70 dart 470 ci drag car build.

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This is what came with my Yukon gears, but should be the same across the board. Agree with 73smallblock.

IMG_3963.jpeg
 
73smallblock said:
By old, I a lot older than 69. I'm taking course spline axles and stuff. I can tell you that my d60 has .050 under the race and is set to .005 backlash but I have a spicer gear in it. Richmond usually wants a lot of backlash especially if it's a pro gear. I would put .040 in it and check it.
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That made it loose on the rear pinion bearing I think it's wobbly
 
MOPARMAGA said:
I might have to start over and bang the race out
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Yes that's where you put the shim for pinion depth. The smaller shims by the outer bearing are just to set the preload on the bearings. I wouldn't worry about them even being there right now. Just leave them out and keep bumping the nut just to get your desired drag. On a Dana 60 it should be 20-30 in/lbs of drag turning.

The reason I say just to leave the preload shims out for now is because you are not final assembling it at this point. You are probably going to have the pinion out a few more times just setting your depth. Once you get it figured out then you can figure out your preload shims.
 
73smallblock said:
Yes that's where you put the shim for pinion depth. The smaller shims by the outer bearing are just to set the preload on the bearings. I wouldn't worry about them even being there right now. Just leave them out and keep bumping the nut just to get your desired drag. On a Dana 60 it should be 20-30 in/lbs of drag turning.

The reason I say just to leave the preload shims out for now is because you are not final assembling it at this point. You are probably going to have the pinion out a few more times just setting your depth. Once you get it figured out then you can figure out your preload shims.
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Oh, I set my backlash and my pinion preload.
Assembled the new bearings behind the carrier bearings and all that.
I am going to need to think about this for a minute lol
 
It's not terrible to do. I did it 6 days a week for almost 15 years. Having the right tools and set-up bearings helped too.
 
73smallblock said:
It's not terrible to do. I did it 6 days a week for almost 15 years. Having the right tools and set-up bearings helped too.
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I did it all with set up bearings lol.
I thought it was correct until the contact pattern
 
You are not missing anything by not having a depth checker. You will tell more with the pattern. Hell, most of the time the etched number on the head of the pinion wasn't even close. Like impossible numbers that don't even come close to what it should be. Like .500 off.
 
I ran out of yellow stuff. Used anti seize.
Tell me what you think. I added .010 under the rear race

IMG_20240324_161441043_HDR.jpg
 
Looking better but I would try some more shim. It's a Richmond, if it doesn't knock (click) when you turn it, then your not to deep.
 
I've got a nice pattern now but unfortunately there's no back lash. I probably can't get these bearings off without ruining them
 
That's a copy of the one yukon sells. The Yukon one is like $600. I bought the one in the link I posted after leaving the place I used to work.
 
73smallblock said:
That's a copy of the one yukon sells. The Yukon one is like $600. I bought the one in the link I posted after leaving the place I used to work.
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Cool I probably need to own that as well.
Thanks for all your help today
 
No problem, that's how forums like this are supposed to be. If you weren't on the other side of the county I would help/lend you my tools. If you buy that and need help understanding how to use it, let me know.
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mopowers said:
I've never heard this. Do Richmond gears make a click sound with the pinion is too deep?
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All gears will when they are too deep. An old timer told me when he would set up a Richmond gear that he would make them knock and take out just enough shim so they didn't knock anymore and that's where he left them. He wouldn't worry about the pattern at all. He said the deeper you can make a Richmond the better they are. This is in an off-road application just to avoid any confusion.
 
73smallblock said:
All gears will when they are too deep. An old timer told me when he would set up a Richmond gear that he would make them knock and take out just enough shim so they didn't knock anymore and that's where he left them. He wouldn't worry about the pattern at all. He said the deeper you can make a Richmond the better they are. This is in an off-road application just to avoid any confusion.
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That's interesting. Thanks!
 
Okay I think I got it.
I added .050 shim behind pinion bearing race and sacrificed a bearing on the passenger side to add in additional .015 to give room for more depth.
Picture sucks but I think this is probably as good as it can get unless I got some other sized shims like some .005s.

IMG_20240324_190907499_HDR.jpg

Oh and 30 inch pounds on the preload.
I'll reclean all this **** at work tomorrow but I think it's okay now.
I will also run the pattern one more time with Yella grease to double check it.
Good news I probably got 2 miles out of 500 break in done lol
 
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MOPARMAGA said:
Okay I think I got it.
I added .050 shim behind pinion bearing race and sacrificed a bearing on the passenger side to add in additional .015 to give room for more depth.
Picture sucks but I think this is probably as good as it can get unless I got some other sized shims like some .005s.

View attachment 1716226579
Oh and 30 inch pounds on the preload.
I'll reclean all this **** at work tomorrow but I think it's okay now.
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Looking good! Now you know why the s60 with side adjusters is so darn popular. I have a case spreader which helps, yet it is still a PITA to load the carrier with shims in a stock D60. If you ever see one with a spun race you will be a believer in preload.
 
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