69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth

[JAndrea]

View attachment 1714948770 View attachment 1714948771 View attachment 1714948773 New member here. I finally got my Barracuda and here is where the story starts. Hopefully it will have a happy ending.

So I live near Minneapolis and bought a California project car out near Milwaukee. The whole family joined me on the trip out and back to 'look' at the car. It was a long day inthe car, about 11 hours in the car to go out, make the deal, and then get the car back home on a trailer and into my garage.

The car is incredibly solid all the way around. The car was a vinyl top so the only real rust issues are two small holes at the lower corners below rear window where the panels meet the deck lid.

• No motor, but originally a 318 factory 4 speed (1 of 250 for 69 )
• 23 spline A body length A833 trans from Sept 1970 in trunk right now
• Front disc brakes
• AC
• Power Steering
• 3.23 8 3/4" Sure Grip rear (correction... open rear end)
• I make another run to Milwaukee in 2 days to get the 383 that comes with the project. Supposedly out of a 68 Coronet (no induction system however)

I'm pretty pumped to get the motor home and start tearing it down.

Today got it up on jack stands to test the rear end, then onto wheel dollies, then spent a few hours cleaning out the live wasp nest inside the front fender, along with all of the mouse turds, pine needles, and leaves, etc. Also tore out the rear seats, which, based on how they looked, may have been the site of multiple stabbings.

 

[JAndrea]

More pics...

 

[JAndrea]

...

 

[JAndrea]

...

 

[JAndrea]

The plan is to not tear apart the car for restoration just yet. It is so solid that there is no reason not to get it on the road asap. First steps will be getting after the brakes, steering, having the trans gone through, tires, and locating all shift linkages. The first real challenge will be making the 383/a833 fit into the bay... And I have no idea what I'm in for.

 

[ScampMike]

sounds (and looks) like a great project - keep us posted! That back seat is crazy!! LOL
food for thought - pull the wiring harness and buy a new one... for my 2c, as you're not restoring it - go aftermarket.

 

[4spdragtop]

Congrats! Sure does look solid. A notch is on my bucket list

 

[JAndrea]

Thanks guys.

Yeah... Not looking To do a concourse restoration by any means. Just looking to add some enjoyment to life in a damn cool car.

I did see that wiring running along the back drive-side pillar and thought the same thing. Any links/advice on where to start my reasonably affordable (good quality) aftermarket parts supply hunting will always be appreciated. My experience up til now is has been with vintage motorcycles so this is all new.

 

[ScampMike]

there are so many options these days that the best advice is to let the net do it's thing.. use your favorite search engine and surf away..

 

[racerdan80]

Awesome foundation to start with. Know this, factory 383's were not available with power steering. However conversion mounts and headers are available now so you may install that big block and keep your power steering. Www.engine-swaps.com

 

[JAndrea]

I've got a few Barracuda/Challenger books I've been drooling over for 10 years, including a very thick Restoration Guide, so these will come in handy, but like you say... A lot has changed in the aftermarket since they were printed... So thanks on the 383/power steering and header issue, which were already a couple of challenges I was anticipating running into. Definitely want to do any required conversions to power steering and brakes in the end if possible. I'd like my wife and kids to be able to comfortably drive the car.

 

[BB-Dave]

Looks like a good start!!!!! I'm a '69 NOTCH lover!!!! Any questions just ask.....

 

[JAndrea]

Looks like a good start!!!!! I'm a '69 NOTCH lover!!!! Any questions just ask.....

Sounds good Dave. I'll have many of those! I'm on my way to pick up an induction-less 383 right now... Supposedly from a 68 Coronet. Should be a blank slate so thinking about what heads, manifold, carb, etc right now. Looking to build a strong street motor (somewhere just North of 400 hp).

 

[mosleyme]

Thanks guys.

Yeah... Not looking To do a concourse restoration by any means. Just looking to add some enjoyment to life in a damn cool car.

I did see that wiring running along the back drive-side pillar and thought the same thing. Any links/advice on where to start my reasonably affordable (good quality) aftermarket parts supply hunting will always be appreciated. My experience up til now is has been with vintage motorcycles so this is all new.

There is some "junk" out there, so do your research before you buy anything. Some things it is better to spend a little money on because the headaches otherwise are not worth it.

This is one of the better options for wiring harnesses to replace the OEM; kind of pricey but it includes quite a few parts, including bulb sockets and switches, so when looking at other harness options take that into consideration: 1967-75 Mopar A Body Classic Update Kit | American Autowire

By the way - I really love the Notchback Barracudas and your hood rocks!

 

[mosleyme]

... fitting a 383 should be no problem. I know first hand that a 383 and 440 both fit. I fit a 383 in mine back in 1988 with modified B-body headers and welded 3/8" plate for the driver's motor mount. I have had a 440 in the car since 1994. Here is a picture of mine with the Schumaker headers on a 440 in 2007. The Schumakers will work with factory power steering. The car has had a few changes since then.

 

[JAndrea]

That car is astounding my friend, thanks for the inspiration. I'm definitely going with the scooped hood... Love it. Great to have my mind set at ease with the bb non-factory conversion fitament, and thanks for the harness tip. Sweet looking low profile headers, I've got my sites on those. I love the fastbacks.. But imo the notches have an ever so slight edge because of their appeal from every possible angle of sight.

Spent time today pulling the seats and working on cleaning the tattered apolstery and tightening up and tweaking the slide mechanisms back into full service. Out if the two seats I had 3 trashed anchor posts (threads were a lost cause). I thought they would be pressed in, but wow couldn't budge them so drilled them out for new bolts. The pristine factory undercoating makes me very happy. Also started cleaning the dash and soft interior parts. I have to pop those door panels soon to clean up the window mechanisms... Walking on egg shells with everything so as to not break anything before I can do some reconditioning. Everything works and moves so nice in the current state, however.

Full reproduction service manual coming soon...

Having a blast... We've totally bonded.

 

[JAndrea]

383 block date stampings checked out to 1/27/1968. A833 that came with the car was dated 9/2/1970. I'm planning on going through that myself as well, with rebuild kit, parts, from Passon, and anybody else willing to help along the way.

 

[JAndrea]

BOOKS!!!

 

[cuda20]

Sweet looking notch.

 

[JAndrea]

Thanks man. Yours is badassery. What size tires do you have in back and front? ..Starting to get ideas about that as well.

Decided to go HP 383 rather than get into the whole 431 stroker etc. Gonna keep it as much of a stock looking engine as possible. I'm all about vintage... Within reason. Forged crank is currently getting welded and reground.

 

[skep419]

Looks like a solid start. Sweet car.

 

[cuda20]

295/55/15 on a 8 inch wheel 41/2 inch bs on the back. Fronts will depend on your choice of exhaust.

 

[JAndrea]

Thanks for the props and the tire info.

Reconditioned the seat belt webbing over the last week (scrub brush and warm soap and water... Then a little spray paint) and started breaking down the seat belt buckles today. I couldn't find any diffinative info on getting these apart so I carefully made my own way. I'll get some more pics as I go along but below are a few.

1. Take lots of pictures
2. Hold buckle with latch slot opening toward you and lever side of buckle facing up.
3. At this point, the splined pivot pin that needs to be removed is on the right side.
4. Give the base of the pin a small shot of WD-40
5. Push pin from other side of buckle to expose enough of a lip on the underside of the 'pry' side. Note the slot in the pivot. This is where the spring end sits. Next protect the finish as best you can (I used cardboard) and carefully pry a thin screwdriver, or mini finish-nail pry bar, under the splined pin and pry it upwards. Take your time, don't try to get it out all at once. Don't lose it when it pops out!
6. Once the pin comes out, take the rest of the pieces of the one buckle apart and try to get it all back together again so you know how that will go before you start taking them all apart.
7. Getting it back together was a little tricky until I found the key to getting the spring loaded correctly. I'll describe that later.

 

[cuda20]

Nicely done.

 

[4spdragtop]

Nice!