69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth

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Simple scrubbing with 0000 fine steel wool takes care of the minor rust. Painted all of the buckles etc with VHT Epoxy Paint. Not expecting it to hold up all that well but hopefully it will be ok. Only one of the webs/belts was fraying so that will be replaced. Otherwise they all cleaned up really nice with warm soapy water and a stiff brush.

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tore down the short 383 block all the way and found the #8 rod had spun and vaporized the main bearing, thus eating into the crank :( oh well... This is all part of the process. At least the crank was forged, so I was able to get it rewelded, reground to .010 under, and polished.

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Cam coming out.... Block heading off for a bath and magnaflux before any further investment.

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Picked up a set of #906 heads this weekend so I'll have these gone through. On a side note... There is a guy within a few miles of me selling a complete 1967 440 on Craigslist for $550... And you know that means #915 heads. I know enough to know he won't separate the heads from the motor ;) i'd love to buy the 440 but I already started investing in the 383, and for a few reasons, I'm sticking with it... but I thought I'd let you guys know.

440 Engine

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Started popping off the door panels tonight to eventually get at the window mechanisms to clean them up and lube them and bring them back to a level where I don't have to worry about busting anything during normal operation.

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Lubed up the interior window regulator mechanisms with a good cleaning then applied some synthetic caliper grease to the moving parts, tracks, rollers, etc. The rear was seized about half way down, but all are rolling like a dream now. Opted NOT to dismantle the regulator mechanisms for multiple reasons. Reconditioned the original door panels front and back as well.

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Engine block magnaflux came out 'all systems go'. Looks like I'll need at least a .040 cylinder overbore to clean them up. I'm thinking I may as well go to .060 out of the gate??

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Before and after on the rear trim... Various steel wools, various polishing compounds, and finally Mother's polish.

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Scored a sweet Hurst shifter and stick from a 1970 Cuda today... Craigslist and minutes from my house. A glorious feeling.

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All window mechanisms and door panels have gotten the once-over now. Everything rolling smooth and in great shape. Glass is all spotless. No surprises.

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Hurst shifter gone through... will be ordering some new shims, but all else seems to have minor wear from 'life' so I don't think I need to replace anything else.

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I like your approach to not necessarily getting it perfect, but getting it back on the road and driving it. That was my approach, but it seems like one thing leads to another. Anyway, it is a really nice car to start with. Keep us informed.

Search previous threads. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site.
 
g413 said:
I like your approach to not necessarily getting it perfect, but getting it back on the road and driving it. That was my approach, but it seems like one thing leads to another. Anyway, it is a really nice car to start with. Keep us informed.

Search previous threads. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site.
Click to expand...

Totally... perfection is overrated (for me anyway). I like the look of a workin' man's car, plus that's all i can afford. a hobby shouldn't sink a person. "one thing leads to another"... I've heard that a few times now. You definitely have to balance that. I'm contemplating spending the $ for an all new wiring harness, which would seem to be a very good foundational investment for the project.. .but not sure at this point. I have time to think about it.
 
New SpeedPro forged aluminum pistons, rings, and ARP CR bolts. Cyls were bored to .030 over on the 383. I'll be reconditioning the stock connecting rods.

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Today I rebuilt the Hurst shifter after purchasing just a few replacement parts. I got replacement shift levers, rods, and a mounting plate (w/hardware) from a couple of other FABO members as well.

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Trans breakdown (no info on previous operation of trans)... no broken needle bearings, no metal in the case, all seemed tight. Seemed to be normal wear on the leading edges of teeth. Besides a basic rebuild kit... Not exactly sure what I'm looking for as far as replacement of parts. If anybody has any advice on specifics it would be much appreciated. Otherwise I'll be doing more research and reaching out to the experts, etc...

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Engine block and heads (906) have come back from the machinist and I've been gathering parts all Winter and Spring. Just chased the threads (might do it one more time to be sure) and am preparing to wash the block and install the pistons.

Some general stuff...

Pistons: Speed Pro Forged Aluminum, stock rods

Heads: #906 iron, zero decked, competition valve job. Compression ratio will be 9.6:1.

Camshaft: Competition Cams 21-224-4 Xtreme Energy XE274H-1, 274/286 Advertised Duration, 230/236 Duration @ .050 inch, .488 inch/.491 inch Lift, 110 Lobe Separation

Carb: Used Holley AED 4750 HO-HP DP

Intake Manifold: Plan on picking up a Performer RPM

Rockers: Stock stamped

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Just read through your thread, you are making great progress. I bet that notch will be a hoot to drive with that 383 in it. I'll come on now and then and pester you to get to work!

Scott
 
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