Ok, I'm getting it there, I think these headers might work. I have to dig out my trans and pop that in to get the angle on the motor right, but I think I got it pretty close.
'69 Valiant 2DR Project
- Thread starter DNasty777
- Start date
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I welded the V-band flanges to the manifolds. I’m still a newbie when it comes to welding, especially the TIG process. Unfortunately one of the drivers side primaries cracked at the collector after welding. Time to hit flea-bay to get a replacement.
Now that I'm waiting on parts to fab up the hot side of the turbo, I decided I'd go back to work on the chassis stiffening. I got the passenger side frame connector fully welded up and the floor pan cut out for clearance. I also welded in the tubular lower core support that I bent up.
First time welding stainless, I think it turned out ok. Definitely going to need to invest in an argon purge setup as there was significant sugaring on the inside of the welds.
I have a couple days off next week, I’ll work on getting more of the turbo hot side done then. The kegger intake isn’t staying, just waiting on the LA intake jig then I’ll move to either a Victor EFI manifold or drill my rpm air gap for injectors, haven’t decided yet.
I have a couple days off next week, I’ll work on getting more of the turbo hot side done then. The kegger intake isn’t staying, just waiting on the LA intake jig then I’ll move to either a Victor EFI manifold or drill my rpm air gap for injectors, haven’t decided yet.
Some good progress! I don't think your welds look bad at all.
Got the engine and trans in yesterday, it was a bear to do it alone but I wasn't going to waste a day waiting for a spare set of hands. Now that everything is in I started working on the hot side finally. I'd like to get the turbo just above the frame rail, with the exhaust housing in line with the front of the head. That way I can fab a bracket to support the turbo off the head and not have to worry about putting in flex-couplers on the exhaust side.
Worked on the hot side until I ran out of argon. After that I designed and 3D printed an adapter to run the Jeep 4.0 cam sync sensor. I’ll get one turned out of aluminum next as the 3D print won’t hold up to under hood temps.
I’m going to rework the exhaust a little as I’m not happy how they’re sitting right now. There a little too close to where the rad/fans/shroud is going to be.
I also ordered injector bungs and a Chinese airgap intake to practice on, as I’d like to try and drill/weld for the injector bungs myself. They should be here Monday so I may be able to try that out next week.
I’m going to rework the exhaust a little as I’m not happy how they’re sitting right now. There a little too close to where the rad/fans/shroud is going to be.
I also ordered injector bungs and a Chinese airgap intake to practice on, as I’d like to try and drill/weld for the injector bungs myself. They should be here Monday so I may be able to try that out next week.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
had you considered making the pass' side downpipe 'u' bend nearer to the header so the driver's side pipe can be tucked back a lot closer to the motor for the rad'/fan clearance you need?
Yeah, I spent 8 hours at work today stewing over this setup and I don’t like it so I’m going to redo all the piping. After more research, I want to keep these runs as short as possible. The pass side will be shortened as much as possible and the driver side will be angle more towards the k-frame and dip under the pulley. I ordered a divided T4 flange so I no longer need to merge these two pipes before the turbo.
If you build the hot side out of 2 or 2.25” you’ll find it a lot easier to put together and you won’t be choking the turbo any. I built mine out of 2”.
I would but I've already spent too much on all the 2.5" stuff. Felt like there was a lot more room in the bay when it was just a slant 6, lol.
Weird how that works out, ain't it?
Radiator came in and decided to mock it up, the grille and valance is just zip-tied on for now. It’s a 28” rad and looks like it’ll fit perfect.
Also started redoing the hot side. I have a better plan going forward now.
Also started redoing the hot side. I have a better plan going forward now.
I'm sittin here tryin to figure out why you got the headers on backerds and it hits me......"turbo, dumbass". LOL
You're in good company! First thing my father said to me when he came over after the engine was in was "Good job, but I think you got it backwards!"
Got a little more done before work today.
I got the welding done on the passenger side, other than the wastegate. I hope to tackle the driver side soon.
Jeep 4.0 cam sync sensor adapter was finished today.
I got the drivers side tacked up today and started the welding. Hopefully I can complete the welding tomorrow and start on the wastegates.
Don’t mind the hole I blew in the first photo lol, I switched back to foot control and forgot to lift.
Don’t mind the hole I blew in the first photo lol, I switched back to foot control and forgot to lift.
Just read through the whole thread, lookin forward to seeing more updates! I’ve got a 67 Valiant 4 door that is one of the next in line. I always like the lines of the 67-69 valiant’s.
I got some more welding done yesterday. I have to get my saw blade sharpened and then I hope to be able to do the downpipe, which I’m thinking will probably exit the passenger fender.
I’m wondering about turbo oil feed though. I’m planning on running a T at the oil pressure sensor location to see the turbo. But I’m unsure if that’s actually a good place to get the oil from. The remote filter mount I’m planning on running has a 1/8npt tapped hole I could grab feed from instead of my current idea.
I’m wondering about turbo oil feed though. I’m planning on running a T at the oil pressure sensor location to see the turbo. But I’m unsure if that’s actually a good place to get the oil from. The remote filter mount I’m planning on running has a 1/8npt tapped hole I could grab feed from instead of my current idea.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i'd say the closer to the oil pump you can feed from the better.
I'll have to consult a diagram but I think the pressure sensor gallery should be one of the first areas the oil pumps to. Or at least in my mind that's how it should work.
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