70 dart 470 ci drag car build.

-
ValiantS said:
So if you've 'corrected' the taper issues with that manifold the HP will go up. By the time you made that manifold look like it 'needs to' to be perfect, it won't look like the original manifold and it'll have about 50% of the original cast aluminum remaining FWIW. But there's still room on the table to grow with the M1tr likely in OTB form, I think I know of one. But too as I have said in the past and has been offered here, opening to a MW intake and the respective larger intake runner will increase the peak HP of course. I'd guess it'd loose some torq as well, not that this WILL slow the car down.
Click to expand...
Thanks Sean.
 
Put in a little extra time and decided I needed to chop a bit deeper, now I'm getting into positive taper, I'm not sure on the math but I might have made the runner .500 longer .
Left runner on top picture & right runner below.

IMG_20250320_170409283_HDR.jpg
IMG_20250320_170601097_HDR.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just a update in me decisions.
Hard blocking the block so it's coming apart, I need to try and get the surface rust out of the cooling passages. I'm guessing a few gallons of stank vinegar will do the trick, then off to work for a hot tanking. Put the crank back in and pour a side.
Bad news, I figured out how to afford a new milodon gear drive, so I have one coming.
While the block is bare I'll finish my porting.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Just a update in me decisions.
Hard blocking the block so it's coming apart, I need to try and get the surface rust out of the cooling passages. I'm guessing a few gallons of stank vinegar will do the trick, then off to work for a hot tanking. Put the crank back in and pour a side.
Bad news, I figured out how to afford a new milodon gear drive, so I have one coming.
While the block is bare I'll finish my porting.
Click to expand...
Stank vinegar. What's that?
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Just a update in me decisions.
Hard blocking the block so it's coming apart, I need to try and get the surface rust out of the cooling passages. I'm guessing a few gallons of stank vinegar will do the trick, then off to work for a hot tanking. Put the crank back in and pour a side.
Bad news, I figured out how to afford a new milodon gear drive, so I have one coming.
While the block is bare I'll finish my porting.
Click to expand...
Do you have torque plates, or maybe you can just clamp the heads down while the concrete sets up?
 
dusterbing the peace said:
Do you have torque plates, or maybe you can just clamp the heads down while the concrete sets up?
Click to expand...
I have a torque plate, I'll do one side let it set up for a couple days and switch over to the other side.
I'm hoping if I have the crank in and everything torqued as normal, the bore will only distort a few tenths or so.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Leave the crank out and torque the caps
Click to expand...
Im doing it with the bearings and crank installed as it will be in a running engine. You previously mentioned that the mainline won't be straight after doing a fill, I see this as a way to limit that.
I should also add measure the main line before and after.
 
Last edited:
Before I do the fill I will disassemble the short block & be bolting the heads and tunnel ram back on.
I need to weld the top onto the runners and make a weld that will be an inch deep that will help me get the taper into the runners, what I thought was the start of taper was a net of still negative. This tunnel ram is going to end up being a tribute to Darin Morgan's first intake he made, consisting of a epoxy outter layer.
It's the only way it will be good lol.
I'll have thousands of labor $$$$'s into it but that's how I can make it happen.
 
It would be fun if you could get ahold of another one of those intakes……one that’s untouched, or nearly untouched, and have a little shootout on the dyno.
 
PRH said:
It would be fun if you could get ahold of another one of those intakes……one that’s untouched, or nearly untouched, and have a little shootout on the dyno.
Click to expand...
I actually do have another one offenhauser version but it's a split 360 version.
I'll have to mill the flanges about .180 to get it to fit but I agree that would be fun & I might as well do it.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Can't forget, they sound good also.
Click to expand...


It better not make a sound. The good ones don’t and that’s a good one.

I’ve been running gear drives for decades and most don’t even know it. Mine fits under the cover. It’s quite so people assume it’s a chain.

They’ll know you have a GD because they can see the cover.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
It better not make a sound. The good ones don’t and that’s a good one.

I’ve been running gear drives for decades and most don’t even know it. Mine fits under the cover. It’s quite so people assume it’s a chain.

They’ll know you have a GD because they can see the cover.
Click to expand...
I'm sure it will make noise every one I've ever seen good or bad made some of a lot of noise.
Edit, a super comp demon I worked on back in 2000 had a brand new milodon in it and I was disappointed lol.
That car was very loud though.
 
Last edited:
Made some progress? Today, I tore down the short block & wasn't too happy about the bearings, #7 looked like it was going to take a ride on the journal pretty soon...so I'm glad I tore it down. Crank looks great still.
I'll check clearances again. These were king coated bearings # 7 had no spring to it, it just fell out.
Brand new sharpened tungsten got aluminum dipped right on it lol.
I also started welding the top onto the runners.
After I got 4 corners welded, after every weld cracked twice and then I got all 4 corners welded lol, I started filling. It's going to take a while, I need to get it 1.25 inches thick, that will probably blend up to the carb base but that's what needs to be done.
Cat pics too for Jeff and whoever likes cats.
IMG_20250329_140911995.jpg
IMG_20250329_150451926.jpg
IMG_20250329_180024205.jpg
IMG_20250329_180042131.jpg
IMG_20250329_180239559.jpg
IMG_20250329_184035332.jpg
 
Last edited:
MOPARMAGA said:
Made some progress? Today, I tore down the short block & wasn't too happy about the bearings, #7 looked like it was going to take a ride on the journal pretty soon...so I'm glad I tore it down. Crank looks great still.
I'll check clearances again. These were king coated bearings # 7 had no spring to it, it just fell out.
I also started welding the top onto the runners.
After I got 4 corners welded, after every weld cracked twice and then I got all 4 corners welded lol, I started filling. It's going to take a while, I need to get it 1.25 inches thick, that will probably blend up to the carb base but that's what needs to be done.
Cat pics too for Jeff and whoever likes cats.
View attachment 1716385743View attachment 1716385744View attachment 1716385745View attachment 1716385746View attachment 1716385747View attachment 1716385757
Click to expand...
Keep rockin on that manifold, gonna be killer!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top