just show if there is a problem that will keep you from reaching the engines potential. Learn to tune that 383, no need to change motors unless there is something wrong with it. There is great satisfaction in transforming a "Dog" into a Wolf.
 
Just to show the potential of a "dog" 383. I worked with a guy who had, from new, a "68" 383 4 speed Road Runner that was consistently into the 12's. What great speed equipment did he employ? All he did was change gears, milled the heads, and richened the original AVS and tuned it. If you think that is slow, look for published times of "as delivered" 440's or Street Hemi's or any other cars from those years.

To Milo3156, Yes, that is how to time an engine, assuming "0" or TDC is accurate. Compression readings just show if there is a problem that will keep you from reaching the engines potential. Learn to tune that 383, no need to change motors unless there is something wrong with it. There is great satisfaction in transforming a "Dog" into a Wolf.


Oh Boy !!

Getting a 1968 Road Runner 383 into the 12.90's , with just a gear change and
milling the Cylinder Heads.

Easy there Fredo !!

Back in 1968, that was within 1/10th of the NHRA National Record
for E/S and E/SA.

Where is this 'special' Beep Beep Machine. I will buy it.


Back in 1
 
Oh Boy !!

Getting a 1968 Road Runner 383 into the 12.90's , with just a gear change and
milling the Cylinder Heads.

Easy there Fredo !!

Back in 1968, that was within 1/10th of the NHRA National Record
for E/S and E/SA.

Where is this 'special' Beep Beep Machine. I will buy it.


Back in 1

He sold it years ago. He mainly raced at 75-80 Dragway in Maryland for years. If he knew where it was, he would have it. I'm sure most of us have been there.
 
I often wondered what the 383 HP from our 1970 Chrysler Town & Country wagon would have done in a lighter car. It was quick in the wagon!
 
1968 ~ 1969 ~ 1970

The 383/335 HP

A tremendously durable Big Block Engine. You couldn't 'Kill Them'.

In the Road Runner and Super Bee { Shipping Weight; #3450 llbs.} they
were very good 'Street Machines', as the 'no frills' B-Body cars were fairly
light in the weight department.

They were not dominant, but they were capable 'street runners' in stock form.

With nothing more than a set of 'street' Gears {3.91}, and a set of 'street-type' Cyclone Headers, they were capable of running 14.20's @ 97 MPH.

Now at the Drag Strip in the {10.00 to 10.49 Wt/HP} Class.

"That Was A Different Story. And It Was Not Pretty'
 
my experience back in the day was that stock style 383's were lazy.
That fat piston and short stroke needed a gear to get it going respectably.
340...now that was a different story
 
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