71 Duster 360 turbo build

-
More pics

20241130_173233.jpg


20241130_173315.jpg
 
These look great. No issue with front tires hitting when turned in?
 
Matts440 said:
Numbers I found are QA1 10 450, so 450lb springs in the front and 12-130 in the rear
Click to expand...
I'm shocked they are compressed that much. I run a 450lb on my HDK and they aren't compressed nearly that much. However, mine are 12" springs. It almost looks like they would get into coil bind on a big bump.
 
racerjoe said:
I'm shocked they are compressed that much. I run a 450lb on my HDK and they aren't compressed nearly that much. However, mine are 12" springs. It almost looks like they would get into coil bind on a big bump.
Click to expand...
I avoid big bumps lol. Not sure, might be with all the twins and all the piping. Unless I read the number wrong was on the back side and using a mirror, hopefully not a 10-150.
 
Finally made it to the track. The car wouldn’t foot brake over 2500rpm after switching to hy-gard so no boost on launch. It left like a dog, but I had zero traction issues. 2nd pass of the night was the quickest, and the third was just barely shy of my 140mph goal.
I’m car 175
IMG_4372.jpeg


IMG_4334.jpeg


IMG_4338.jpeg
 
Wow it’s making way more power than the et would suggest. There’s a bunch more in it if you can get the short time figured out.
 
These are the two runs from the slips. I was doing my best to get the rpm’s up but it just wasn’t happening. On the 139 run I tried launch control and it just died. I have a new turbo converter from PTC that should solve that issue.




 
Big congratulations! 111MPH at the 8th?! You were flying man!
What PSI was this?
 
2.2 60’… get your launch figure out and your ET will improve (obviously)
Very impressive
 
Thanks! 15-16 psi

A looser converter is definitely needed to get my 60ft down. Not much I can do when it won’t leave over 2500 rpm! Calculator shows zero percent slip up top though so at least I can be sure the trans isn’t slipping
 
turbovan said:
Thanks! 15-16 psi

A looser converter is definitely needed to get my 60ft down. Not much I can do when it won’t leave over 2500 rpm! Calculator shows zero percent slip up top though so at least I can be sure the trans isn’t slipping
Click to expand...
Spray it with N2O. It’ll loosen the converter up.
:lol:
 
Pulled the trans to install a new torque converter, and look at the transmission internals. Glad I did. Looks like I was pretty close to a real failure. Everything else looks good so far. Clutches and steels show very little wear for all 500ish miles since it’s been back on the road. I think this may be my last rebuild before I have a professional take care of it.

IMG_4558.jpeg


IMG_4557.jpeg
 
Making a couple fuel system changes. My tank had a leak anytime it was over half full, and I had starvation issues anytime it was below 1/4 so that was getting old. I decided to run an in tank 340lph pump which will feed a surge tank containing two 044 style 380lph pumps. Not sure how much further these pumps will take me, but I am unfortunately close to being out of injector. I thought the ID1000’s would take me much further, but I’m seeing 90%+ duty cycle at 18psi boost. Base pressure at 60 so they should be around 1200cc’s. I’m hopeful that better fuel supply will grant me a little more room, but fuel pressure logs aren’t indicating an issue.

IMG_4560.jpeg


IMG_4561.jpeg
 
No one believes me when I say, “when you think you have enough fuel flow for the horsepower you want, DOUBLE IT!”
That’s good for injectors, pumps, lines, anything really regarding fuel flow.
 
TT5.9mag said:
No one believes me when I say, “when you think you have enough fuel flow for the horsepower you want, DOUBLE IT!”
That’s good for injectors, pumps, lines, anything really regarding fuel flow.
Click to expand...
Believe me I WANTED to setup my car that way, but I also wanted high quality injectors. $2500 for ID1700’s is a tough pill to swallow. I can also honestly say I did not realize I would need so much fuel system. I used fuel injector calculators that say what I have should support 1000hp, but that’s clearly not the case.

Right now I think my best bet is to dilute from e80 down to e60 to see how much room that gives me. I’m currently aiming for 25+ psi boost so that may still not be enough fuel. After that I can also increase my fuel base pressure to get 1400ish cc from these same injectors(I ran ID injectors at 90psi base on my wrx), but I’m not sure how far my pumps will take me. I can add a 3rd 380lph pump very easily(already have a spare), but at that point I’m running a total of 4 fuel pumps pulling 50ish amps. I think the battery can handle that for 9 seconds but I’m not sure. Bosch 220’s may be the easiest fix. We’ll see
 
Last edited:
I’ve used adjustable rising rate fuel regulators or FMU’s in the past on old turbo dodges with limited tuning options. A 2:1 rising rate regulator would be pretty cool.
 
turbovan said:
Believe me I WANTED to setup my car that way, but I also wanted high quality injectors. $2500 for ID1700’s is a tough pill to swallow. I can also honestly say I did not realize I would need so much fuel system. I used fuel injector calculators that say what I have should support 1000hp, but that’s clearly not the case.

Right now I think my best bet is to dilute from e80 down to e60 to see how much room that gives me. I’m currently aiming for 25+ psi boost so that may still not be enough fuel. After that I can also increase my fuel base pressure to get 1400ish cc from these same injectors(I ran ID injectors at 90psi base on my wrx), but I’m not sure how far my pumps will take me. I can add a 3rd 380lph pump very easily(already have a spare), but at that point I’m running a total of 4 fuel pumps pulling 50ish amps. I think the battery can handle that for 9 seconds but I’m not sure. Bosch 220’s may be the easiest fix. We’ll see
Click to expand...
I almost certainly would not go from e80 to e60 if you’re aiming for more boost. I’d rather up the base presssure more than loose the octane.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top