'71 Demon Pro Street/Touring

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These are two of the nicest looking Dusters I have laid eyes on. Your wheel choice is similar and will look great. You will be one step better with the wider rears. I would consider keeping them chrome or polished. You could then experiment with black using Plasti-dip spray on. Sounds odd but it works and if you want a more durable permanent black that could be done later too. But I suspect you'll love them all shiny :)

I have an old set of 15" slotted mags that I will swap over to for trips to the track. The 18s with 4" BS and these with a 3" BS will center either one in the space.

For the 18s I could not pass up the eagle supercars for about $120.00 with shipping.

http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop....6&ranzahl=4&nichtweiter=1&pk_campaign=froogle
 

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Definately a sweet pair of Dusters! Each day I lean more towards fully polished. Good price on your tires!
 
Just went through this whole thread. I love your Demon. Yes wheels are killing me too. I bought some cheapo's just to finish my mock up while saving for the real deal.
 
Just went through this whole thread. I love your Demon. Yes wheels are killing me too. I bought some cheapo's just to finish my mock up while saving for the real deal.

Thanks John, I was just looking thru your thread, looks like you've got your hands full right now. Looking good :thumleft:
 
I think his thread should be renamed "This will blow your mind".
 
Yeah I really went a bit over the top. Sadly I'm thinking of going bigger in the rear now because of the front sitting as low as it does.
 
Awesome build Rodzilla !!! Very impressive !!!
Can't wait to hear how you like the altercation and streetlynx setup. How did the tti 1 7/8 headers fit with the altercation ? Lots of room for the steering shaft, starter ? You also mentioned to not have the rack installed when putting the motor and trans in correct ?
 
some cheap motivation here!

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Awesome build Rodzilla !!! Very impressive !!!
Can't wait to hear how you like the altercation and streetlynx setup. How did the tti 1 7/8 headers fit with the altercation ? Lots of room for the steering shaft, starter ? You also mentioned to not have the rack installed when putting the motor and trans in correct ?

Thank-you! TTI headers fit easily with alterktion, just wish I could have used my rear sump Canton road racing pan but headers fit to snug at rear. With the alterKation I can pull my engine with the headers still bolted up and the hydrobooster/master cylinder still in. Love it! Definitely put the rack in after the motor is in. Cheers

Forgot to mention that I have flaming river column but run through same location as factory, just changed hole size in bracket at the firewall, I have about 1/4" clearance to the steering rod that connects column to the rack. I'm using a MSD mini starter so no issues there either, but I think full size should be ok as well.
 
Thank-you! TTI headers fit easily with alterktion, just wish I could have used my rear sump Canton road racing pan but headers fit to snug at rear. With the alterKation I can pull my engine with the headers still bolted up and the hydrobooster/master cylinder still in. Love it! Definitely put the rack in after the motor is in. Cheers

Forgot to mention that I have flaming river column but run through same location as factory, just changed hole size in bracket at the firewall, I have about 1/4" clearance to the steering rod that connects column to the rack. I'm using a MSD mini starter so no issues there either, but I think full size should be ok as well.
Thanks for the info Rodzilla ! I am looking forward to installing my altercation front end. I have already done the rear street lynx last summer with a mini tub and frame connectors ,wilwood 12" disc's with nitto 325/45-17 s and what a difference !!! Anyway thanks again and keep up the awesome work.
 
Here are some pics of wheels and rubber. I'm still undecided about whether to have the center of the wheels done in satin(hotrod) black with a polished lip or just leave the whole wheel polished. Boze is sending paint samples and then I can see if their black matches my hood. I'm having all the center caps engraved, was thinking pentastars at first but now leaning towards the fratzog(not to many non-dodge people know what that is, could sell them in the future to some chebbie guy and have a good chuckle while doing so).
The rear wheels are 13"(12" across between the bead). Fronts are going to be 9". Exact backspacing to be determined in a week or two, but best guess for now is 6.5front and 8rear. I love the deep dish rear wheels to but I didn't narrow my rear axle, thinking maybe from time to time I could throw on a set of raylle wheels for a more stocker look.
As for lowering car down some more, not a problem, coilovers all around so ride height can be adjusted some more.

Wheels are BOZE G-Machine
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Fronts
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Rears
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Just so much money for wheels!!! haha My favorite wheel from them are the "Protouring" and then my favorite of all time are CCW Classics.
 
Just so much money for wheels!!! haha My favorite wheel from them are the "Protouring" and then my favorite of all time are CCW Classics.

Way too much $$$$, but will definitely change the look for the better. There are soooo many nice wheels out there it was hard to pick just one. I decided to go full polished on the wheels, and the fronts are 8" instead of 9".
 
Nice Sweptline. Should look good nice and low with the meaty tires. Looks like you won't be getting bored any time soon. :)
 
I get not wanting to thrash on a car you just spent years and thousands restoring. My friends Charger 500 saw a bit too much track pounding and started to twist,so he built another car strictly for the track;these unit body cars do bend if you pound em,so be sure to add in whatever reinforcements you deem necessary. For my Dart which most definitly will see track time,it will be frame connectors,roll cage,torque boxes.Should be able to stand the car on one end and drop it pretty hard without breaking it after those mods.Oh and also wil be modding the car to accept a glued in windshield. Believe it or not,this really helps too!
 
I get not wanting to thrash on a car you just spent years and thousands restoring. My friends Charger 500 saw a bit too much track pounding and started to twist,so he built another car strictly for the track;these unit body cars do bend if you pound em,so be sure to add in whatever reinforcements you deem necessary. For my Dart which most definitly will see track time,it will be frame connectors,roll cage,torque boxes.Should be able to stand the car on one end and drop it pretty hard without breaking it after those mods.Oh and also wil be modding the car to accept a glued in windshield. Believe it or not,this really helps too!

I did do subframe connectors and planned to do a cage as well, but decided I will just cruise and show it. Definately want to build a track only car sometime in the next couple years. My Fargo is my next project, should be a pretty easy one in comparison to the Demon :)
 
Test fit my new fan:
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Sweet car man, I'm debating doing my Dart in that color.

What fan are you running there? I'm looking for something right like that.

Edit, just saw that it was a flexalite (spelling? lol) You got the part number by chance?
 
Sweet car man, I'm debating doing my Dart in that color.

What fan are you running there? I'm looking for something right like that.

Edit, just saw that it was a flexalite (spelling? lol) You got the part number by chance?

I will try to find part number, with my 4 core I had to switch to mechanical fan untill I do some reworking of mounting points. Turned out to be a bit shy on room between rad and my March serpentine setup. I tried to run it as a pusher on front side of rad but it ran to hot. Ran a flexalite mechanical fan without shroud and had zero heating issues, but doesn't have the nice look of the electric fan.
 
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