'70 Duster Revival: Drag Racing Heart | Pro Touring Soul

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John completed the final assembly and then did a final check of the instrument panel to make sure everything would be "plug & play" when it came time to install it in the actual car. His bench test equipment actually fools the instrument panel into thinking it's in the car. It tests all the light functions: night driving panel lights, brake light, oil light, high beam, left & right signals, fuel, temp and amp gauges at low, mid and high scales.

With all the pictures and data John provided, I had every confidence in the world that everything would work as it should (or better) once back home. I was right.
 

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Looks great.

Now that you are driving it.....filling the gas tank. Is your fuel guage slow and steady....or sometimes a little erratic? A lot of us seem to have the same issue.....mostly due (IMO) to pos sending unit.

Love your input on your build.
 
Thank you Ddaddy & HemiDenny.

HemiDenny you're spot on with the quality level of the fuel sending units on the market today. I used this last summer to tweak and tune the car as much as possible in an attempt to eradicate any mechanical issues. A faulty PowerMaster alternator and VDO fuel sender unit proved to be the major pain points.

The gauge did read slow and steady at first but the sender eventually failed and left me in the lurch. Rather than remove the unit and send back for warranty right away, I kept driving the car – filling up before and after every major trip. The VDO fuel sender I used was part number 226-003. (73-10 Ohm) VDO does have a good return policy and I figured I could exchange it during the winter months. (Hopefully for a working piece)
 
I have another great vendor shout out I'd like to share.

Jeff Mawhiney @ Nu Plastic Restorations

If you’re looking to upgrade or restore your tired old steering column, heater box or your grille is in need of plastic repair - give Jeff a call.

At this point in time I was stuck at a cross roads between using a universal aftermarket column and restoring my original piece. The universal column would have been the cheapest route (my column was really rough) but I really wanted to keep the stock look and functionality of the original interior.

I met Jeff at the 2014 Mopars in the Park in Farmington, MN. I saw his tent and took a look at some of his beautiful finished products. We started talking about restoration services and what needed to be done to my column (The wiring was nearly disintegrated after 45 years of service.) I actually had the column in the truck that day so I brought it to him. He gave me a list of options I wanted for the restoration and put together a quote. I couldn't buy the parts and do it myself for the price he gave me so it was a done deal then and there.

Jeff took the column back to his business in Missouri and began the disassembly. (It was nice not having to pay shipping!) Like John, Jeff also provided emails with updates on the progress made. My deadline was 2 weeks because we needed to stay on track with the dash and wiring install. Jeff made sure that deadline was met.

When the piece arrived back at the shop - it looked absolutely wonderful. Everything was blasted, primed and painted. New internals and wiring were installed. It was a brand new column! I was so happy with the final piece that I referred Jeff to a local hot rod shop and now they send him their Mopar columns when they need quick, professional restoration work done.

It's amazing what great people you run into at a swap meet!

Jeff can be reached at 417.379.6224
 

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With the column and instrument panel back, I was now able to get them installed. The glove box, radio bezel and instrument panel went in first. Followed by the original AM radio behind the radio bezel. I polished the original chrome and used clear plastic cleaner (headlight polish) on the heater control buttons.

The instrument panel was the last piece to installed in the dash. An interior screw kit from Dante's Mopar Parts really made things simple. With the dash now complete the steering column was then mounted.

This Duster was originally a power steering car, but I wanted to free up as much power as possible so I opted for Mancini Racing's Power to Manual Steering Adapter. (PN# MRE8770) Install was relatively simple. At first I thought the column was short because it wouldn't reach the manual steering box, but it turns out these old columns actually slide a couple of inches in and out. After a phone call to Jeff, I was able to get everything connected as it should be.

*Note I do have the power steering pump from the March Performance Pulley setup for when my arms finally do grow tired - but after 1 summer I have to say it really wasn't that bad!
 

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Just a tidbit.....the shaft sliding is a function of the collapsible column.....a safety feature that works with the wire mesh portion of the outer column.
 
Just a tidbit.....the shaft sliding is a function of the collapsible column.....a safety feature that works with the wire mesh portion of the outer column.

Thanks for the tidbit HemiDenny. I'm not sure how effective this feature would have actually been in the event of a collision, but it is interesting to see how safety was becoming more of a concern in the engineering of these cars. It's a step up from a padded dash cover and seat belt!
 
With the wiring nearly complete, all the fuel lines mounted and the Fragola fittings connected it was finally time to make some noise.

The motor install went smoothly. Everything dropped nicely into the powder coated k-member. The header install was relatively painless as well. (The mock up earlier in the build helped us determine the paths of least resistance) With Holley bolted on and we were in business.

The radiator you see is a new lightweight aluminum unit that was custom built by PRC for the application. (Factory 22" width) I was very happy with the fit and finish of the final product. We made custom brackets and later added a custom shroud where (2) Spal 11” puller fans would mount.

Excitement and anticipation were through the roof as we awaited the first turn of the key. Enjoy!

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imkI72xRAL0"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imkI72xRAL0[/ame]
 

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As great as the factory gauges are, I felt the need for a little more detailed information on the running condition of the car – so a set of VDO analog gauges was purchased. (Tachometer, Oil Pressure, Water Temperature and Voltmeter) Because I was no longer using the bulky air conditioning/vent system, the bottom of the dash now provided a great mounting space. Not wanting the new gauges to be too noticeable I chose the smaller 2 1/16” diameter units. The new bezel was built from sheet aluminum by my friend Brandon. He’s a got a natural talent for fab work. We later painted the bezel black like the rest of the interior and then remounted it to the dash with the wiring routed and loomed behind the scenes.

Having an accurate reading on the vitals has proven to be a wise investment in peace of mind.
 

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The front fenders, hood and doors were now back from paint. Clear seam sealer was added to the inner fender and the area where the doors and hood mount. With a good set of shims, j bolts and fender washers we were then ready to begin aligning these panels. Another true test of patience and trial and error.

Getting the right gap between doors and the fenders was a little tedious but we had enough adjustment that no drastic measures had to be taken. The doors were mounted a little higher at the latch end to account for the added weight of the glass and regulators that would be installed later. FatMat was generously applied to the inside of the doors to help eliminate unwanted road noise.

The fiberglass hood was also a challenge to mount but we got a good final fit once the rubber stoppers and hood pin studs were properly set. The 4" tall Spectra air cleaner I planned to run was just a tad too tall for the given hood clearance. A Summit drop base filter pan resolved this issue and still allowed plenty of room for the throttle, choke and kick down linkage.

While not complete - seeing the body back together again was definitely a big win in our book. There was a finish line and it was now visible!
 

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This thread and car are so Awesome it helped inspire me to go out and Buy a Duster of my Own. killer car my Friend.
 
This thread and car are so Awesome it helped inspire me to go out and Buy a Duster of my Own. killer car my Friend.

That's about about as big a compliment as they come limegreen70! Thank you - really. Dusters are a beautiful yet under appreciated body style and I sincerely hope yours turns out exactly how you want it.
 
The boys at Outlaw Upholstery in Lakeville, MN were now done with the front buckets and rear bench seat. The old foam was in great shape so after new burlap was added to the bottom side, the new Legendary covers were fit and the original emblems pressed in. They did a great job and were very easy to work with. If you're in the area and looking to recover your seats, customize your trunk, interior or sound system display - give them a call. They were very reasonably priced compared to some of the other shops I received quotes from.

Contact Dustin or Willy @ (952) 797-6813

The carpet wasn't in the car at this point in time so as you can see, I got to add some new furniture to my bedroom. I think it tied everything together nicely!
 

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Using a special adhesive, we were able to cut and lay down the carpet in its final position. Unrolling the carpet and letting it set on its own for a few days before installation helped to ensure most of the creases were removed. There's some debate as to whether gluing carpet down is a good idea or not. After 1 summer of driving, I'm very thankful we did.

I ordered most of the interior components from Dante's Mopar Parts. (Another great vendor to the Mopar community) Everything was accounted for and arrived in a timely manner from the time of order. (A bulk discount also helped justify the strain on the UPS guy's back)

After the carpet was installed, I cut and installed a .032" chunk of sheet aluminum as the divider between the trunk and driver's compartment. With future plans to drag race I read up on the NHRA rule book and found this as a requirement. (.024" steel would have also worked) I'll probably never break any speed records but I do feel safer with a metal divider versus the factory cardboard piece.

Next in line were the door panels and the arm rests. The new pieces from Legendary looked great and when the tape was removed from the chrome the interior really began to take shape. Finally, the seats found their home inside the car.

I absolutely love having the new car smell in a classic ride!
 

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That is a bad-a$$ Duster my friend. You should be very proud of the workmanship:coffee2:

Dave,
 
Thanks you guys. It was a long process and I'm most proud about seeing it through from start to finish. There were days when I thought this build would never end. Charlie kept pushing me and I him.

When I bought the car, all it needed to get back on the road/track was a transmission seal. It could have stayed a primer black hack job - but there would have been no sense of adventure in that. :cheers:
 
While my focus was set on completing the interior, Chuck spent some much needed time on the grille. The original was actually in decent shape with only a couple minor cracks. After some industrial epoxy was applied everything was then sanded smooth. Chuck then shot the grille with the same satin black that would be used on the hood scoop.

It was also at this time that I began the task of reworking, buffing and polishing each piece of trim on the car. I spent days upon days sanding with different grades of paper to eliminate surface scratches. More time was spent on the buffing wheel with aggressive rogues followed by even more time spent on the polishing wheel. For pieces that were anodized - the finish was stripped, sanded and then polished. There were many nights where my eyeballs were the only way you could truly identify me! The bright work turned out beautifully - my clothes were another story.

To the men and women that professionally polish metal work for a living - my hat's off to you. You've earned every single dollar and then some! I don’t want to see another buffing wheel for a long, long time.
 

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With only 6 days before the wedding – we were in full thrash mode!

The interior was mostly complete, rear end and motor were set, electrical was done and so were the brakes. Thanks to some quick work at Master Transmission in Rosemount, MN – John had the TorqueFlite A727 back in fighting shape with all new heavy duty internals and a TF-2 shift kit from TransGo. A new custom 10” torque converter from Dynamic Converters arrived just in time for everything to go together at once.

The transmission was installed on a Tuesday and while the car sounded great with open headers… it was a little loud for street use. An emergency appointment was scheduled for Wednesday at Auto Max in Rosemount. A full exhaust system was needed and Marv was the guy to do it.

Saturday was coming quick and outside of the car, wedding details filled every other waking moment.

Here is the car the night before we trailed it to the exhaust shop.

[ame="https://youtu.be/IpNiMLCdyOg"]https://youtu.be/IpNiMLCdyOg[/ame]
 

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One nice build...congrats. my 70 duster stroker is sublime .Just love the high impact colors.Have fun.
 
sounds awesome. where did you hide you wires in the engine compartment?
 
One nice build...congrats. my 70 duster stroker is sublime .Just love the high impact colors.Have fun.

Thanks! Mother Mopar gave us some great flavors to choose from!

sounds awesome. where did you hide you wires in the engine compartment?

Thanks! The open headers were fun but deafening! The engine harness is a all routed through a single connector at the back of the firewall. If I wanted to pull the motor - I'll I'd do is unhook the connector, unbolt the tranny and drop the k member. The headlight and fan wiring is located in the upper part of the fender well.
 
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