69 A56 340 'Cuda 4 speed

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Wow! That's bad ***!
Same with AlV.....that'68 is nice but not what this post is about......thanks. Give the ORIGINAL OWNER his due PRIDE on a real 340 'cuda package car!!!!!!
 
Dave, it will b all taped off before it is painted
They r still sanding. Stuff still has to come out. It will b done right. Curt
 
I agreee with Dave. Remove everything that you can. Taping IMHO is a distant second if you are trying to preserve the original finishes of all the other stuff that is not body color.

Either way, it is coming along. You plan on having it ready to go after the snow melts up there? You are gonig through it like a man possessed, thats for sure.
 
Same with AlV.....that'68 is nice but not what this post is about......thanks. Give the ORIGINAL OWNER his due PRIDE on a real 340 'cuda package car!!!!!!

i see your point Dave... Unfortunately, I can't find a way to edit the post at this time. That being said. I think that Real 340 'Cuda stands alone and the incredible story of how they ( the original owner and car) found each other can hardly be overshadowed. One of the most captivating stories I've followed.
 
i see your point Dave... Unfortunately, I can't find a way to edit the post at this time. That being said. I think that Real 340 'Cuda stands alone and the incredible story of how they ( the original owner and car) found each other can hardly be overshadowed. One of the most captivating stories I've followed.

Sorry, forgot, your rite, after awhile on this site you can't edit/change your own post?????

Just trying to keep the spot light on the real reason for this post. I sold the car back to Curt so i'm really enjoying the excitement he is having on getting his old car back on the road!!!!!!!............besides it being one BAD A$$, RARE car!!
 
Sorry, forgot, your rite, after awhile on this site you can't edit/change your own post?????

Just trying to keep the spot light on the real reason for this post. I sold the car back to Curt so i'm really enjoying the excitement he is having on getting his old car back on the road!!!!!!!............besides it being one BAD A$$, RARE car!!

That's Cool Dave! It's understandable, You played a big part in the is reunion and for sure that car is both Rare and Bad ***! I respect what you did letting it go back home. Pa Karp is a lucky man!

Big :thumbup:
 
I just got the AVS back. Looks good now for being 44 years old!

Curt Rees
 

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Is that the correct date coded carb for the car? There should be a stamp on the same foot as the carb number. Can't remember the SPD on your car, but I suspect that it might be something like A9, B9 or C9...

Also the finish does not look spot on to me. Might be the lighting.

I know you are after a very good driver, but if it is worth doing right, it should only be done once.

I hoped they checked the throttle shafts for play as well. Personally I would have sent it to Harms Auto, but that's just me.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=257472

That can sort of be a reference perhaps, or a correct spare....


None if this makes me love that car any less, though!
 
This is getting interesting! The base of the AVS says C2 4611S. I have been doing some reading, and a replacement carb more then likely would have an SA.

So, my question is, what do i have here? Does the C2 mean March of 1972? If it is a replacement, should it not be 4611SA?

Oh well, I bet it will still run fine. Which is what I am after anyway!

Need some more input also. The car has an upgraded wiring harness for an electronic ignition. The voltage regulator was not upgraded. What would your recommend for an upgraded voltage regulator and alternator?

Curt Rees
 
Need some more input also. The car has an upgraded wiring harness for an electronic ignition. The voltage regulator was not upgraded. What would your recommend for an upgraded voltage regulator and alternator?

you can buy a solid state alternator voltage regulator, that looks just like the stocker. more reliable. you can also get a solid state IVR (instrument voltage regulator) plugsin place of the stock points type on the back of the dash. the stock gages run on 6 volts, and a vibrating points type regulator dropped the 12 volts to 6 for the gages. problem with these is that as they get older they have a tendency to stick closed pinning the gages, or stick open causing the gage needles to fall. the solid state ones plug n play, and look like original.
 
So, my question is, what do i have here? Does the C2 mean March of 1972? If it is a replacement, should it not be 4611SA?

Curt, you are correct on both counts.

Also, carb tag colors can help to identify thier original purpose; gold anodized tags were often found on replacement carbs, production examples (for a vintage AVS) were typically silver, blue, or red/burgundy. The link that I sent should also help illustrate that. Also, many of replacement carbs of the era had the added "A" after the "S" like you mentioned. Production line versions just had the "S" after the number.

Here is one from April 1969 that is a replacement model. Would not be desired in your application.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1969-340-4-S...r-AVS-D9-Mopar-Swinger-Cuda-GTS-/230999611688

There were some other minor details outside of the finish that had my "spidey sense" tingling. Now that you tell me that it had an electronic ignition upgrade as well makes me think that someone was trying to improve the overall driveability of your car at some point along the way.

That link that I sent would be a correct application for your car based upon a winter 68 or early spring 69 SPD. IIRC, your car's build date on the fender tag was Thursday, March 13, 1969, so that carb in my original link is a "better fit".

I am not trying to be confrontational, just trying to pass along information that you can put in your tool box down the road. I recognize your first priority is to get the car running (which should be everyone's priority). Hell, you have more history (twice) with that car than anyone else ever will. If down the road you are looking to improve upon the car, you will have an idea of what to look for.

I appreciate the stories of how it ran against other cars back in the day, and from the looks of it it will run that way again soon! Keep pushing forward!
 
Well, the good old South Dakota winter has brought things to a stand still. My buddy in the body shop is real busy with the winter fender benders and my agreement with him is that his regular business takes precedence! I don't have a problem with that. He will get to the 'Cuda eventually.

I had to order some more parts for the motor. The cam shaft came, so the finishing touches are being done on the motor. The trans will be ready to go this Friday, finally got all the correct linkage stuff and a shifter handle.

Spring time for the 1st drive in 44 years is probably realistic. Got to be patient!

Curt Rees:burnout:
 
Kurt, hang in there!!! Sounds like now is not the time to cruise the 'cuda anyways with the winter weather. Glad u understand that body guys need the fender benders to keep in business. Now is their busy time.........keep working on the parts u can.
Will the motor go on a dyno for HP pulls? I definitely was thinking the '68 4 speed cam if I had put the car back together!!!!

If spring is going to be your 1st drive.........maybe I could cruise out there if my work schedule allows?????????????????
 
Dave, there is no dyno close to me. It would be interesting to see what power the engine will make. It is built with 9.3/1 compression, forged pistons and steel crank. The cam I a m using is a Speed Pro CS1019R, it is very close to the '68 4 speed cam.

The engine is blue printed and balanced. I am using the original factory 2.02 heads, factory intake with the AVS. The carb was rebuilt by Dean Oliver, with his latest tricks. It should be a strong street motor!

I would be glad to show you the finer points of South Dakota, we could wet a line for the best eating fish there is, Walleye. We might even take the 'Cuda and make a trip to the Black Hills, and view Mt Rushmore!

Spring will be here before we know it!:burnout:

Curt Rees
 
you can also get a solid state IVR (instrument voltage regulator) plugsin place of the stock points type on the back of the dash. the stock gages run on 6 volts, and a vibrating points type regulator dropped the 12 volts to 6 for the gages. problem with these is that as they get older they have a tendency to stick closed pinning the gages, or stick open causing the gage needles to fall. the solid state ones plug n play, and look like original.

On a '69 Barracuda the IVR is integrated with the fuel gauge as one part so no "plug in" IVR for this car....
 
The engine bay is painted! In the process of touching up what needs to be black. The short block is done, needed to round up some parts for the heads, got that done on Tuesday. Another week or so I will be picking up the engine.

Progress on the 'Cuda got short tracked a little more, since I am now a "regular" customer of my body shop guy. Smacked a deer with my 2012 Ram diesel, after 32 years and 1.2 million miles on the road, finally happened! Minor damage, $4300.
:eek:ops:
I needed a new pickup anyway, going to order the new 1500 Ram with the V6 diesel as soon as they are available. Supposedly 26 mpg, and plenty of power.

Curt Rees
 
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